1983 Invader Floor Repair Support Needed - Take 2

[Rickmerrill]

Pita, be glad to email it to you. I wasn't able to download to my ipad either.

 

[Woodonglass]

Yeah, Sorry about the Download. Mega Does NOT Play well with APPLE!!! Sooo,,, I'll post the List here...

WOG’s Suggested Materials List for Total Restore of a 16-18’ 3 - Stringer Boat.

It's impossible to give an exact "Quote" of everything you'll need but this list will get you "Started" and from there, after you've done some "Glassin" you should have a good idea of what you'll need to "Finish-UP". This is MY guess-ti-mate and based on your skill level and how you do things your USAGE amounts WILL vary.

Here's the Starting List.



PPE

Respirator (Full Face Preferred $100) if not then double filtered 1/2 face and Goggles with vents taped over.
Latex Gloves (1 – 2 Box(s))
Leather Gloves 1 Pair
Full cover Hooded Tyvek suit. (Rubber Band or Tape the Wrists and Ankles, wet Towel around your neck)
Talcum Powder (coat yourself TOTALLY with talcum powder prior to every grinding Session. USE A LOT, It REALLY helps keep the ITCH off!!!!)

Demo Equipment

Prybars, Hammers, chisels, Putty Knives
Flat tipped shovel to remove foam, Old Carpenters Saw (The Old Fox Hole Army Surplus Shovels work well)
Circular Saw
Sawzall
Multi-Function Tool (Great for sawing close spots on decks and stringers)
Dremel Tool
Router
Drill
Random Orbit Sander
Rasps, Files
4 1/2" Grinder with Backup Pad and 24 grit resin coated sanding discs
Masking Tape
Shop Vac for dust control or Dust Collector if you're fortunate enough to have one. It's good to create a Plastic Tent over the boat to contain the dust. There WILL be a LOT of it....A LOT!!!!

Glassing and Wood Products

3-4 sheets 3/4" Arauco Ext. Grade Plywood or MDO, OR ACX, OR UnderLayment, OR Marine Grade)
(Possibly some ½” and ¼” for side panels and seat bases when and where needed”

15 -20 Gallons 435 Polyester Resin
10 qts Cabosil
1 lbs 1/4" chopped strand fibers
25 yds 1.5 oz CSM
15 yds 1708 Biaxial Cloth
2 dozen 1 qt plastic mixing buckets and stir sticks
1 - 1/2" x 5" Fiberglass "Bubble" roller
2 dozen Short nap 6" nylon roller covers and trays
2 dozen 3" Chip Brushes (cut ½ the length of the bristles off)

 

[PitaBoat22]

Thank you, Wood. I was able to open it on my iPhone while I was at Fiberglass Supply in Burlington yesterday. Believe I have everything I need now. The guys at Fiberglass Supply were great. The three guys that were in the shop were BUSY given their entire sales staff fell I'll after attending the Wooden Boat Festival in Port Townsend.

 

[Woodonglass]

Glad you made the connecton wit Both the Phone AND the Glass Guys!!! Thats Sucks that everyone got sick!!! You'll be getting all your stuff and on the road to putting her back together again in no Time!!!

 

[PitaBoat22]

What do I need to keep in mind in terms of temperature when working with the poly resin?

 

[Rickmerrill]

60 degrees is the lower limit while it is curing. You can tent an area to concentrate the heat. It's flammable so use caution. Halogen lights or radiant heat is safer than open flame heat sources.

 

[Woodonglass]

Poly fumes are flammable but...I would take a High concentration of them in a tightly enclosed space for them to become combustible. Having said that It's always better to err on the safe side. When glassing in cold temps the key is to have the resin and substrate both at temps above 60 degrees during the lay up process and the first hour of cure. Once the resin "Kicks Off" all that's really required is that you don't allow the layup to get to a hard freeze for the next 24-36 hours. The exothermic curing process of the resin will continue to molecularly cure the resin once it's no longer in a liquid state. As stated "Tenting" the area being glassed and then using flameless heat i.e. a Bank of Halogen lights to maintain the temps is all that's required. You can use any kind of heat to get the temps up above 60 degrees then shut off the flames and use the lights under the tent to maintain them for the required hour of initial cure time. The Great and Mighty OOPS used to Glass outside Up in Canada in temps hovering around 0 Celcius using a Torpedo Heater and a tarp to heat the boat surface up to around 80 degrees. He'd mix his resin inside his shop and then run out and get under the tarp and do his layup and shut the heater off and turn on the lights for an hour then turn the heater back on. He said he never had a failure with any of those layups. It's a hassle but it can be done, and done successfully.

