1980s Coastworker 180 transom core replacement questions/advice sought

CW180

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Re: 1980s Coastworker 180 transom core replacement questions/advice sought

Thanks guys

Began rigging stuff tonight.
Steering cable is in through the tube although the thread in the outboard for the control arm to attach to seems too small for the bolt. Must be just rusted but I think it's an odd thread and not something I have a tap for to clean it up.

Power feed is connected and the wiring harness from engine to remote is fed along the under deck conduit.
Fuel line is also hooked up along there.

I'm not sure though about the orientation of the gear/throttle cables however.

Here's my deck layout:
IMG_0732.jpg


You can see where the cables and fuel line come out of the deck in front of the transom, but I'm not sure it'd be ok to use this route for the control cables, or whether they would have to go with the steering cable which is open on the deck since it cannot go in the conduit (would require too tight a radius where it comes out).

Any bright ideas for this, or how they should be set up where they go into the engine? I think it's common to have a full loop of control cable in front of the engine so that flex from when the engine is steered is reduced/spread over a whole loop. I might not be describing this at all well, sorry!

I've decided i'm not going to have the batteries in the rear stbd locker after all, but beneath the console. I've got some 41mm2 cross section power cable which should give tons of power headroom and negligible voltage drop along the 2-2.5m run from console to stern, but it will help balance the weight of the big 75 and the 5hp aux.

Oh, and don't worry - I'm not going to be leaving the cables just coming from the deck like it is in the pic!
Those will be secured and a fuel filter/separator installed etc.
 

CW180

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Re: 1980s Coastworker 180 transom core replacement questions/advice sought

Time for another update.

Loads done since last post and she's sooooo close now to being ready for a test run!

The engine has been run a lot now - basically every evening when I go out to work on the boat I've been running the engine in the water barrel and at this stage it is running great now it's had the cobwebs blown out.
Starts really easy cold or hot, has good oil pressure, and isn't getting hot. I've had some issues with the telltale stream being intermittent but I know the water pump is good and impeller is new plus frequently the stream is very strong. I know it's pumping water perfectly well, but I think there are still little bits of crud causing flow restrictions to the telltale.

Cleaned out a ton of salt from the hose flush port on the back of the engine, and some from the thermostat housing too. New stat fitted as after testing the old one it wasn't closing very well.

Scuppers are bonded in now, as is the transom drain plug.
The holes in the deck where I cut out access hatches are glassed back in now and have gelcoat added to some.
Tank has a new filter, and the engine has new male & female fuel connectors.

Battery has been moved forward to the console to help with weight balance.
Instruments are nearly fully wired in, although once everything is fully hooked up and working I'm going to undo a load of it and tidy up the wiring in respect of cutting the length of the wires only to what it needs to be, and to replace cheap crimp terminals I added for the moment with proper waterproof plug connectors etc.

Had to strip my Glomex VHF antenna as it had some corrosion in the base, plus the coax was suffering a bit from 'green death' so I replaced that. The radio has gone from picking up no signals to getting stuff loud & clear.

Coastal flare pack was bought last week (?ouch!), and new lifejackets en route.

Backup engine has also been fitted now I have got the bracket installed. It's pretty wobbly though and I'm not happy about that so I need to improve it and secure it by additional means.

GPS/fishfinder is working fine now, but still need to connect the NMEA output to the Cobra VHF radio. I don't yet have an MMSI number to use the DSC function, but I want it hooked up anyway for when I do have one.

Windscreen is also installed and makes the boat look a lot nice imho.
photo-148.jpg


Most of the remaining work is cosmetic now, and today I did some further work on the stbd chine with sanding & gelcoat, plus there's the matter of tidying up wiring & cabling, still.

Nav lights (well, port & stbd at least) are fitting & fine, as are most of the gauges, although the trim/tilt gauge is doing nothing. This is a faulty sender I think as I was told at the time of taking the engines that this was the case.

