1980 citation 17’ new floor and stringers

[Shawboat]

So I picked a older citation bow rider,it has a 85 Evinrude that has a new engine and previous owner just spent 2100$ on
I bought the boat fir 1600$ knowing it needs a new floor and most likely new stringers ! Been doin some research on utube and seen some good ideas, I have worked lots with fibreglass over the years and did a transom and stringers in a trophy 2460 years ago, but I like the new styl of stringers you can buy already to install, anyone out there ever use these ? Iam on a tight budget no I prob just use fir 2x4 or 2x6 and also I found out that I should put some sort of softener under the stringers against the hill so it won’t crack
Never heard of ever doing that but it does make sense ! Any help and advice will be helpful thanks

 

[Shawboat]

Iam going to start tearing it apart about in March
So looking for good info and advice !

 

[Baylinerchuck]

Welcome to IBoats.
Looks like a nice open bow. Should be a fun project. I use exterior grade plywood for stringers and the rest of the structural components. The plywood standing on end is stronger than dimensional lumber. Properly encapsulated it’ll last several decades.
You are referring to bedding the stringer. None of the wood should touch the hull. It should be shimmed off the hull by 1/4” or so. Thickened reinforced resin is then forced under the stringer and makes the initial bond. The stringer is then tabbed in with glass.
Look at the stickies at the top of this section for some really good details.

 

[Shawboat]

Thanks allot bay liner chuck for your reply
I was actually thinking on using fir 2x6 for stingers and 1/2 plywood for floors and double up the transom with3/4 plywood and just glass it all
I got a line on used 1 year old whit interior coy shins and seats for 500 dollars !
I can wait to tear into it and get glassing Iam so excited!
the outboard sounds very good as it’s got a new power head that never yet see the water
The previous owner paid 2100$ for the rebuild from the shop but never used it !
I think it with be a great boat and project !
With new stringers and transom and floor the boat will be like new again, bring life back to this 80’s boat !
Iam very lucky to have lots of used boats in my area where I live for parts !
thanks for your time and advice
I will look at using plywood for strings also
Probably a lot cheaper also
Do I just glue down the floor to the stringers? And use deck screws ?

 

[Scott Danforth]

all the information you need will be in here https://forums.iboats.com/threads/how-tos-and-other-great-information.283508/

specifically links 14, 15, 18, 2, 3, 4a, and 4b. however note, that link 14 has not been "re-connected" since the forum software change.

here is the rebuild https://forums.iboats.com/threads/1995-sea-ray-220-signature-deck-and-stringer-restoration.495449/

that is friscoboaters searay rebuild on here he also documented it on youtube. https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=friscoboater+sea+ray+rebuild

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[Baylinerchuck]

Thanks allot bay liner chuck for your reply
I was actually thinking on using fir 2x6 for stingers and 1/2 plywood for floors and double up the transom with3/4 plywood and just glass it all
I got a line on used 1 year old whit interior coy shins and seats for 500 dollars !
I can wait to tear into it and get glassing Iam so excited!
the outboard sounds very good as it’s got a new power head that never yet see the water
The previous owner paid 2100$ for the rebuild from the shop but never used it !
I think it with be a great boat and project !
With new stringers and transom and floor the boat will be like new again, bring life back to this 80’s boat !
Iam very lucky to have lots of used boats in my area where I live for parts !
thanks for your time and advice
I will look at using plywood for strings also
Probably a lot cheaper also
Do I just glue down the floor to the stringers? And use deck screws ?

You really don’t want to screw directly into the stringer since you create a path for water to infiltrate. If you do use screws, you install cleats to the side of the stringer, then glue and screw into those. Use coated deck screws, but dip them in resin, then cover up the countersink with thickened resin. You glue the deck down with thickened resin.