1979 Johnson 85HP no spark on 1 cylinder

[aahuyn]

I just got back from the mechanic. We tried 3 power packs and still no spark on the top right cylinder. He told me its either the trigger or the stator that's causing the problem. I'm downloading the manual right now. Isn't the trigger also call the timer base?

One thing is not making any sense to me, I guess I worked on motorcycles too long but if the stator is bad wouldn't that mean that I shouldn't get any spark to any cylinder?

I'm asking because I'm feeling like the guy is trying to stick it to me he told me it'll cost me 200$ for a used stator. I saw plenty of used one on ebay guarantee/ money back for less than 100.

At first I thought it was the coil so i replaced it and it seem to work for awhile then it stopped getting spark again. Just trying to narrow down the problem so I can start ordering parts to fix.

 

[Bosunsmate]

trigger yes timer base.
yes thats often the case but there are occasional exception
yes dont go back to him unless you want to pay the bucks, but i know people who would ask a bigger margin than him

 

[Bosunsmate]

http://issuu.com/cdielectronics/docs/troubleshootingguide\
look up your motor IN THAT, ITS MUCH BETTER THAN most manuals.
have you tried swapping the coils, ht wire and sparkplugs over? A dead plug happens too, im sure you know that but i thought id just write it as ive got the morning off

 

[V153]

Yes. Try swapping the coil, etc to another cyl and see if the problem follows it.

You are correct in that in general stators work, or they don't work. No in between. UNLESS it's overheating. Which doesn't sound like it's the case here.

Timer bases do go bad but are about twice as expensive as a stator so do your homework.

If/when you dig under the flywheel post a pic of the trigger/timer base. I probly got one that'll fit.

 

[aahuyn]

The coil is new and i did swap the coil and power pack. I'll have to wait until tomorrow to ohm test the stator and base timer. This would be my first time changing one on a boat. I have yet to go over the manual on how to do it. Does the flywheel have a slot? Do i need to set it at tdc before removing? And if its the base timer is it just drop in and play or is there a timing mark like a dirt bike?

 

[Bosunsmate]

Flywheel has a slot with a woodruff key in it, only use a oem replacement if you break it.
No doesnt need to be at tdc
Timing base will attach to the timing advance lever to give correct position, undoing the current one will show you how its hooked up
check that the wiring underneath the flywheel is not chaffed and grounding out

 

[V153]

And if its the base timer is it just drop in and play or is there a timing mark like a dirt bike?

Purty much. So long's it's pointed the right way ... If it's a direct replacement obvoiusly it'll "plug'n play". If not it can still be made to work with a lil creative wiring.

 

[aahuyn]

Glad to heard its an easy job. Since i said that the flywheel will probably be one of those wrist breakers lol. I guess i should look at the bright side. Compression is good so i dont have to replace any pistons soon >.< always something wrong with a boat. You use em they break you dont use em they break.

 

[boobie]

When you have no spark on one cylinder on that motor it's either a pack, coil or sensor. Found that out in service school many years ago.

 

[V153]

You use em they break you dont use em they break.

I disagree. When ya don't use em they 'decay'. Which imo is far worse than breaking one whilst using it ...?

But seriously. No need to break a wrist. Use a impact wrench on the flywheel nut. To remove, that is.

Do torque it down correctly by hand when reinstalling.

 

[aahuyn]

Well I did an ohm test on stator and timer base everything is good and no short. I now have to go get a DVA meter i'm guessing to test the output on them or build a dva adapter.

 

[aahuyn]

Just get better and better. Can't seem to find a DVA meter anywhere. Call every electronic place around trying to find a 2.2uf cap at 450v no one seem to carry them. I can order them but 5 days for either a DVA meter or cap by that time the brand new base timer i saw on ebay will be gone. And I don't want to order it and it turn out to be stator.

 

[aahuyn]

Well i guess when youre stuck you start pulling stuff out from your behind i have an broke stereo i took a apart some cap and connect them in series lol

 

[aahuyn]

I just got done with the dva adapter. I connected 3 4.7 uf 160v in series so i should have a 480v cap with im guessing 1.8 uf. Hook it all up and test eith my wall jack which is 119 but the thing is its showing around 374 so i think its not working. I will test it tomorrow anyway if i subtract 255 from whatever the reading is hopefully that will do

 

[Bosunsmate]

Not sure where 255 comes from but sounds like a definite rube goldberg machine youve made there

 

[aahuyn]

Lol the 255 are magic. I actually test it on my truck and ita giving me double the volt thats there.

 

[sumocomputers]

So you are testing this on AC from your wall with your meter set to AC?

When you actually get around to testing the power pack or other items, they usually require you to set your meter to DC when using the DVA. I ended up buying the Stevens instruments one for about $50, as I really didn't have the time to build my own. I would say the one you built cannot be relied on, since you are not building it to spec.

I know you are in a hurry to get that stator if it tests bad, but I don't think using your MacGyver rig can be trusted.

 

[aahuyn]

I might have to order one tomorrrow. I tried solder another one showing right volt to car and everything i tested but the wall jack. Ill wait until i get home and test the wall jack there.

 

[aahuyn]

Just got done with the test.. stator and timer base is giving good voltage. But the problem is the stator though. Terminal B going to the power pack is shorted. I checked the lead nothing is wrong with it so something is going on inside the stator. I guess the adapter I made work great on DC reading but triple my AC reading that's so weird

 

[SparkieBoat]

I am not sure what you got going with your DVA adapter.. but they are only like $20. I purchased one about 7 or 8 years ago, still works great. readings should be done a DC not AC. You can get the whole DVA volt meter for about $60