1983 Monark 16/52 rebuild flooring question

[Douglasdzaster]

Hello everyone, I’ve been working on my jon boat off and on . I’ll do a part then fish a while.
This ones had me off the water for a few months.
I removed the old plywood and metal flooring and found pitting and corrosion. The way the flooring was put together it held moisture all the time. The boat wears a cover when parked which keeps it dry. But I found a lot of moisture between the metal sheets and plywood that was in it.
I spent a month off and on completely sanding and stripping down to bare aluminum. Then I started the abatement. I moved all the corrosion from every pit. Some with a Dremel and magnifying glass. Gave it a good acid wash and neutralized. Then applied aluminum polish instead of painting. Waited a few months checking periodically and it stayed shiny and new looking, all the pits had no corrosion returned.
I’m telling you all this so you’ll understand why I’m doing the flooring this way.
I have used a primer/ sealer for aluminum (after stripping the polish) then applied truck bed coating to help with durability.
Tomorrow morning I’ll cut closed cell foam board to fit between the ribs. Then cut 15/16” plywood to fit and give it a good does of marine penetrating epoxy. The entire flooring system will be removable for cleaning and keeping things dry if I get caught in the rain.
I’m using riv nuts to attach the plywood. I have marine carpet that I want to either use snaps or Velcro on. Which brings me to needing some input please.
Have any of y’all ever attached carpet this way? I’m trying to figure out which would be best the snaps or Velcro and do I need to tuck the carpet underneath the plywood.
I want to be able to take the entire flooring apart when I feel the need. Also my plywood is going to last longer than the carpet it’ll be easier to just remove and dispose of then do something else.
Thanks for reading my story. This is just one of many things I’m doing until I have it rebuilt the way I want it.
Any input is appreciated.
Here is some before and after pictures.

 

[Baylinerchuck]

I really don’t like the idea of Velcro for the carpet. All of the removable carpet I’ve seen has been snap in. You would have to use a lot of Velcro to match the holding power of snaps.

 

[Douglasdzaster]

I really don’t like the idea of Velcro for the carpet. All of the removable carpet I’ve seen has been snap in. You would have to use a lot of Velcro to match the holding power of snaps.

Thank you so much for your input. I have the snaps already but it’s my first time using any. Fear of uncharted territory. Lol
What made me start thinking Velcro I ran across some in my shop. The hook and loop all weather adhesive etc. I had used it on the seats I built on the rear bench which is now storage underneath. I put one piece on each corner of the three seats a year ago and I still have to get a good grip to pull them open.
What’s your opinion on should I wrap the carpet and snap underneath or im thinking just snaps around the edges on top of the plywood. The plywood is going to be sealed with epoxy especially the edges.
You’re correct it would take more than a few pieces. I’d have to run strips and that’ll get expensive.
Thanks again for replying.

 

[Baylinerchuck]

Thank you so much for your input. I have the snaps already but it’s my first time using any. Fear of uncharted territory. Lol
What made me start thinking Velcro I ran across some in my shop. The hook and loop all weather adhesive etc. I had used it on the seats I built on the rear bench which is now storage underneath. I put one piece on each corner of the three seats a year ago and I still have to get a good grip to pull them open.
What’s your opinion on should I wrap the carpet and snap underneath or im thinking just snaps around the edges on top of the plywood. The plywood is going to be sealed with epoxy especially the edges.
You’re correct it would take more than a few pieces. I’d have to run strips and that’ll get expensive.
Thanks again for replying.

Normally the carpet would be cut to size, then the edges are bound. Good Marine carpet should already have a rubberized bottom which is heavier than an outdoor type carpet. I’m not sure if it would need anything else on the bottom since it’s removable such as an additional coating. Others may have some input. The edges, however, will absolutely need to be bound. A carpet store should be able to help you get this done unless you have an industrial sewing machine.

 

[Douglasdzaster]

Normally the carpet would be cut to size, then the edges are bound. Good Marine carpet should already have a rubberized bottom which is heavier than an outdoor type carpet. I’m not sure if it would need anything else on the bottom since it’s removable such as an additional coating. Others may have some input. The edges, however, will absolutely need to be bound. A carpet store should be able to help you get this done unless you have an industrial sewing machine.