Also, today I spent a lot of time getting the rusted up axle bolts undone on the trailer. As previously mentioned, balance was not right on the trailer and the weight of the BF75 would make the stern squat down. Sooner or later that would have caused a broken skeg!

Adding the BF5 beside it didn't help, but today I managed with a lot of WD40, brute force, and stubbornness, to move the axle 8" back towards the stern. Balances beautifully now. Very easy to pick up the tow hitch, but even standing on the transom, the boat does not want to tip like it was doing.

Really close now. Autumn is definitely here though, and the wind is getting worse so who knows when I'll actually get out there....
 
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CW180

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Re: 1980s Coastworker 180 transom core replacement questions/advice sought

Have a question that has occurred to me about transom stuff - I'm happy that the transom is rock solid now, and really pleased with my efforts, but I haven't yet bonded on the original transom cap.

I need to lift the engine again to do that (it can keep all the stuff connected to it), then place the peanut butter coated cap on the transom and squish it down. Not difficult and it shouldn't take long, but it made me wonder if it really adds any structure to the transom as such or is mostly a cosmetic item?

At first I thought the answer was obvious, ie that it adds a clamping type effect over the layers of the transom core/skins to help keep them together, but then I figured with the engine's bolts going right through the transom and pulling together from both sides, is the cap going to make a bugger of difference?

It's sort of academic since I'm going to fit it anyway (wouldn't look finished without it), but I wonder if any experienced builders/engineers could pass comment on this?

Thanks!
 

CW180

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Re: 1980s Coastworker 180 transom core replacement questions/advice sought

Well regardless, the transom cap is bonded on now.

Aside from some tidying on the wiring and attaching the splashwell board I made, she's ready for sea at last!
 

Woodonglass

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Re: 1980s Coastworker 180 transom core replacement questions/advice sought

Sorry for not responding sooner. The cap is there for two reasons. to help seal the top of the transom and cosmetic. No structural purpose at all. The boat looks AWESOME. You should be very proud. You have done an outstanding job on this difficult transom replacement. It will serve you well for Decades to come.
BYBBSeal.jpg
 

CW180

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Re: 1980s Coastworker 180 transom core replacement questions/advice sought

Thanks for the kind words Wood - I appreciate it.

Everything is ready for a test launch now, so I just need a saturday or sunday when there's not really any wind.
Might be some time....

So glad to have it ready finally, but I'm sort of dreading AND excited about the first few test runs at the same time!

When I eventually get the chance to try it out, I'll post up what happens afterwards.
 

Teamster

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Re: 1980s Coastworker 180 transom core replacement questions/advice sought

Lot's of pics and video of the splash please!!!,....
 

Woodonglass

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Re: 1980s Coastworker 180 transom core replacement questions/advice sought

Really looking forward to your SPLASH!!! It is Well Earned!!!!:D
 

CW180

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Re: 1980s Coastworker 180 transom core replacement questions/advice sought

Thanks - I'm absolutely itching to get out to sea, but it generally a lot of 30mph winds here at the moment which isn't suitable.
Last saturday would have been the perfect day but I had to go to the UK to take my nephew to Uni.

Might be a while, but in the meantime I'm doing little improvements here and there.

Here's how the boat looks from the front by the way:

photo-150.jpg


I think, as well as the splash well/board thing that I fitted, I'm going to add bits on the transom, either side of the engine, to help reduce the water that can get over the back.

Ie similar to what's fitted in this pic:
Boatpics026.jpg
 
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Teamster

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Re: 1980s Coastworker 180 transom core replacement questions/advice sought

Your pic is missing,..

I assume your referring to something like "Wave Wackers" or "Walleye Master" type of splash guards????
 

CW180

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Re: 1980s Coastworker 180 transom core replacement questions/advice sought

Oops - not sure why that didn't work.

Will have to google those ones, but this sort of thing:
925848132_orig.jpg
 

Teamster

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Re: 1980s Coastworker 180 transom core replacement questions/advice sought

Looks like you could easily make a set of those out of a couple of cutting boards,....

