1978 Glastron 175 HPV rebuild

jbcurt00

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Oct 25, 2011
Messages
25,034
Re: 1978 Glastron 175 HPV rebuild

You might have some luck using 1 of these Multi-tools, I used it to uncover all the glassed in nuts & bolts (on the inside of the gunwale) holding my rubrail in place:
Multitool.jpg


It can be slipped under the lip of the top edge of fiberglass above the seacast & cut all along that top edge. Then you may have just enough room & blade length to do the same vertically from the inside of the boat. That may give you just enough separation between seacast & fiberglass to slightly lift the rear of the cap & finish getting the 2 separated. This does mean you've already removed the rubrail all the way around the hull, and removed whatever holds the cap to the hull.

Like I mentioned mine was thru bolted w/ T-bolts that were not visible from the exterior:
Rubrailbolt.jpg

StarboardtransomRubrailbolts.jpg

1960GlastronFireFliterestored28.jpg


Once the rubrail was off, I needed to pull just a few screws from the exterior, remove a couple pcs of trim that were attached the same w/ blind & buried bolts, and then remove the fiberglass tape that was run around the entire interior seam of the hull/cap joint. To prevent damage I removed the thru bolts 1st, in hindsight I probably should have been more aggressive & just removed the tape/resin/thru bolts w/ a grinder all at once, and just replace all the T-bolts. I need to buy more T-bolts anyway, some were rusted/frozen & snapped despite my 'careful' (SLOW) method. I may end up using an entirely different rubrail, since it's thin aluminum only, no vinyl/rubber insert. In a few places I needed to run the multitool @ under the cap lip to separate some random resin that oozed into the hull/cap joint. But eventually:
Bowcaplifted.jpg
 

NWI Boater

Cadet
Joined
Jul 3, 2012
Messages
27
Re: 1978 Glastron 175 HPV rebuild

Hi NWI,

Now that I caught your thread, I need to read through it...as soon as I get caught up, I will help any way I can...

Gotta go to work right now, till then,

GT1M

Looking forward to your feedback, GT!!
 

GT1000000

Rear Admiral
Joined
Jul 13, 2011
Messages
4,916
Re: 1978 Glastron 175 HPV rebuild

Hello again NWI,

I have been kinda slammed myself, lately, but I finally got through most of what you got going on here...

JBCurt has definitely got your back so far...even though he won't admit it, he knows his stuff...

The only way I see of separating the transom is by sheer willpower...some of the suggestions jbc made are pretty much the way to go...

From what I have gathered, this boat has been semi-done before, but its age would indicate to me that you are definitely in this for the full restoration...

Removing the cap is your best bet, to make sure that everything inside, structurally is 100% sound...no sense doing a half-hearted job at this point...

I believe jbc mentioned the use of a sawzall...you could start out with a short blade and get it started in between the skin and the transom, then use a longer blade, to get in deeper...you will probably be removing the seacast completely, since it seems that is affecting the shape of the hull, and keeping it from aligning properly...you will have to do a similar type operation between the outer hull skin and the seacast...this is probably not going to be an easy task at all, but patience and perseverance will help, along with some prayer and cussing...:rolleyes:...

All that cracking in the hull is going to have to be addressed...and that is definitely going to require you install a new transom...I don't know of any way of making what is there work...at least not safely and correctly...

In an absolute worse case scenario, you could use a grinder with a cut-off wheel, or the oscillating tool jbc showed you, to cut around the inner skin and get the cap separated that way...

Fortunately, since this is a fiberglass boat, anything can be repaired or rebuilt...even the outer hull skin...

There is plenty of information here available to tackle anything that might come up...

I remember you asking about a piece of structure that ran across the lower inside against the transom...on mine it is a bit bigger and higher up, but that basically looks like a crossbrace and helps to distribute the load imparted by the engine...

If you have the time and the inclination, you can read through some of my thread {see my signature below and click on the link}, and get some better ideas as to what lays ahead...

Another great place to do some reading is in this link... http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=288451 ...

# 11 and # 15 are some amazing restoration threads...

The rest of that link has tons of information all relating to restoring our boats...I try to use it as a reference, constantly...

Remember before you completely remove the cap to take lots of pics and measurements...

Once you get the cap off, and get ready to start rebuilding, we will deal with getting the cap to fit properly...

