1981 Starcraft Super Sport 180 - Gonna try a Restore

[BMerr509]

Candutch- i like that casting deck, looks similar to mine! Meant to thank you for your rear casting deck framing idea. Boat looks awesome!

 

[Candutch]

Thanks for stopping by fellas. BMerr Im glad my framing gave you some ideas. I have decided over the winter that it needs to be bolted through the transom though. I don't want the flex of the transom on just the splashwell screws. I am going to attach it through the angle that makes up the braces for the transom end of the splashwell sides. I'll use 2 or 3 1/4 stainless bolts on each side.
Watermann, thanks so much for that offer. I couldn't find solid rivets anywhere locally that's why I ended up using ss screws in the few places I needed them.

 

[BMerr509]

I am going to attach it through the angle that makes up the braces for the transom end of the splashwell sides. I'll use 2 or 3 1/4 stainless bolts on each side.

I did the exact same thing actually. I think i used rivets instead of bolts but same difference really. I also used 5200 to secure the angle to the transom along with some 1" screws. I made a modified frame with the angle for my front casting deck also. I'll probably take mine out within a month, i'll let you know what kind of structural weaknesses there are in the design so you can be prepared for them, if you'd like.

 

[Candutch]

Thanks BMerr, that would be good to know if there are any weaknesses. I used 5200 everywhere between the ttansom and aluminum so water wouldn't get in. I also use angle on the front deck but incorporated the original aluminum u piece for the seating. It's beefed up pretty good.

 

[mbroughton02]

If it makes you feel any better, I was doing some electrical wiring in my basement about a year ago and was attempting to drill a hole through the ceiling into the cavity between two studs in a 1st floor wall. Measured at least 3 times to be sure I didn't miss...I missed. Right through the hardwood floor!

 

[Candutch]

That sucks! It must be the measuring, I measured 3 times as well. Should have eyeballed it

 

[RStewart]

Glad you're still finishing up the boat. I just read through this whole thread. You do good work Candutch.

I do have a question for any of you experts. I like the rear deck on Candutch's boat but is there an engineering reason why the SW couldn't be made shorter from the transom in towards the boat more like on a bass boat? Seems like a lot of wasted deck space. It would be nice if the SW was only about 6-8 inches long from stern towards the bow.

 

[BMerr509]

Ron- I basically stole candutch's idea for the rear casting deck and I'll give you my reason as to why I didn't make it too short. What I did was tilt the motor fully in the up position, then measured 3" from its closest point to the rear casting deck, to be sure I'd clear the motor while tilted. I can measure mine but I know I took off about 12" or so, and I used the original aluminum. If you never plan on tilting your motor, I don't see a problem unless you back troll.

Let's see what the pros say!

 

[Watermann]

Let's see what the pros say!

We actually have some of those around here? :lol:

Take a look at the SW of this brand new 2017 SFM

 

[BMerr509]

I like it. The problem i have with that is you need a 30' net in order to land a fish. i like ours because you can get right close to the stern of the boat. It's not terrible but if you're going to do a SW like the one SC has there, you might as well do what WM did on his current project. That was my option Number 2.

 

[Candutch]

Thanks for stopping by Ron, appreciate the compliment. The short SW will not allow you to tilt the OB if you want to keep it the same height unless you do something like what Water posted and then that defeats the purpose of freeing up deck space. Structurally I don't see an issue as long as it is tied into the gunnels and to the transom.
I had my engineer buddy have a look at how I tied mine in and he gave it the thumbs up so if it's good enough for him it's good enough for me. Hope he is right

 

[Watermann]

I'm thinking you're good to go too. :thumb:

One feature I like about the V5 model SS are the double knee braces that are solid riveted through the bottom, stringers, SW and bolted through the transom. Super solid!

 

[Candutch]

Ya that is pretty solid the way they did it on the v5. If I had to do it again I would probably have made 2 more knee braces that would have attached to the plate floor just for piece of mind with that 120 hanging off the back.
On another note, got the boat off the trailer, it's sitting a bit crooked on the cradles but should be fine I hope.
Now the trailer work begins. Hope my parts come in soon. View attachment y4m1Tx0q-KN6sRdqYufcVH9kZlUvUpNyLRLfkrVJleUkbLIZXkVGpuy1CTAjPcWf3Q73spQElrShsuJ7He8ACVjcaFSVO6_za9Mp

 

[RStewart]

Thanks for the response Bmerr & Candutch. Based of what you guys said, maybe putting a 6 or 8 inch jackplate on would not even make the boat perform better but might let the motor set back far enough to tilt with a smaller SW. Anyway, didn't mean to hijack the thread. Back to regular schedule programming.

 

[Watermann]

Oh boy trailer work! As important as it is (everything rides on it) I still dislike that part of the process. I think paint stripping is more fun. :ambivalence:

 

[Candutch]

Ya not looking forward to it, especially since it is outside now and the spring weather can be pretty hit and miss around here.

 

[crankbait cowboy]

boat looks great perched there candutch, and love them rims

 

[Candutch]

Got some trailer work done this week. Managed to get the rollers and brackets pulled off between sleeping and working night shifts. Then on my first day off hauled it to the u sandblast place and stripped all the paint off. I was lucky I got her home and in the garage minutes before the rain started.
View attachment y4mkZTr6dlPmGv7kXhEJSGDdTAH2NQR9hwM1Sh_8dGzsWWLDLlpsSKZ9n_jmknyf0wi-ZQpAy567sUCo75UJjg1jKyfL-3i0xecL
View attachment y4muStfDi41yrXGlBy4voifvnohtMrPu8790ZbNcLVoVjGrIOtP8ZJt_LrReI27E2P-a0DFDhzH2PR3_hqF8sGvBzCQwRyVdTCQ6

 

[Candutch]

I also bought some 3 x 3 square tubing to lengthen the tongue and drop part of it below the frame. The bow keel needs to come down 4 inches and the way the tongue was set up the keel would hit it. I think I figured a good solid way to attack it. I will u bolt the tongue forward and behind the front triangle to the 3 foot piece of 3 x 3 running underneath which will be u bolted and welded to the cross member.
View attachment y4mYeJVXZFMLEeDr46fzWQdnzagVz1N3JBy3xbr3DH_7DgtHxbcL58b7pVRL_3nqFTdYBxB8q6X-Yon3seUVd4pjRNuykR3onofJ
I have a 30 inch section of the original tongue with the hitch on it what will be attached with one of those swing away hitch brackets. It will just fit in my garage like that and I will now have 4 feet between the front of the boat and back of tow vehicle.

 

[Candutch]

I also broke out my welder for the first time and realized I'm not very good at welding. I had to weld the piece of box tubing onto the bracket that the rear leaf spring slides into. The old one was rusted right through. The PO must have hit something really hard to because those brackets were all bent and mangled. I heated the crap out of them with my propane torch and beat them flat with a hammer. I also welded the rear frame tubing since it was cracked along the bottom bend, doesn't look great but it will do I think.
View attachment y4m3Lxg5Nq2JOQj5oMaklBaBitmyZh66Sz3mfa2lLvgZ0CfpwsAmF2sQ3wabBIjMUAfaPH2GXQKx6AFvktD6rZgQWQR6hCVBMGsC
View attachment y4mhiwl_0qlkFtpNPVmjXpm7AB_eQXi6NNrw7o_TNhjz_jELBS_R-zt5iVFnETp6jupgEMp1pRyYl-PnY3kcySarEIE-XV7O17VQ