1984 Dixie ski boat floor restoration

ezmobee

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 26, 2007
Messages
23,767
Re: MDO VS marine plywood

Re: MDO VS marine plywood

I may catch flack for this but....if it was me, I'd just paint the undersides.

Also, I don't remember if you were going to be using poly or epoxy for your glassin' but just remember, don't ever use poly by itself. It's worse than worthless without glass. Epoxy by itself is fine. However, it ain't cheap which is why I'm saying I'd just paint the unders.
 

tfret

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Sep 6, 2006
Messages
469
Re: MDO VS marine plywood

Re: MDO VS marine plywood

I guess a good oil base paint is what you're thinking?
 

retiredfornow

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 9, 2011
Messages
355
Re: MDO VS marine plywood

Re: MDO VS marine plywood

MDO looks like Plyform that we used for forming concrete. Is that the same stuff, anyone know? That stuff lasts forever.
 

island mike

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 31, 2011
Messages
440
Re: MDO VS marine plywood

Re: MDO VS marine plywood

I guess a good oil base paint is what you're thinking?
Nope.
He means a ( two compound marine) paint.
P.s to answer your question,To my knowledge both sides are resin coated,Mind you only a couple of micron thin.
I had a huge aquarium made out of mdo (of course the front had glass in it) The thing with the resin coating.is that it is very,very thin.As long as you dont scratch it,Its sealed.
 

tfret

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Sep 6, 2006
Messages
469
Re: MDO VS marine plywood

Re: MDO VS marine plywood

No to be a nag or anything, but I just have to be sure about this. The paper on both sides is actually resin sealed?
 

Speakrdude

Ensign
Joined
Feb 25, 2004
Messages
942
Re: MDO VS marine plywood

Re: MDO VS marine plywood

I went to Home Depot and inquired about MDO plywood. They did not stock it anywhere in our district, (NW Arkansas). The guy called his districk mgr and asked about, (because he had never heard of it) and had this to report;
MDO is two outside layers of wood with several layers of basically the same thing as OSB in the middle, which, in his opinion, would not be the best thing for outdoor or marine use. It is kinda pricey too, just below marine grade. His recommendation was a hardwood plywood that they stock and a little less pricey. The hardwood layers would surely be more weather resistant than osb.
Are these guys not looking at the right product?
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,927
Re: MDO VS marine plywood

Re: MDO VS marine plywood

Yeah, your Home Depot is incorrect. You need to print out the PDF file I posted and take it to them. MDO/HDO plywood is and has been used in the marine industry for years. Made from 100% waterproof glue, laminates are practically void free, and NOT anywhere near being like OSB junk. No MDO is not the same as concrete forming material. Similar but the Concrete forming material is not 100% waterprooof, they recommend that the interior laminates NOT get wet and the lams are not void free thus the structural integrity is far less than the MDO. As far as painting the underside EZ is absolutely correct and you can use Good ole' rustoleum Industrial Oil Based Acrylic enamel to give it an extra layer of protection. You can add acrylic enamel hardener if you want, but I don't think it would be necessary except to aid in drying time. Yes both sides are resin sealed, but, I will say, that is NOT the best grade of MDO I've seen. What did you pay for it?
 

tfret

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Sep 6, 2006
Messages
469
Re: MDO VS marine plywood

Re: MDO VS marine plywood

That's about what I would expect from H.D. I bought my MDO at Ideal Building supply. The only thing that remotely resembles a lumber yard in our area. It cost $55 per sheet. They wanted $75 for the marine plywood which looked identical except the paper coating. Lowes in our area only had 3/8" MDO that I considered, but was adviced against here in this thread. Lowes wanted $85 for marine plywood. I feel good about the product I bought. I just want to preserve properly so it will last for many years, but without any over kill.
 

ezmobee

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 26, 2007
Messages
23,767
Re: MDO VS marine plywood

Re: MDO VS marine plywood

Yeah a good oil based would be great. Trusty Rusty or similar.
 

nphilbro

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Dec 19, 2011
Messages
304
Re: MDO VS marine plywood

Re: MDO VS marine plywood

This is a great thread as I will be doing my deck in the next couple of weeks too. I was at McClendon's Hardware in Sumner (Seattle guys know this place) and was pricing out materials and checking what was available. I saw their MDO and it looked like good quality material. Marine grade fir was $64 a sheet and the MDO was about $47 as I recall (can't remember the thickness).

Initially I was all gung ho about MDO but I'm not sure now that if I had to paint it with Rustolium and seal the sides with epoxy it would be faster or much less expensive than just glassing the entire topside of the deck with mat and poly over marine ply.

My current deck is marine grade fir fiberglassed topside only and is in pristine condition- I just had to cut it up to get at the hull. It's also incredibly strong.

Fiberglass mat is $33 for 3 sq yards. 1 gallon of resin is $55 and finish is $19/qt. at my local lumber yard.
 

Gun Dog

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Mar 22, 2011
Messages
265
Re: MDO VS marine plywood

Re: MDO VS marine plywood

I went to Home Depot and inquired about MDO plywood.