In the most basic sense, the cap is your guide to the dimensions of the hull...before you tear out the old stuff in the hull, you will need to support it properly and maybe be able to get it pulled back into shape at that time, also...

As far as attempting to redesign the set-back on the transom, I personally would not go there...besides affecting the balance of the boat, it may affect the integrity of it...plus, it would be a lot of extra work re doing the hull...

I am not sure if I covered most of your questions and concerns, but just keep posting up your progress, pics and questions...and we'll get some answers for you...

Oh and very important, make sure you have all your PPE {Personal Protective Equipment}...fiberglass dust is quite UN-forgiving to our health...

Best of Luck,
GT1M
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,927
Re: 1978 Glastron 175 HPV rebuild

As I indicated in my PM's to you, since the PO did a horrible job of fitting and fabrication, you will have to cut what ever is necessary to free the cap. It can all be glass and fixed when it's time to re-attach it. For now, you must determine the areas that are still holding it and cut them free. Whatever it takes. We cannot tell you exactly since it's not factory but the misdeeds of the PO that are causing the issues.
 

NWI Boater

Cadet
Joined
Jul 3, 2012
Messages
27
Re: 1978 Glastron 175 HPV rebuild

Well, at long last, the cap is FREE!!

I had to sacrifice some of the splashwell because try as I might, I could not get a tool underneath to cut it loose.

I do think I discovered why the cap wouldn't fit back on after the Seacast pour. In one photo, you can see I've annotated the original top of the outer skin (and transom). You can see they poured the Seacast 3/4-1" higher than that, so no way was the cap going back on without some modification for this difference.

I've yet to determine whether the Seacast goes all the way down, but I do see voids and wood particles in the Seacast, so that tells me they did not clean out the channel before pouring and there may still be old wood at the bottom. Once I pull the cap, I will be able to tell. For now, I am leery to pull the cap until I get some more measurements and brace the hull so it doesn't flex when I pull the stringers.

Thanks so much for everyone's help so far. I was definitely perplexed, but see what's ahead of me now.

Transom Port Side1.jpgTransom1.jpgTransom2.jpgTrasnom Bowed.jpg
 

NWI Boater

Cadet
Joined
Jul 3, 2012
Messages
27
Re: 1978 Glastron 175 HPV rebuild

I also realized that I have not shown any interior pictures of the Glastron, so here are some additional demolition pics. You can see there is absolutely no foam in the hull between the stringers. One of the previous owners also cut the fiberglass seats in front of the dual consoles, so those will definitely be replaced. The aft deck is in pretty good shape and I may just leave that configuration because it's all part of the cap. Although, there is very little room behind the driver console. There was originally a bench seat in front of the aft deck, but I think I will go with two pedestal seats instead, which allows me to move them back a bit.

Stringers are in pretty good shape from the middle forward, but are shot in the back. There's a nice ski locker that fits between the stringers that will be reused. The plywood sidewalls (gunwales?) are also in pretty bad shape, and I do think I feel foam between the gunwales and the hull. It appears to be dry, but not sure I can salvage it if I tear out the plywood.

Starting to think about all the things I need to start glassing, even though I know I'm still a few weeks out from that. I just want to get my wish list together so I don't have to wait until the last second to buy.

Question: I've seen others ask what their glass boats are made of, poly or other? I've looked online and cannot find the answer to that question for this boat. How do I find out and why does it matter?

Thanks.

Bob


Aft Deck.jpgFront Deck.jpgTop View of Front.jpg
 

GT1000000

Rear Admiral
Joined
Jul 13, 2011
Messages
4,916
Re: 1978 Glastron 175 HPV rebuild

Congratulations! Definitely a good thing to remove what looks like a badly done attempt at pouring a seacast transom...
Unfortunately the PO used what could have been an excellent permanent product as a band-aid, instead of having done it up right...

Oh well...

When you re do everything it will be a much better looking and functioning boat.

Looks like it is made with polyurethane resin...the main reason boat builders use it is because of cost, speed and strength.

The only time it matters is if you are rebuilding a boat made with epoxy resin, you can not use poly over it...otherwise, no worries...

Once you get into some serious demolition, you can determine if you can sister the stringers or if it would be best to just remove them and make/install new ones...
 

jbcurt00

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Oct 25, 2011
Messages
25,034
Re: 1978 Glastron 175 HPV rebuild

Looks like it is made with polyurethane resin...the main reason boat builders use it is because of cost, speed and strength. The only time it matters is if you are rebuilding a boat made with epoxy resin, you can not use poly over it...otherwise, no worries...