Thanks for your reply. The carpet is in a roll and is marine carpet with the rubber backing. I’ve been trying to find same kind of trim or edging I could adhere to the edges. I didn’t think about having it sewn.
Even with the rubber backing it’s pretty thin. Probably why I got such a good deal. I think when it wears out I’m going with vinyl. I found a website where it’s reasonable Nautolex is the brand and it’s half the price of Amazon.

 

[airshot]

You can buy pieces of trim in all different shapes and sizes, mabey a U shaped piece to slip over the edges of the plywood to hold the carpet in place ?? Just so you know...velcro comes in different grades of holding power. I use commercial grade, heavy duty to hold my winter enclosure onto my Side x side utility machine for plowing snow in the winter. Yep just 2" wide velcro, hasnt come off at speeds of 40 mph !!!
A piece of trim on the edge ofbyour pltwood/ carpet floor woukd give it a finnished look....just a thought....

 

[Douglasdzaster]

You can buy pieces of trim in all different shapes and sizes, mabey a U shaped piece to slip over the edges of the plywood to hold the carpet in place ?? Just so you know...velcro comes in different grades of holding power. I use commercial grade, heavy duty to hold my winter enclosure onto my Side x side utility machine for plowing snow in the winter. Yep just 2" wide velcro, hasnt come off at speeds of 40 mph !!!
A piece of trim on the edge ofbyour pltwood/ carpet floor woukd give it a finnished look....just a thought....

Hey thanks. I’m definitely wanting a finished look. After the hours I put into abatement of the corrosion I’m building the floor so I can completely take it apart to keep everything dry and clean. I’m connecting the plywood to the ribs with riv nuts. I have the snaps for the carpet already but need to make up my mind soon Incase I want to send them back. I used the Alpha lock Velcro on my rear seats and it’s strong. My concern would I have to Velcro the entire edge(expensive) or will spacing it out work?

 

[Douglasdzaster]

Hello,
I need some of your wisdom and advice with my first aluminum boat.
I have a 1982 Monark 16/52. I brought the motor back to life and have really been enjoying the boat. I noticed a little water the other day and decided to remove the floor ( that the boat came with) and check it out. The floor has good plywood on the boat then it’s topped with tin or aluminum (old signs) and that’s covered with a none slip material that’s holding up well. Had to laugh when I seen the signs though.
Found a small leak on one of the boats dinged spots no big deal.
I’m more concerned about when I removed the floor some of the cross members underneath are pitting. What can I do to repair and stop it from getting worse?
Also when I put the floor back what screws should I use. Several of the old ones broke off when removed. They are all corroded. I want to replace them with something that won’t react badly with the aluminum. Or can I coat some stainless screws with something?
Y’all’s help is greatly appreciated. I want to get back on the water

You found my first post when my nightmare began. I found out the plywood was treated and the signs and plywood together were keeping moister from escaping. As you can tell I’ve ended up completely redoing everything. With the hard part behind me my biggest enemy is the weather and timing since I’m working outside.
I don’t know if you’ve fallowed the thread or not but I’m going with rivnuts and plywood for the entire floor with foam underneath between the ribs. This time anyway so I’m still open to any advice or ideas. I’m already planning as soon as this carpet wears out I’m going back with vinyl. Lol

 

[Douglasdzaster]

I finally had the weather and time today to finish cutting and fitting the plywood. I learned nothing worked the same way twice when working on a 1983. I wanted a tight fit so I had to cut three pieces for the 52” wide floor. 54” on top of the ribs. First thing I did was attempt the front piece which I had to cut down as it narrowed a couple of inches then cut around the ribs. Sounded simple. I ruined a sheet of plywood by drawing a diagram and taking measurements and doing all the cutting. WRONG! I’m no carpenter to begin with. I’d rather get my wrenches out and go through the motor. But I’ve already done that part. I figured out my old boat isn’t exactly the same on both sides. So I started over with the back piece. Cut it dropped it in and started fitting the rib cuts one at the time. By the time I got back to the front I had it completely cut out and dropped in before I knew it.
I put each piece in the shop this evening feeling better and I’m ready to hit them with the sander so I can seal them with the penetrating epoxy I have. Then sand the top and snap on the carpet and install the riv nuts.
I’m going to need some anchor points on the floor for trolling motor battery, fuel tank straps etc. I’m looking for ideas for fastening systems that would work in the 15/32” plywood. Riv nuts won’t work. I’ve looked at threaded inserts but haven’t found any stainless that’ll work in soft wood.
When I back the boat in and park it I completely strip it down. I remove everything except the electronics bracket and the 40hp motor (which I have a lock bar on). Unfortunately our once safe and peaceful little subdivision forces me to keep everything under lock and key.
I appreciate any ideas while I’m searching.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Boats are not symmetrical

