1984 Evinrude 90 hp V4 VRO No Spark

[Knouse9494]

I recently purchased a boat with this motor on it. It has sat for the last 3 years and was said to run before that. The motor looks to be in great shape. I am not getting spark at any of the cylinders. I have read a lot on the forums here about this issue and have started my process of elimination of the problem. When I first got the boat home and got a new battery it would not turn over at all. I found the inline 20 amp fuse was blown so I replaced that and it turned over fine. The fuse I bought at Autozone was slightly longer then the fuse that was in there and it does not fit in the boot very well. Could this have anything to do with me not getting any spark? My guess was no but I am trying to eliminate all possibilities on my hunt for the problem. As always any information is greatly appreciated.

 

[emdsapmgr]

Bombardier sells that shorter fuse. Most dealers stock it. Get a couple-if one blows, the engine won't crank-could leave you stranded. part number 510884. FYI, that engine has to crank at least 250 rpm's in order for the ignition system to develop enough voltage to fire the engine. If you still have no fire, you will want to check further. That engine has two identical power packs. It's possible that both have failed at the same time, but not likely. ditto with the 4 coils. So you'll want to check the stator and timer base first. You can find some excellent ignition troubleshooting info at this website: cdielectronics.com

 

[Knouse9494]

Thank you for the information. I have ordered the correct fuses and have done some more research on here. I have eliminated the kill switch and the rectifier as the problem. I guy I bought the boat from could not get it to turn over initially and then when I showed up to buy it he showed me a video of it turning over. I fuse was still blown when I got the boat so I am assuming he jumped the starter. I read in another thread that jumping the motor that way can fry power packs. Is that correct? I have ordered a power pack so I can test one that I know is good and go from there. I also read about the 250 rpms needed to fire this motor. I was not sure if my Walmart battery was cranking fast enough so I pulled the Interstate battery out of my Yukon and used that. It made a noticeable difference in how fast it cranked but still no spark. I will continue my hunt once I get my manual, power pack, and fuses. Thanks again.

 

[emdsapmgr]

From a purely statistical standpoint, the power pack is the highest ignition component failure item. However, all of the ignition parts for this engine are expensive, so some troubleshooting on your part can be cost effective. You may want to have a look at the ignition troubleshooting info at this website: cdielectronics.com They have some good techniques just for your engine.

 

[Knouse9494]

Ok, it has been awhile since I have had the time to get a DVA and do some tests. I checked both the stator and the timer bask wires and I do not get a reading at all. When I plug the stator and timer base back in and check the plug that comes from the coil to the plug I do get a reading. I thought that was odd. I am new at troubleshooting ignitions. Where do I go from here? Pull the flywheel? Thanks for the info, Josh

 

[emdsapmgr]

Unlikely both the stator and timer base are shot at the same time. Not impossible, but not likely. So, when cranking you should get some reading from the stator and timer base. The stator should output at least 150 volts and the timer base should output 0.6 volts. The troubleshooting diagram shows the leads you need to measure the cranking voltage on.

 

[Knouse9494]

I had the CDI troubleshooting page open while I was doing the testing. Non of the wires on either side gave me a reading. I can retest and see if I get anything. I am assuming I need to ground to the motor to get a reading. I am a little confused on the Wire and Read To on the troubleshooting guide. If I am still not getting a reading where should I go from there? Thanks again, Josh

 

[emdsapmgr]

When cranking, the two pins from your peak-reading voltmeter need to be plugged into various connectors in the main wiring harness. For instance, unplug the main wire from the stator. Look for a brown wire and a also a second wire which is brown, with a yellow tracer. put the pins from the tester into the holes for these wires. When cranking you should see between 150 and 400 volts. If under 150, the voltage is low, and the stator is condemned. On the timer base, you need to do 4 cranking tests. Unplug the timer base and look at the colored wires. You need to connect the two pins of that voltmeter across these 4 wire sets at the timer base connector: between the white wire to blue wire, between the white wire to green wire, between the white wire with black tracer to blue wire with white tracer, between the white wire with black tracer to green wire with white tracer. In all of these last 4 tests, you should see 0.6 volts betwen each pair when cranking. Are you using a special "peak-reading" voltmeter? A regular household voltmeter won't get a correct reading.

 

[Chinewalker]

First thing I would do would be to unplug the red plug and spin the motor over by rope or jumpers to eliminate anything in the control box as a cause.

 

[Knouse9494]

Sorry it has taken so long to get these tests done. I got a DVA and tested the stator and timer base and they tested fine. I also jumped the motor with cables and tried to disconnect the rectifier but still no spark. Where do I go from here? I bought a power pack and have changed the 3 I have around and nothing. I disconnected the oil injection on this when I first got it with a video on here. Is there anything that I could have done wrong to affect the ingnition? Thanks for the help.

 

[racerone]

I would take the starter apart for an inspection.--Ask how to do a simple ohm test when it is apart.--That would cost nothing to do !!

 

[Knouse9494]

Would the magnets that the CDI troubleshooting references be the problem even though I am getting good readings from the stator and timer base? If I am getting the required 250 cranking rpms would it be necessary to pull the starter?

 

[emdsapmgr]

1. So, you've confirmed that you have the minimum cranking voltage at the stator and the timer base. Next up is to test the output from the coils. Set your DVR to 500 volts. Put one lead to ground, the other to the coil (plugwire) output prong. Crank the engine. You should get voltage there also. If not, likely the pack is bad. 2. Try Chinewalker's test. Unplug the red plug from the control box-under the cowling. Jump start the starter with a set of automotive cables and a known strong battery. When cranking (at least 250 rpm's) see if you get any spark. If you do, it's possible there is a short in the control box/harness.

 

[Knouse9494]

What should the voltage reading be from the coil? With the battery cranking the voltage at the plug was 2.5 while jumping the motor with cables it was 29. Both tests were done with a battery jumper hooked up to the battery to ensure max cranking rpms