1979 18' Starcraft SuperSport Restoration

[PikeHunter431]

You workmanship and design is looking very fine mboughton02.

 

[mbroughton02]

Earlier I posted asking about new windshield support braces. A few of you suggested that I clean up the old ones because it's hard to find new ones this small.

Well, I tried to clean up the old ones, but the screws were seized into the rod part, and I could not get them apart without breaking them. So I had to find something.

These came about 1/2" too long but I disassembled them and cut down the rod part, and then reassembled them. Not too bad. They are "Rinker 10 1/8 Inch Aluminum Boat Windshield Support Brackets". $25 online and I think they look good.

In other news, my dashboard design...

...Was in fact too good to be true. On a whim I decided to hook up the steering cable to my plywood version before cutting the actual piece out of oak. The steering wheel is 2" to the right of where the PO had it, and now I know why it was originally further left. My placement is causing the steering cable to have too much bend, and the steering is therefore quite stiff even with no outboard attached yet.

So I am working on a "version 2" with the steering wheel in the same place the PO had it. I looked up the Teleflex instructions for this model and it calls for 19.25" from center of wheel to the outside of the bend in the cable. PO's placement puts it very close to that. Unfortunately I am going to lose the radio, and it will have to go on the port side console. I am bummed, but oh well.

 

[Watermann]

Those new WS supports are nice and fit right in with the shine on the WS frames, did you have to buff on them to get the shine?

 

[mbroughton02]

Those new WS supports are nice and fit right in with the shine on the WS frames, did you have to buff on them to get the shine?

No, fortunately they came this way

 

[mbroughton02]

Progress has slowed to a crawl. I started a new job Monday, which is mostly a good thing. But it's near my fiance's house, an hour away from the boat. I drove back to work on the boat some after work today and got the dash cut out of oak. I was actually able to rearrange from the plywood version and still make everything fit...barely.

 

[Pusher]

Looks good to me. I like how both large gauges have a smaller one at the 4 o'clock position. It gives it some symmetry. Are you going to station the oak or leave the natural look?

 

[Pusher]

I got married three years ago, by the way, and dating was one of the most time consuming things! It's not for wennies that's for sure!

 

[mbroughton02]

Looks good to me. I like how both large gauges have a smaller one at the 4 o'clock position. It gives it some symmetry. Are you going to station the oak or leave the natural look?

Thanks. I need to protect the oak but I was trying to avoid using spar varnish because it yellows the wood. I might try something clear that is made for decks.

 

[VT Dukhntr]

Looking really nice. Curious, what color pattern is the Nautolex? Is that the shark? I have a sample card, thinking about what I will use. Where did you get yours?

 

[mbroughton02]

Looking really nice. Curious, what color pattern is the Nautolex? Is that the shark? I have a sample card, thinking about what I will use. Where did you get yours?

Thanks. Yes it's the shark grey. I ordered it from defender.

 

[mbroughton02]

Gas tank is in:

Tank is 18 gallons. Very snug. I found it on craigslist for $20 a while back. Can't beat that.

I decided to put shims under it, so that water coming from the deck towards the bilge has an unobstructed path to get there:

 

[Watermann]

Looking good :thumb:

That's a wise move to shim the tank off the deck, did you put neoprene padding in between the shims and the tank bottom?

 

[mbroughton02]

did you put neoprene padding in between the shims and the tank bottom?

No. Should I? I noticed it in a few threads where the tank was sitting on bare aluminum. What's the purpose?

 

[Watermann]

Strapped down and the fuel weight of the poly or AL tank on a hard surface sooner or later there will be abrasion and wearing into the tank. Not so much to worry about on a removable tank but one that's permanent it needs padding between the surfaces. I know your tank is above deck but it is kind of permanent and think it would be a good idea to pad it.

Here's a pic of my fuel tank bed in the SS with about 10 times the added neoprene as the factory laid in there. Overkill on anything fuel related is just a good idea in my book. The reason for the chevron pattern is for water movement, at the aft end of the bed is a drain hole in the bulkhead.

 

[mbroughton02]

Got the motor installed this weekend. Then I hooked up the steering and it is super stiff. It wasn't like that before I took it apart so I am not sure what happened. I made sure to not bend the steering cable any more than necessary and my helm to gunnel distance is the same as the PO had it. I tried greasing the part where the ram goes in and out and it improved slightly but it's still way too stiff. So unless anyone else has any ideas, I think I need a new steering cable. This one is actually about a foot longer than it needs to be, which is forcing it to bend more sharply than necessary under the splashwell. Oh well. The worst part is that I sealed up the motor mounting bolts really well with 4200 and now I'll have to take them all out to get the steering cable off :grumpy:

Good news is I started the engine on muffs and it really purrs. Took a bit of cranking but it has been sitting in my shed since last February. Once it started it ran smoothly. Pee stream is a bit pathetic so I will definitely be doing the impeller next weekend, as well as changing the oil in the lower unit. If it weren't for the damn steering cable I would have taken it out for a test run.

Strapped down and the fuel weight of the poly or AL tank on a hard surface sooner or later there will be abrasion and wearing into the tank. Not so much to worry about on a removable tank but one that's permanent it needs padding between the surfaces. I know your tank is above deck but it is kind of permanent and think it would be a good idea to pad it.

I thought about the abrasion issue, but I convinced myself that because my shims are pine plywood (which is very soft), I didn't use any neoprene. But you are right, better safe than sorry. I will see if I can wedge some neoprene in there. It's tight, though. Not much vertical clearance at the back of the tank at all.

 

[Pusher]

Could you disconnect the steering cable from the motor? If so, you might try and see if your steering loosens up. You might also try moving the motor freely after disconnecting to see if the problem is there.

Just some thoughts.

 

[mbroughton02]

Could you disconnect the steering cable from the motor? If so, you might try and see if your steering loosens up. You might also try moving the motor freely after disconnecting to see if the problem is there.

Just some thoughts.

Yeah the outboard was turning freely before the steering cable was connected. I will try turning the helm after I disconnect the cable tomorrow just to be positive, but I already ordered the new cable this evening. It was $115. Not awesome but not awful either.

 

[Pusher]

Nice to know the right part is coming :-D

 

[mbroughton02]

Getting closer...

Horn and lights installed:

Controls and dash completed:

Some wiring under the dash. Not as clean as I had dreamed but there's a lot going on under there. I used bus bars to help with distribution to various gauges, switches, etc:

Dash close up:

Installed some cheap speakers in the side panels:

The list is getting shorter.

• Motor- Replace water pump and water intake screen. Change gear oil.
• Polish and install bow railings
• Upholster and install bow back rests and aft side cushions
• Clean up and install ski locker hatch teak and frame
• Install seats
• Starcraft decals
• Registration number & sticker
• Splash?

 

[Candutch]

Coming along nicely! I think you did a great job on the wiring.