 

[PitaBoat22]

My favorite sentence in your reply, Wood: "The exothermic curing process of the resin will continue to molecularly cure the resin once it's no longer in a liquid state".

Ok, this all makes sense. I think we're supposed to have a mild winter here in the Pacific NW, so this shouldn't be too terribly difficult. It'll be the overnight temps I'll have to contend with since those will definitely get under 60.

Thanks.

 

[Woodonglass]

Yeah, I bet you didn't think the Old Dumb Okie could spit out words like that!!! (I had to look dem werds up in a dictionary and it took an hour or so to find em all!!!):laugh: I shore hope you wuz duly impressed!!!!:stupid:

 

[PitaBoat22]

HA! Appreciate people with a good sense of humor. Got back at it today. Cut down all of the left-over lips from the original fillets, so getting very close to grinding. No pics to show....too dark when I decided to call it good for the day. Decided to cut out the keel piece that was under the engine compartment and glad I did. Oily guk under that thing. So, what kind of wood is best for the keel? Same as what I will use for the stringers?

 

[Rickmerrill]

I couldn't find the keel piece in the back in the old pics but I'd just use whatever the mfg used (if you can tell). The trick is to completely encapsulate it so that it's waterproof and tab it in just like Woods stringer instructions. If I'm off he'll correct me!

 

[Woodonglass]

Yeah, not sure what you're referencing, but what ever you're using for the stringers should be fine. Like Rick says, it's all about encapsulation.

 

[PitaBoat22]

Well, maybe "keel" isn't the correct term. I was referencing the pieces that run along the middle of the hull. My boat has one longer/skinnier piece that runs along the middle of the length of the boat and then another shorter/fatter piece that runs directly under the engine. You can see them in the pic below. Separating them were two bulkheads - the space between which was filled with foam with a piece of embedded PVC for drainage.

 

[Woodonglass]

Oh yeah I remember now!!! Yup, Plywood and Put it back just like it was. I can't tell you exactly why it was there but they had a reason and I wouldn't question it.

 

[Rickmerrill]

Yeah Pita it is called the keel! I just couldn't remember what it looked like right under the engine.

 

[PitaBoat22]

Ok - thanks.

 

[kcassells]

Hi Pita! Welcome aboard! When I removed my keel it was mush like most of my boats wood. But this pc in particular was like a carved 2x4x8 to fit into place as the keel.
I may be wrong but I understand that you should use a series of ply {more strength}to make the fit and scallop it to fit the contour. Ea. pc. should be sealed, then pb, then fitted and sealed with glass. I'm sure WOG or Rick will clarify this better.
Been ready to approach this myself so I'm gonna follow your thread. Thanks!

 

[PitaBoat22]

Thanks, KC. I will dissect and post pics of the old ones so we all can see how they were constructed.

 

[kcassells]

Thanks, KC. I will dissect and post pics of the old ones so we all can see how they were constructed.

hey Pita, I believe this eating Hoagie/Scrapple Man machine rebuilt his Keel. But I do know he did rebuild his inboard motor mount/wood with ply that was sweet as Candy. 1981 Bayliner Victoria 2750 - Restore or Bust
GWPSR
His technique would be the same for a keel in ply. Just don't put your hands inside the cage. you will lose your fingers. His site is full of goodies. Don't know the pg. # but you'll get it.

Anyone else wanna chime in on fabricating a ply keel?

 

[Woodonglass]

Let's clarify things a bit. In the pic it appears there are thin pieces of plywood laminated to the hull with a piece of pvc laid in the very lowest portion of the "V" and this entire assembly is laminated to the hull. There also appears to be a channel ln the "V". If you are talking about the piece that fits in that "V"and extends vertically upward like a stringer then yes that is the Keel of the boat. It's built exactly like the stringers and typically is laminated from plywood just like the stringers and should be made to fit the width of the existing channel and at a height to fit the level of the deck. If your talking about the PVC/Plywood assembly then again I'm not sure of it's purpose but as previously stated I would recommend replacing it just like it is now.