1979 18' Starcraft SuperSport Restoration

nrf414

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Feb 16, 2008
Messages
573
Looking sweet. Makes me think i want my blue boat back. I like the way the vinyl came out. Nice work sir.
 

mbroughton02

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Jan 17, 2015
Messages
198
Working on side panels...

I polished the pieces that connect the side panels to the floor. On the right is before, on the left is after. I didn't bother with anything that wouldn't be seen:

Hjvfb0yl.jpg


Went with vinyl channeling for these. Will also use this vinyl for the back sliding doors, the backrests, and part of the bow cushions. At $30/yd it was an expensive decision, but I got turned onto the look of it from a few other rebuilds on this site, and I had to have it!

K4VhDafl.jpg


39fjvOQl.jpg


Set in place but not attached yet:

4CJsOmTl.jpg


The hole is for a speaker.
 
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Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
13,786
Yeah I do like the looks of the vinyl but not the price so much ouch. You really got that toe kick shiny, nice touch.

Do you have like 1/4" batting under the vinyl? I hate drilling holes through that stuff, it makes a big knot so I used a soldering iron to melt a hole down to the ply rather than tearing one with a drill bit.
 

mbroughton02

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Jan 17, 2015
Messages
198
Both side panels are done:

nQkgxUHl.jpg


For the attachment to the toe kick and shelf, rather than riveting through the side panels, I decided to screw into the plywood from the back. I have a 90 degree attachment for my drill which was perfect for the shelf to panel attachment:

t6ujdKfl.jpg


I realize that rivets would be stronger but I feel pretty good about the screws. I used #10 so they are pretty beefy. If they don't hold for whatever reason, I can easily rivet them later. I just want to avoid riveting through the new channeling if I can help it.

Yeah I do like the looks of the vinyl but not the price so much ouch. You really got that toe kick shiny, nice touch.

Do you have like 1/4" batting under the vinyl? I hate drilling holes through that stuff, it makes a big knot so I used a soldering iron to melt a hole down to the ply rather than tearing one with a drill bit.

This channeling has polyester fill, but I did not add any additional foam. I didn't have to drill through the material anywhere, so I'm not sure how well it would work, but I did have to screw through it to attach the toe kick, and fortunately it didn't get all tangled up.
 

ezmobee

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 26, 2007
Messages
23,767
Panels look great. Those screws may back out. Some of mine did. I just reinstall 'em with some Gorilla Glue and they don't come out again.
 

mbroughton02

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jan 17, 2015
Messages
198
Tonight I got this stupid board reinstalled:

q4tBaU8l.jpg


Which involved spending way too much time like this:

BBTLWiXl.jpg


So I celebrated by mocking up my dash with a scrap piece of plywood:

uMsO46Zl.jpg


It's tight, but I wanted to make sure it worked before cutting the real version out of oak.
 

ezmobee

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 26, 2007
Messages
23,767
You mean the board that they clearly started with and then built the rest of the boat around? :lol: Yeah that was fun. I replaced mine with a piece of PVC trim board. I had too much flex in my bow though then especially from the trolling motor so I backed it up with a 2x4 and now it's solid. Your dash looks awesome. I haven't seen that much instrumentation crammed into an SS dash yet!
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
13,786
Tonight I got this stupid board reinstalled:

q4tBaU8l.jpg


I hope you didn't forget to bore the 1" holes in that stupid board so you can run wiring under the gunnels. I made mine out of 3/4" ply and the entire bow cover has 3/4:" under it too. I put the board in first though before anything else.
 

Candutch

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
May 8, 2015
Messages
637
The dash looks great, good job on getting everything on there. I don't know how you managed it, I had a hard enough time with just the Speedo, Tach and some switches. If mine wasn't already done I would steal your design! :)
 

classiccat

"Captain" + Starmada Splash Of The Year 2020
Joined
Dec 20, 2010
Messages
3,412
Got caught-up on your build...someone was busy this winter! Really nice work and attention to detail! :thumb:
 

mbroughton02

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jan 17, 2015
Messages
198
Back doors are done, except they need handles for opening and closing. You can see that I took everyone's suggestions regarding some vents in the doors:

2kwyXpSl.jpg


I used 1" u-channel top and bottom, knowing that my 5/8" plywood would get a lot thicker with the vinyl channeling.

yIk2qSXl.jpg


I used flat head screws and countersunk the holes in the track for the attachment to the floor, so that the screws do not interfere with the doors. It fits snug in the track, maybe a little too snug. Doors are a bit tough to open and close, but I think I'll put some kind of lubricant in the track. Not sure what yet, I need something that will not make a mess on the white vinyl.

Also I put 1/4" aluminum shims under the track:

LaqNpNFl.jpg


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This is to allow water to pass under the doors and to the bilge in the event that the boat takes on a big wave. Not sure what others have done, but this was my method.
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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Jan 12, 2013
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13,786
Nice work there, :thumb: I like the white and the doors being tight is in my book better than loose and no more than you'll be opening them I don't think I would add lube, if anything some car or boat wax would work and not be a mess.

The shims will also allow for some airflow too since fuel vapor is heavier than air it will be at the lowest point.
 

mbroughton02

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jan 17, 2015
Messages
198
Nice work there, :thumb: I like the white and the doors being tight is in my book better than loose and no more than you'll be opening them I don't think I would add lube, if anything some car or boat wax would work and not be a mess.

The shims will also allow for some airflow too since fuel vapor is heavier than air it will be at the lowest point.
Car wax is a good idea!
 

Pusher

Lieutenant
Joined
Sep 2, 2014
Messages
1,273
Anything you use will dry and stick with age. Candle watch or ski wax might last a little longer.

Could you slip the entire door into a u channel and let the door's channel ride inside the floor's channel? I'm thinking your white vinyl (which looks great by the way, vents and all) will turn gray from the aluminum as you use your doors and the boat vibrates on the waves.
 

Tnstratofam

Commander
Joined
Aug 18, 2013
Messages
2,679
I like the look of the white vinyl. It contrasts nicely with the blue.:encouragement:
 

mbroughton02

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jan 17, 2015
Messages
198
Could you slip the entire door into a u channel and let the door's channel ride inside the floor's channel? I'm thinking your white vinyl (which looks great by the way, vents and all) will turn gray from the aluminum as you use your doors and the boat vibrates on the waves.

I thought about something like that, actually, but ultimately decided against it. You are correct that the vinyl that comes into contact with the track will likely turn grey, but in theory that part of the vinyl will always be hidden by the track.
 

Pusher

Lieutenant
Joined
Sep 2, 2014
Messages
1,273
That's​ true, and will look very snappy while doing it too!

I especially like the full frame look with the side channel you put in
 
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