I think GT meant PolyESTER resin:) Polyurethane makes a great wood finish & really great skateboard wheels:D


Oh, yes, sins of a PO:facepalm: Makes me a tad ill to look at some of the older boats in the water @WV & think about all the 1/2 arse'd stuff I see right out in the open & not buried under a bright & shiny 'fully restored' boat's 'glass.............Yikes, pass the pepto
 

NWI Boater

Cadet
Joined
Jul 3, 2012
Messages
27
Re: 1978 Glastron 175 HPV rebuild

Once you get into some serious demolition, you can determine if you can sister the stringers or if it would be best to just remove them and make/install new ones...

You can see in the front where they sistered in a few pieces against the stringer for support. Nothing like that has been done in the back, but the area where the batteries were sitting was totally rotted, so unless I find a surprise with the existing stringers back there, it's all coming out.

One more question for future planning. The old gas tank is 25 gallons!! It is quite rusted and I am thinking about replacing it with a smaller tank. For cruising around smaller lakes and such, is a 15 gallon sufficient? The motor is an (early 80's??) Evinrude 150HP V6 VRO. Could I go even smaller? Just thinking of valuable real estate in the back.
 

NWI Boater

Cadet
Joined
Jul 3, 2012
Messages
27
Re: 1978 Glastron 175 HPV rebuild

Oh, yes, sins of a PO:facepalm: Makes me a tad ill to look at some of the older boats in the water @WV & think about all the 1/2 arse'd stuff I see right out in the open & not buried under a bright & shiny 'fully restored' boat's 'glass.............Yikes, pass the pepto

Yep, hindsight is 20/20 on this one, but I'm enjoying the learning process and the fact that I'll also be teaching my son (13) a few things along the way. Not to mention, I'll be able to truly call it mine at the end of it all. Nobody else's mistakes.
 

NWI Boater

Cadet
Joined
Jul 3, 2012
Messages
27
Re: 1978 Glastron 175 HPV rebuild

I'm at the point where I need a little guidance as I'm ready to purchase materials for glassing and stringers. The existing stringers in my boat are 3/4" thick. Is it acceptable to use 3/4" exterior grade plywood for these? I've seen a lot of posters going with 1" stringers. I suppose two glued 1/2" plywood pieces would work as well.

Going to go with US Composites for my glassing supplies. My boat is approximately 6' wide by 18' long, although the decking will not be the full length of the boat. I've also read that you can poly resin the bottom and sides of the plywood deck and then glass the top with cloth (CSM or 1708?).

What weight CSM should I be looking at and are there any guidelines for how much to get?
1708 biaxial cloth - how much? would 25 yards. Is it worth getting some of the 6" wide rolls or just cut it myself if needed?

Poly resin - Going with the 435 marine grade poly resin. Starting with a 5 gallon bucket, but assuming I may need more.
MEKP Hardener - Looks like 1 gal resin needs only 1 oz hardener, so I may just go with 8 oz to begin.

Peanut butter - What else is needed and in what quantities? Cabosil? 3M glass beads? Chopped strands (1/4" or 1/2")?

Last question (for now) - The Seacast transom was poured to 1 1/2" in this boat. Unfortunately, as you know, it was installed incorrectly and is coming out (slowly, but surely). Should I be going with a 2" plywood transom?
 

glnbnz

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Oct 4, 2011
Messages
458
Re: 1978 Glastron 175 HPV rebuild

I'm at the point where I need a little guidance as I'm ready to purchase materials for glassing and stringers. The existing stringers in my boat are 3/4" thick. Is it acceptable to use 3/4" exterior grade plywood for these? I've seen a lot of posters going with 1" stringers. I suppose two glued 1/2" plywood pieces would work as well.

Going to go with US Composites for my glassing supplies. My boat is approximately 6' wide by 18' long, although the decking will not be the full length of the boat. I've also read that you can poly resin the bottom and sides of the plywood deck and then glass the top with cloth (CSM or 1708?).

What weight CSM should I be looking at and are there any guidelines for how much to get?
1708 biaxial cloth - how much? would 25 yards. Is it worth getting some of the 6" wide rolls or just cut it myself if needed?