Similar to what I was thinking,....
 

CW180

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Re: 1980s Coastworker 180 transom core replacement questions/advice sought

Hadn't thought of cutting boards admittedly.

I've got lots of marine ply still from rebuilding the transom, so I was planning on just using two smallish bits of that, and maybe giving them a coat of epoxy or something.

Won't really matter what they're like for now. I just want to fit something basic in case when I test the boat the stern sits low.
If it turns out that they're necessary and doing a good job then I'd probably remove them and get a nice finish on them.
 

Teamster

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Re: 1980s Coastworker 180 transom core replacement questions/advice sought

Even if the stern doesn't sit low they will do a good job of helping to knock down waves,...

Around here we run "splash guards" to back troll into the waves,......
 

CW180

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Re: 1980s Coastworker 180 transom core replacement questions/advice sought

I found some perspex that I had and made a couple of splash guards last night & got them fitted. Ideally I need bigger pieces of thicker plastic (I think it's 4mm stuff), but they're better than nothing and anything getting over them or through the middle goes into the pseudo splashwell behind.

Well, the day of the launch finally arrived and I'm delighted to say everything went uber smoothly. No troubles whatsoever, and the only minor gripes are ones that I knew about before setting off.

Boat was very easy to launch, and easy to retrieve as well.
Lists to port every so slightly, and I don't think it's a coincidence that the aux engine (28kg) is on that side. My mate was sat in the bow seat and was leaning to starboard to counteract but it didn't really help. Might be because he was at the front rather than the back?
It's not too bad, but would like to get it running level if I can.

Is this something that the trim tab thing on the gearbox (just behind the prop) could cause or correct?

Anyway, some details:
Top speed was 34mph, and this was at 5200rpm. Engine would not rev higher than this, which proved I think my suspicion that the 19" pitch prop is too much. So presumably I have to buy a 17" from somewhere. I would guess with the 17" prop fitted I'd maybe get the same top speed but running at 6000rpm instead. Aside from the fact it will be able to haul more payload, is there any benefit though to doing this? Surely it'll mean that to achieve the same speed, at higher revs it will be less economical than it is now?

Need to find another 90 carb to replace the one I was conned with that's actually off a 75, then I get the extra power by fitting those, and I think the 19" prop would then be fine.

Anyway, runs nice!
The scuppers that I fitted, sit ever so slightly below the water line. Not great, but since it has flaps there's nothing getting in. This is obviously due to the weight of the engine, plus me stood at the back to look overboard. With no-one on the boat, they're just sitting at water level so I think they're fine. Was a calm sea, but no water got in anyway.

Steering is crap and needs replacing. Shame as I just bought a new cable for about ?90, but it seems there's a load of backlash in the helm unit. It's a Teleflex Safe-T system, and I've read they're really bad for slop, so I won't buy a new one of those, I'm going to bite the bullet and buy hydraulic once I can afford to.

It's useable, but not enjoyable to be constantly correcting for the backlash in the system.

Tried the aux engine (Honda BF5) and it pushed me along at 4.5mph into the tide, and just over 6mph with the tide. Seems ok for emergency use.

Not a huge amount else to report though folks. Everything just went perfectly and despite never being on this boat before on the water, it just seemed right. The standing position is not great due to the seat pod, as it means you can't space legs in front of each other, so rough water will be interesting, but visibility is good so sitting might be ok.

Cannot describe just how happy I am though to have finally (8 months after buying) got this boat on the water and safely back in again. After having years of boat trouble and barely getting near the sea, it truly was a joy and a tonic to get back there, and the new girl seems to have been worth all the effort.

Here's a few pics from today:

photo5-8.jpg


photo2-34.jpg


photo1-34.jpg


PA070337.jpg


If anyone's spotted the slightly upward firing pee stream from the engine, it's deliberate. I've turned it the other way round to normal and the result is that it's WAY easier to see at a moment's glance that the pee stream is good and healthy when moving at speed, compared to one that points downwards.