You can get your MDO at any sign shop. Lengths run from 4' to 12' and widths 4' - 5'.
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,927
Re: MDO VS marine plywood

Re: MDO VS marine plywood

This is a great thread as I will be doing my deck in the next couple of weeks too. I was at McClendon's Hardware in Sumner (Seattle guys know this place) and was pricing out materials and checking what was available. I saw their MDO and it looked like good quality material. Marine grade fir was $64 a sheet and the MDO was about $47 as I recall (can't remember the thickness).

Initially I was all gung ho about MDO but I'm not sure now that if I had to paint it with Rustolium and seal the sides with epoxy it would be faster or much less expensive than just glassing the entire topside of the deck with mat and poly over marine ply.

My current deck is marine grade fir fiberglassed topside only and is in pristine condition- I just had to cut it up to get at the hull. It's also incredibly strong.

Fiberglass mat is $33 for 3 sq yards. 1 gallon of resin is $55 and finish is $19/qt. at my local lumber yard.

Wow!!!!:eek: You need to to buy your glass supplies somewhere else. First off the resin sold at the lumber yard has wax in it and that's not a good thing, Typically 1.5oz mat is $3 to $4 per yard NOT $11. Gallon of Resin for $30. Not sure what "Finish" you are referring too. You should be able to glass the top side of a 16-20 ft craft with 2 layers of mat for appox. $150 bucks. And by the way, ALL plywood, Even marine Grade, should always be sealed...Both Sides. Believe it or not Marine Grade Will Rot!!!
 

tfret

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Sep 6, 2006
Messages
469
Preping stringers before installing new deck

Preping stringers before installing new deck

I'm currently in the process of making templates for my new deck. In the mean time I'm wondering how best to dress up my stringer tops before the new deck goes down. The stringers are in good condition but have lots of screw holes from the prior deck. I had to grind off several screws that were rusted and broke off when trying to back them out. I was thinking of just sanding the tops and down the sides about an inch, then coating them real well with expoxy resin. Is that all I need to do?
 

oops!

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Oct 18, 2007
Messages
12,932
Re: Preping stringers before installing new deck

Re: Preping stringers before installing new deck

hi bud...

what kind of stringers are we talking about here....wood ? glass?.

but either one....if they are in good shape.....(without seeing them) fill the holes from screws with 3m 5200.....and you are fine....

if you wish you can do a little rough and scuff on the stringers and epoxy them....(this is only a peace of mind duty)
 

tfret

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Sep 6, 2006
Messages
469
Re: Preping stringers before installing new deck

Re: Preping stringers before installing new deck

3M 5200 ok. And should I use that also to seal the new screw holes when I put the new deck on?
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,927
Re: Preping stringers before installing new deck

Re: Preping stringers before installing new deck

tfret,

You should keep all of your posts together in the same thread. It makes it very difficult for everyone to follow what you are doing when you have multiple threads on the same boat.
 

oops!

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Oct 18, 2007
Messages
12,932
Re: Preping stringers before installing new deck

Re: Preping stringers before installing new deck

yep.....lay down the deck.....pre drill the holes.....then fill the holes with 5200......then insert screw.....it will take 2x the labour.....but the deck will be protected.....that little trick will gain you 5 years deck life
 

tfret

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Sep 6, 2006
Messages
469
1984 Dixie ski boat floor restoration

DSC05713.jpgfloor 005.jpgboat floor 007.jpgboat floor 12.jpgboat floor 14.jpg

Well I'm well into my first floor job on the family boat we've owned for about 5 years now. Thank you for all of the already answered questions that I've recieved from several posts. It's been suggested I keep everything in one thread during this project so, here goes, my formal floor restoration thread has now begun! That may sound corny but for me this is a really big deal.
I've already removed all of the floor and old foam. The deck was probably 70% rotton, and the foam had about 1" of water in it at the rear of the boat, tappering down to about 1/4" of water in the front. About 25 garbage bags and many weeks with a full trash bin later, it's all gone.
A few pics for everyone to see: Our boat on the trailer during vacation last year, one of me in the back yard ripping the floor up, and a few of the interior with the floor gone, and the new belly fuel tank that I installed this past Spring.
Right now I'm making templates of the floor sections with card board. I've bought MDO panels to go back in. And I've cut the first panel to go into the front of the boat. My only question at this time concernes the deck penetration for the filler and vent hoses. My filler and vent are on the front port side. The hoses run under the bulk head and originally ran through a slot cut were the deck meets the hull. I believe this to be one area were water was getting below my deck. I'm interesting in opinions on how better to make this penetration, and how best to seal it. Right now I'm still looking to cut a slot, or maybe just a hole, and then try to seal it really well with expansion foam. Then paint the foam. Anyway, that's where I am at this point. Thanks in advance for all the expert council I'm sure to recieve on this project.
 

tfret

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Sep 6, 2006
Messages
469
Re: 1984 Dixie ski boat floor restoration

Ok, I just made my first goof cutting the front floor panel that will fit under the front seats and bulk head. I cut the sides on a bevel to fit the slope of the hull but I cut the angle up to my pattern line, not away from the line, resulting in a gap on both sides that will be a 1/2" wide or better. Should I cut a filler peice for each side and epoxy together, or just fill this gap with P.B.? Or could I just allow the foam to fill this gap and glass over it? Please advise.
 
Top