1983 Invader Floor Repair Support Needed

[Rickmerrill]

My WAG is that they may be used for other engines they put in the boat. I see what you mean about there being no connections between the engine and anything else.

 

[PitaBoat22]

Completed the seat removal today and got my first taste of foam removal. Not too bad; however, I am anticipating a much more challenging job when I can get to the removal of the foam that is under the deck. I drilled a couple of exploratory holes in the deck today and found very wet foam underneath. Just returned from Home Depot with my goggles and some new ear plugs….already have masks….so I should be all set to dig into the deck tomorrow.

Another video update is also now posted:https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCNf...GB0AlkTszgdXGg

 

[Woodonglass]

I STRONGLY recommend a Half Face Respirator with Full Fledged Filters and NOT the paper filter masks. The Stuff you're going to be getting into is REALLY nasty stuff and you only get ONE set of lungs. TRUST me on this one!!!! It'll be one of the Best investments you'll ever make. This is the best and when you get into the eventual Grinding it's almost mandatory!!!

If not this one then at the very least this one...

 

[PitaBoat22]

First thing tomorrow morning, Woodenglass. Thanks for the strong recommendation.

 

[Woodonglass]

A Sawzall, or just a plain old hand saw or Holesaw is a good tool for getting out wet foam. Believe it or not so is a Spade Shovel. Just be careful applying to much prying pressure against the hull. There's NO real easy method. It's generally a PITA to remove. Nasty Stuff!!! Sometimes, but rarely, it will come out in big chunks. Maybe you'll be one of the lucky ones!!!!:happy:

 

[Rickmerrill]

I am a big proponent of the full face mask and paid just under $80 on line. No fogging issues and if you are going to spray and work in VOC's your eyes are great at absorbing bad stuff. I got 90% of the foam out with a spade shovel. Some people recommend a wire brush on a grinder and use the vac to suck it all up - did that in a few tight spots and it works great. Others used drywall saws. Try a few methods and see which you like best.

 

[PitaBoat22]

Thanks guys. Feel a bit like a dark-ages warrior preparing for battle and having a variety of weapons to choose from - any of which will do the job - but either way, the job is going to be messy.

Picked up a 3M Professional Multi-Purpose Respirator (and a set of replacement cartridges) and a pair of 3M Professional Chemical Splash/Impact goggles. Also picked up a heavy duty coverall with a hood and a solid pair of rubberized gloves. I am as concerned with getting fiberglass on my skin as I am with getting the fiberglass, resin, etc in my eyes and lungs. When all is said and done, I'm willing to give up some time, money and maybe a droplet or two of blood to get this job done - but not my eyes, ears, lungs and skin. Gonna need those things for a long time after this job is complete.

 

[Woodonglass]

When you start grinding and suiting up with the tyvek suit here's a tip. Pat your self down with Baby Powder. It'll seal your skin pores and keep those nasty miniscule fiberglasss particles from penetrating and making you itch like crazy. Added benefit is your wife will think you smell good too!!!

 

[Rickmerrill]

I think Wood, and many others, recommend you tape over the air holes in the goggles. Once you start grinding that dust will find your eyes.

 

[PitaBoat22]

Thanks, Rickmerrill. That makes sense. I thought about just placing a clear plastic bag over my head while doing that grinding work….but I seem to recall my mother telling me to never do that .

I've posted another video update (https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCNf...GB0AlkTszgdXGg )and I have a question. I have been able to cut the top layer of glass pretty close to where it meets the hull along the sides. How much of this top layer of glass do I have to remove? All the way to the sides of the boat or just enough so that I can grind it down so there is a nice smooth transition from the top layer to the hull? I hope that makes sense. Here is a pic of what I'm looking at (I also talk about it in the most recent video update).



And here's a pic of where I'm at today...

 

[Woodonglass]

Very nice progress. On the sides you're spot on..just grind the glass to good fresh glass so the new glass will adhere well and you're good to go. When you make your bulkhead drains you can use pvc and cut em flush with the bulkies!!!

 

[Rickmerrill]

Just a nice transition and rough and scuff the top where you'll be laying glass. I believe 9" if you follow Woods instructions.

 

[PitaBoat22]

Could use some expert advice re: the bow area and then the stern area. Lets go with the stern first. Please see the pic below. As you can see, there is a triangular vertical piece of wood that looks to be attached to the transom and then also sitting next to another piece of wood that is lying on top of the deck and the rear-most part of the stringer. What is your advice here? Take out the triangular piece? Just the rectangular piece it is next to? So far, the triangular piece and the transom look ok. How can I check this without tearing into them?



Ok, now up to the bow. I can't imagine a way to get the old stringers, the forward bulkhead and the decking completely out and then the new ones in - not to mention getting the glass on top of the new deck - without cutting out the glass floor of the bow sitting area. My concern is whether this is serving as a support for the rest of the dash area (i.e., the steering column area on the right and the jockeybox area on the left. Here area couple of pics. Any advice on this one?

 

[Woodonglass]

I think it's time to drill some core samples. Use a drill and a 3/8" drill bit. Use some masking tape to mark the bit @ 1" depth drill into your transom at various places down low and across it's width and check the shavings. They should be light in color and dry. If they are dark and damp then your transom is wet and will need to be replaced. The triangular pieces I suspect are "Knee Braces" for the transom You should core sample them as well. As for the bow area it's either cut away the deck to gain access below or remove the entire cap. There's just no other way that I know of.

 

[Rickmerrill]

Up front the walkway does support the dash area but nothing a couple of 1 x 2's can't support. It will flop around but not come crashing down without any support. Do you have access holes under the seat cushions up front?

 

[PitaBoat22]

Yes - I do have access holes up front. You can see them in the video update I posted today on YouTube.

 

[PitaBoat22]

How involved is the process of removing the cap?

 

[Rickmerrill]

I didn't see a link to the newest video but followed the last link to watch it. Never pulled a cap but my understanding is disconnect anything between hull and cap, pull rub rail insert, remove a lot of screws or rivets, remove rail, lift off cap. There may be some flexible caulking to cut thru or a slim chance they are glassed together. You can probably find a strategic place from inside to check what's in the gap. But don't decide yet, check that transom first, if it's bad (hope not) you'll know what needs to be done next.

Hey, don't worry about spending more $ on tools than product, the resin will take care of that!

On the dremel tool consider an oscillating multi-tool. The dremels don't seem to fare so well in the abrasive environment (motor burns up) and the oscillating tool cuts fiberglass pretty efficiently without a lot of dust using a metal blade - it's good for other things too like cutting off nibs in PB and glass sticking out above stringers. I have a rotozip (good for burning up cutters), a small dremel and a cheap multitool from HF. If the multitool will get to everywhere you need it to it would be my second weapon of choice after a saws-all.

 

[PitaBoat22]

Ok - here is one of the core samples. The sample on the left is from some wood that I know is good. The sample on the right is from one of the stringers and it is definitely rotten. The sample in the middle is from the lowest point on the transom. I have also provided individual pics of each sample for comparison. Could use some thoughts on this.

Good on left…..Rotten on right….Transom core sample in the middle


Good


Transom


Rotten

 

[PitaBoat22]

Ooops….You'll see what I mean when you view my video update from today (https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCNf...GB0AlkTszgdXGg). It's uploading as I type this. Hopefully this oops will be an easy fix. Aside from that, I will be moving on to getting all of the foam out….but for now it's off to a Labor Day BBQ!