1980 Beachcraft I/O Pretty but Rotten

[kiloforty]

I purchased my first boat for our family a couple of days ago. It's a 1980 Beachcraft with a Goodwrench 350/Mercruiser I/O. Took it to a reputable boat restoration and repair business only to find out from one of their guys, who happened to build these Beachcraft boats when they were still in business, that the transom, floor, and stringers are rotted. He did remark that the fiberglass portion of the hull seemed to be a good condition and even the paint on the outside is in good shape. The engine starts right up and seems to be in good running condition. I spent $2500 on the boat which included the tandem axle trailer which pulls smoothly. I'm debating whether I should try and sell it for what I bought it for, but with full disclosure of the rotted structure of the boat, or to restore it myself so my family and I can start using it next summer. I have a friend who has offered to help who restored his old Beachcraft himself. I have no attachment to the boat but really do like it and I like the color and overall vintage look to it. Wondering if that engine will last years to come because then it may be worth giving her a new skeleton and have the peace of mind that she's truly solid. A local boat engine mechanic who is trusted by everyone in the region, including my buddy, has boats to sell that he's gone through and fixed and knows well, for around $6000-$10k, so I'm debating if I could try and get my $2500 and put it towards something like that. But I realize even those may likely have issues that are starting to creep in and will only grow over time. Thanks in advance for any advice you can offer!

 

[kiloforty]

Here's a diagram from the Beachcraft brochure of the hull construction

 

[briangcc]

The engine, if maintained, will last. If not, its a small block chevy 350cui v8 - dime a dozen. Junk yards are littered with them - buy, marinize, install, move on.

Merc drive - if maintained, will last as well.

So basically boils down to structure. If you like the lines and are willing to dive head first into a possibly smelly/dusty/dirty repair job, the folks here are more than willing to assist you with questions.

 

[Chris1956]

Not sure what "Glas-core" stringer system is. It sounds like stringers may have some fiberglass in them. FG stringer components will last longer than wood. Pretty advanced for 1980. You might check year of specs.

Check the transom for rot yourself. The deck is easy to replace, but you likely would need to remove the cap.

 

[Scott Danforth]

How is the transom built?

from post #2, the floor is ply (common across many many many boats)

the engine will last up to the point you dont maintain it and it gets murdered (marine engines usually never wear out, they are killed)

If you like the looks, pull the drive, motor, interior, build a cradle, pull the cap and restore the transom/stringers/floor and go boating next year.

 

[todhunter]

Nice looking boat - the 80's were a great time for boat design, IMO. Anything from that vintage is going to be suspect for rot, though, unless it has been recently restored with lots of documentation. Also, unless you've restored a boat before or are already comfortable working with fiberglass, 9 months is ambitious (though not impossible) for a restoration. You'll need to stay focused on the "must fix" items and get started soon. That was my plan too, but it ended up taking me about 18 months.

I would guess that if you do all the work yourself you'd be looking at spending around $6K (ballpark) to replace the rot and do any maintenance the engine and drive need. If you do it yourself, you'll have a boat you're proud of and know like the back of your hand, and it will cost less than a new boat, but you'll be putting in a few hundred hours of unpaid labor.

 

[kiloforty]

Not sure what "Glas-core" stringer system is. It sounds like stringers may have some fiberglass in them. FG stringer components will last longer than wood. Pretty advanced for 1980. You might check year of specs.

Check the transom for rot yourself. The deck is easy to replace, but you likely would need to remove the cap.

Is there any way around removing the cap do you think?

 

[JASinIL2006]

Is there any way around removing the cap do you think?

There are others here with more experience on that type of boat construction, but I think the answer to your question will hinge on (a) whether the stringers are wood+fiberglass construction vs. fiberglass+foam, (b) how far any rot of the deck, stringers, etc., has progressed toward the bow and (c) how much wet foam you find under the deck.

For example, if everything forward of the seat pedestals was dry and sound, you might be able to leave the cap on just remove and replace the bad stuff. If you have rotten stringers that run the length of the boat, its' hard to imagine how you could get at all that without pulling the cap.

 

[kiloforty]

There are others here with more experience on that type of boat construction, but I think the answer to your question will hinge on (a) whether the stringers are wood+fiberglass construction vs. fiberglass+foam, (b) how far any rot of the deck, stringers, etc., has progressed toward the bow and (c) how much wet foam you find under the deck.

For example, if everything forward of the seat pedestals was dry and sound, you might be able to leave the cap on just remove and replace the bad stuff. If you have rotten stringers that run the length of the boat, its' hard to imagine how you could get at all that without pulling the cap.

That makes sense. Thanks!

 

[Scott Danforth]

Is there any way around removing the cap do you think?

Not with that bow. Removing the cap is actually about 10x less work than working around it

 

[kiloforty]

I'm thinking I could get my money back or maybe a little more if I try and sell it now. Do you think I'm better off doing that and putting that money toward a more solid boat?

 

[briangcc]

I'd personally think you'd need to up your boat budget substantially in order to get a better boat. Even then you're not guaranteed a boat without issues.

Right now, in my area, people are starting to think about offloading boats as the dreaded "w" word has to be considered...."winterize". Spring, when people have their tax returns, have been cooped up indoors for god knows how long, and are thinking about trying boat ownership is when prices are generally the highest selling.


Again it boils down to....

Are you willing to do the work to restore it and be on the water maybe next summer or the summer after that? If you are, the people here are willing to help.

If you're not....might I suggest either a boat rental club OR substantially upping your boat budget as $2500 (or thereabouts) is relatively certain to get you a project with potenitally more problems then you currently have?

 

[kiloforty]

I'd personally think you'd need to up your boat budget substantially in order to get a better boat. Even then you're not guaranteed a boat without issues.

Right now, in my area, people are starting to think about offloading boats as the dreaded "w" word has to be considered...."winterize". Spring, when people have their tax returns, have been cooped up indoors for god knows how long, and are thinking about trying boat ownership is when prices are generally the highest selling.


Again it boils down to....

Are you willing to do the work to restore it and be on the water maybe next summer or the summer after that? If you are, the people here are willing to help.

If you're not....might I suggest either a boat rental club OR substantially upping your boat budget as $2500 (or thereabouts) is relatively certain to get you a project with potenitally more problems then you currently have?

Thanks for the feedback. Wife and I are thinking we'd take the $2-$3k and put it toward a boat that is around $6-10k.

 

[briangcc]

That wasn't the number I had in mind when I said substantially. A boat in that adjusted price range is more than likely going to be hiding the same issues you're facing now....you'll just be paying more up front for it.

Year or two (maybe a bit more) old. So realistically, depending on features/options/manufacturer/motor/hours - $30k and up....and given current market $30k may not be enough.

 

[chevymaher]

Not with that bow. Removing the cap is actually about 10x less work than working around it

I agree. I got a bow rider and it added untold extra work. I am not sorry I did it that way but it was a ton of work. Laying upside down with a grinder in your face. Oh the memories.

 

[Baylinerchuck]

I agree. I got a bow rider and it added untold extra work. I am not sorry I did it that way but it was a ton of work. Laying upside down with a grinder in your face. Oh the memories.

With a closed bow I couldn’t imagine not decapping the boat if it’s built with a wood core. With a 1980’s boat the rot will be everywhere. The fact this company touts glass core is interesting. Still, the foam would almost certainly need to be replaced. The decision is yours. Can you handle it? The trailer to me looks to be worth what you paid for the boat IMO. You should be able to sell it for what you paid.