Anyway, really appreciate all the input on here and assistance. Hopefully all the rationale that I've explained with various stages of work might prove of use to someone in future, but either way, people on here have really been a help - thank you.

Jim
 
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Woodonglass

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Re: 1980s Coastworker 180 transom core replacement questions/advice sought

WO HOO!!! Jimbo Splashed his Boat!!!!! She Looks GREAT on the water!!!! Congratulations a on a Job well done. Now catch some fish and drink some beer and enjoy the fruits of your labor.
images
 

CW180

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Re: 1980s Coastworker 180 transom core replacement questions/advice sought

Thanks! :)

It's a massive relief to know all the work has come to fruition at last before winter gets here and spoils the weather.

I might get the odd chance to get out before the end of the year but it'll most likely only be once or twice.
Thing is though, now that I've been able to test her out, I don't feel the slightest bit of urgency to get back out and am happy to get little tweaks done so it's better next time. Then I'll be happy to get out when the weather/wife allows it.

Made a big list of little bits & bobs to do in the meantime.
Main things I need to sort first are the steering (need to find some money for a hydraulic system) and the prop.
Kind of not sure whether to bother forking out for a 17" prop though as I've a suspicion that it'll just result in more fuel getting burned even though the engine will be able to rev out how it should.

Haven't felt this happy about boat stuff for a LONG time though. :D
 

Teamster

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Re: 1980s Coastworker 180 transom core replacement questions/advice sought

Congratulations!!!!

Looks great!!!!,...

The easiest way to counter the weight of the kicker is to try to move some weight around in the boat,...

Batteries, Anchors,...and so on,......
 

CW180

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Feb 12, 2012
Messages
114
Re: 1980s Coastworker 180 transom core replacement questions/advice sought

Ok - I know this is updating an oldish thread but I think it's relevant/valid for anyone interested.

I finally managed to recently finish the upgrade/conversion of the engine from a BF75 to BF90 and the results are pretty much exactly what I was hoping for.

I tried getting someone to machine out a 75 carb to make it a 90 one, and fitting the correct jets etc. The 90 carb is basically the 75 one with a bigger hole in the middle, but unfortunately there's a couple of minor differences that I couldn't accurately replicate so I had to abandon that idea annoyingly!
Bought a brand new 90 carb from the US and fitted that along with the 3 others that I had, having stripped, cleaned and set them up properly.

After a bit of initial hassle thinking I had a 'problem cylinder' because I hadn't syncronised them, she runs great as a 90.
On the water, this 15bhp increase (same 19" alloy prop) translates to much better holeshot, and 5mph top end increase. More significantly than the speed though is that the engine now revs out to 6000. If it's tilted up then that increases to 6200rpm but that's too much so I reigned it in.
It's possible that I could actually go to 21" pitch, or benefit from a stainless 19" prop, but at this stage I'm really not bothered about messing with it further unless I get lent props to try out, or get them for a steal. Overall, I'm very happy with the performance to be hitting 40mph (2 up).

Lots of refinements to be done for comfort etc. A big job I need to do is to remove the large 'chest' seat, and replace it with a more narrow one that I can stand astride. The current one is dangerous IMO as it doesn't allow you to balance while standing, and I hate to sit while in control of a boat due to less visibility ahead.

Yesterday I managed to get a Baystar hydraulic steering kit that was on special offer too, so I'm really excited to have that to fit. Will be a huge improvement not having lots of backlash in the steering.

I also replaced the small splash guards I'd made on the transom with much larger, thicker acrylic ones that come level with the rest of the transom. No water has really come in when I've been out on the sea.

So other than tweaks/cosmetics etc, I'm super pleased with how the boat has turned out, compared with a year or so when I'd recently bought it and was finding all wasn't as I thought!
 
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