1982 Kencraft Baymaster 18'10'' Restore

[Teamster]

Re: 1982 Kencraft Baymaster 18'10'' Restore

I never put rods in a locker with hooks or lures on them,..

Also I use Crown Royal bags with a small hole cut in the bottom to slide down the rod but and cover the reels,..

Gym socks would work just as well as reel covers, And cheaper than drinking up 10 or 15 bottles of Crown,....

 

[Durt]

Re: 1982 Kencraft Baymaster 18'10'' Restore

Got the transom out, but didn't get the hull sanded down. Another 4 hours and I'll be ready.

4 hours my arse. put in 7 today grinding and still need about 3 more......lesson learned.

 

[jigngrub]

Re: 1982 Kencraft Baymaster 18'10'' Restore

 

[Durt]

Re: 1982 Kencraft Baymaster 18'10'' Restore

I appreciate your comment. I've been searching a lot on foam over the last couple of days and still haven't come to a conclusion on my foam plan. I'm going to drill holes in the deck, pour and cover the holes, but the question about limber holes still remains. There are lots of opinions out there, but haven't been able to choose the right path for my boat.

I just don't like the idea of leaving space below deck(empty channels created for running water to the bilge) for condensation to form. I'm thinking of completely sealing off the bilge area and fill completely with foam. No space = No condensation in my mind. Thoughts?

Limber searches don't turn up much, only 5 threads on the subject.

 

[jigngrub]

Re: 1982 Kencraft Baymaster 18'10'' Restore

Limber holes are useless when pouring through the deck, water isn't going to pass through the foam to drain through the limber hole.

A sealed bilge with a deck drain out the transom is much more practical.

 

[Durt]

Re: 1982 Kencraft Baymaster 18'10'' Restore

Exactly what I needed to hear, and I agree. Thanks

 

[Durt]

Re: 1982 Kencraft Baymaster 18'10'' Restore

Moving right along, all grinding is complete, transom is installed, stringers are cut are ready to install. Pictures coming tomorrow.

Question....I plan on increasing the fall from front to back an additional 2" over the entire 19', but am not sure if I'm going to add in any fall towards the center. I was thinking 3/4" down in the middle, that would give it a 1/4"/foot fall towards the center. Is that normal for a boat, or should I just go with a flat deck?

The epoxy is a real pain, seems to fall a lot and takes a long time to set. I think I may break out the propane patio heater for the stringers so I can control the pooling a little

 

[Durt]

Re: 1982 Kencraft Baymaster 18'10'' Restore

 

[Durt]

Re: 1982 Kencraft Baymaster 18'10'' Restore

I just ordered two heating pads for the epoxy, that should kick it off a little quicker!

Would like to change the transom drain to a 1" or 1 1/4" hole instead of 3/4" since those little holes always get clogged up. Going to try and find a larger bronze drain, I'll see what I can find.

 

[Durt]

Re: 1982 Kencraft Baymaster 18'10'' Restore

Need advice

Should the deck slope towards the center of the boat, or should it be flat and just slope aft? Going to cut the stringers down tonight, so this is my last day to decide. I can't find much of anything about slopes on a deck, other than to slope aft.

 

[Teamster]

Re: 1982 Kencraft Baymaster 18'10'' Restore

Flat, Sloping aft,....................

 

[Durt]

Re: 1982 Kencraft Baymaster 18'10'' Restore

Will have the stringers glassed tonight, and will work on the deck tomorrow. Still on schedule for a June 1 launch, but the budget is blown.

I'm at $2k already, in all fairness though I'm counting tools that I've acquired as well. DA sander, new grinder, laser level, 6' level, etc.

Side note...
I bought a 6" Kobalt DA sander that said it uses 5CFM, I have a true 7.5CFM air compressor and it doesn't keep up. I'm going to tee in a mushroom to help I guess.

All acetoned up and ready to glass



bilge area



transom glassed

 

[Durt]

Re: 1982 Kencraft Baymaster 18'10'' Restore

I'm out of epoxy, 5 gallons went fast. Another $300 to USComposites.

I bought two heating pads that I wrap around my epoxy and hardener, allows it to kick off faster and is thinner. I like it.

 

[jigngrub]

Re: 1982 Kencraft Baymaster 18'10'' Restore

Need advice

Should the deck slope towards the center of the boat, or should it be flat and just slope aft? Going to cut the stringers down tonight, so this is my last day to decide. I can't find much of anything about slopes on a deck, other than to slope aft.

The deck shouldn't actually slope, it should be the same measurement down from the top of the gunwale all the way around.

When the boat is at rest in the water with the bow higher than the transom it will give the appearance of an aft sloping deck, but when the boat is at speed and on plane and leveled out, the deck will be level too.

 

[Durt]

Re: 1982 Kencraft Baymaster 18'10'' Restore

After I removed all of the plywood from the gunwale, it is considerably weaker and bends with a heavy hand. I'd like to add back some stiffness without wood, how feasible is that? The problem with the wooden gunwale is that it must be glassed on the bottom to protect it, but that also traps ALL water that makes its way into the wood.

I guess my question is, how many layers of DB170 (17oz 45-45 biax) cloth would be needed to match a 1/2" piece of plywood under this condition? Hopefully the below pictures will help, that pvc pipe is 1.5".

I've also thought about adding "upside down stringers", 1" thick and 2" tall, running the full length of the gunwale and glassing them.

Thanks all

 

[Durt]

Re: 1982 Kencraft Baymaster 18'10'' Restore

I Should add the upside down stringers would have a foam core, not solid fiberglass

 

[Teamster]

Re: 1982 Kencraft Baymaster 18'10'' Restore

On the underside of the gunnel??

I'd just use plywood, Water should be running down away from it???

 

[Durt]

Re: 1982 Kencraft Baymaster 18'10'' Restore

Problem is that after you glass it to the gunnel, any water that comes from above doesn't have anywhere to go, then I end up in the same situation I was before, with 90 pounds sheets of plywood.

I'm running a little test tonight, I have a 10" x 10" piece drying on wax paper, and a double layer of 10" by 10". See if two layers makes a big difference, and see if one is all i feel I need. Still would like to get some opinions on how many layers of DB170 you think I would need to stiffen up the gunnel a little without wood.

I'm not saying i can't avoid water, but with rod holders, cleats, cup holders in the gunnels, I'd rather just put enough glass under there and never worry about it.

 

[Teamster]

Re: 1982 Kencraft Baymaster 18'10'' Restore

The problem is the glass will de laminate and lose much of it's strength if it get's wet,......

With properly coated ply, And making sure all of you screw/bolt holes for cleats ext are sealed, I think the plywood under the gunnel should last for years,..........

 

[Durt]

Re: 1982 Kencraft Baymaster 18'10'' Restore

I didn't think about it delaminating. If the gunnel is glass, and I add glass to it with epoxy, what makes you think it will delaminate?