Make paper or cardboard templates

There are 6-prong 1/4-20 T-nuts in 316 stainless that work well in soft wood and PVC. Your local Fastenal can get them have them contact the Clearwater Florida store if they have any questions

 

[Douglasdzaster]

Boats are not symmetrical

Make paper or cardboard templates

There are 6-prong 1/4-20 T-nuts in 316 stainless that work well in soft wood and PVC. Your local Fastenal can get them have them contact the Clearwater Florida store if they have any questions

Thank you for the information. I was trying to get some big pieces of cardboard from where my wife works but there was no telling when something would ship in with it. I’ll definitely start looking for material for templates ahead of time on my next project. I’m no carpenter and was trying to find the most simple way . This is my first a boat and first project boat. I’ve always said I’m not good with a saw I cut a board three times and it was still to short. Lol
I’m more comfortable with my wrenches in my hand. That’s why I tackled the motor first when I first got the boat. It had definitely not been well maintained.
Ill check into those 6 prong T-nuts. The closest Fastenall is 45 miles away in Austin. I miss not having one around.
Thanks again.
EDIT: You sound like you know your fasteners. My boat will never see saltwater. Is the 316 stainless best for freshwater or will 304 suffice? Just thought I’d ask. Thanks

 

[Douglasdzaster]

Thank you for the information. I was trying to get some big pieces of cardboard from where my wife works but there was no telling when something would ship in with it. I’ll definitely start looking for material for templates ahead of time on my next project. I’m no carpenter and was trying to find the most simple way . This is my first a boat and first project boat. I’ve always said I’m not good with a saw I cut a board three times and it was still to short. Lol
I’m more comfortable with my wrenches in my hand. That’s why I tackled the motor first when I first got the boat. It had definitely not been well maintained.
Ill check into those 6 prong T-nuts. The closest Fastenall is 45 miles away in Austin. I miss not having one around.
Thanks again.
EDIT: You sound like you know your fasteners. My boat will never see saltwater. Is the 316 stainless best for freshwater or will 304 suffice? Just thought I’d ask. Thanks

I found 316 stainless steel T-nuts. Change of plans now. Instead of using Riv nuts and drilling any holes in the ribs I found some stainless steel mending plates to tie the three sections of flooring together using T- nuts for this also. Now I’ll be able to cut the carpet in one piece instead of three and snap it in. Still being able to disassemble the entire floor when I want too.
Thanks again for your help.

 

[Douglasdzaster]

The mending plates and T- nuts are ordered. When they get here I’ll do a mock up of the floor so I can drill all the holes in the plywood and then do the epoxy. I’m also going to be using some pieces of aluminum angle to hold down the floor. These will be fastened with rivnuts. I’ll also be using rivnuts on some other things like rod holders I use for trolling and drifting.
I have aluminum rivnut and screws but would rather use stainless steel.
I did some research and it seems the aluminum rivnuts and aluminum screws have failed. This was a thread with several people that had been using rivnuts for years. The ones that fish freshwater only use stainless and say they’ve had no trouble. Some of the saltwater fishermen use aluminum rivnuts with stainless screws and anti sees while removing them from time to time. Which I’m only using rivnuts on removable items. I trust stainless steel more as far as my big rod holders I sometimes drift with 4 rods in one.
Since my boat will never see saltwater would stainless be safe as far as corrosion? I even thought I’d use some 5200 when installing the stainless rivnuts as a barrier.