Poly resin - Going with the 435 marine grade poly resin. Starting with a 5 gallon bucket, but assuming I may need more.
MEKP Hardener - Looks like 1 gal resin needs only 1 oz hardener, so I may just go with 8 oz to begin.


Peanut butter - What else is needed and in what quantities? Cabosil? 3M glass beads? Chopped strands (1/4" or 1/2")?

Last question (for now) - The Seacast transom was poured to 1 1/2" in this boat. Unfortunately, as you know, it was installed incorrectly and is coming out (slowly, but surely). Should I be going with a 2" plywood transom?


They will send MEKP with your 5 gallon bucket, but do yourself a favor...when you go to mix it use the metric system. I read from opps that at 1% hardener your fiberglass will be very strong at .9% not very strong. My mix worked much better when I started using the metric system. Get yourself some syringes for small batches of glass. 1cc = 1ml Good luck
 

NWI Boater

Cadet
Joined
Jul 3, 2012
Messages
27
Re: 1978 Glastron 175 HPV rebuild

They will send MEKP with your 5 gallon bucket, but do yourself a favor...when you go to mix it use the metric system. I read from opps that at 1% hardener your fiberglass will be very strong at .9% not very strong. My mix worked much better when I started using the metric system. Get yourself some syringes for small batches of glass. 1cc = 1ml Good luck

Good to know that I can take MEKP off my list. Thanks!! Wife is an RN, so I should be able to land a few syringes for measuring.
 

jbcurt00

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Oct 25, 2011
Messages
25,034
Re: 1978 Glastron 175 HPV rebuild

Good to know that I can take MEKP off my list. Thanks!! Wife is an RN, so I should be able to land a few syringes for measuring.

I think MEKP comes with the resin from some suppliers, others it does not, make sure US Comp does include it. And MEKP seems to go quicker then the resin. Temp & humidity affect how fast the resin kicks once mixed, so it will be some trial & error. If you try to do most of your layups wet on wet, laying a 2nd layer as soon as the 1st tacks over, you may not have much left over mixed resin after a layup. If you do have left over mixed, try to have some odd parts & pieces needing resin ready to go w/ cut cloth to use up the excess. You also want to coat bare ply w/ resin 1st, let it tack over then start your layups of glass & resin. The uncoated ply & the 1st layer of CSM will both attempt to wick the resin away from the other, weakening the wood/resin/glass bond.

How thick is the exterior glass skin on the transom? The area of splashwell you removed will need to be redone, how thick was the vertical face piece that you removed?

Those ^^ measurements are for reference, most ply transom's are 1 1/2" +/- just a little. Normally, 2 layers of 3/4" ply are glued together w/ PL or TiteBond3. Drill holes in 1 of the pieces, that will allow glue & air to escape when you clamp/screw the 2pcs together.....

The clamps on your motor is the limiting factor on the total transom thickness.
 

NWI Boater

Cadet
Joined
Jul 3, 2012
Messages
27
Re: 1978 Glastron 175 HPV rebuild

How thick is the exterior glass skin on the transom? The area of splashwell you removed will need to be redone, how thick was the vertical face piece that you removed?

The outer skin and the splashwell area are about 1/4" thick.

The clamps on your motor is the limiting factor on the total transom thickness.

I don't actually have a clamp on the motor. It's bolted to the power trim unit, which, at the top, measures a full 3". It has a couple lips that hang over the splashwell (picture attached). You can see I've got it mounted on a stand that has a standard 2x4 and could easily back it with another 2x4 to make up the thickness. I can't imagine putting a 3" transom in this boat. You'd be stuck with this power trim unit. The PO definitely did not have a transom that took up the whole thickness. It was just bolted in 4 places on the transom. I guess if I went with a 2" transom, plus 1/2" for the inner and out skins, I would just need a 1/2" brace for the power trim overhang.

Motor mount.jpg
 

jbcurt00

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Oct 25, 2011
Messages
25,034
Re: 1978 Glastron 175 HPV rebuild

Go w/ 2X 3/4" ply. Most OB have 1/4" glass skin X2 (in & out) and 1 1/2" ply transom.

I meant if you wanted to go 2" thick you could depending on the motor setup.

My Merc's have the C-clamp style clamps & might not fit over a 2" transom after you add the 1/2" for glass. And the Mercs still have thru bolt holes as well.

Thinking ahead to a possible buyer is good, as long as it still meets your goals. Which in this case those 2 things agree.
 
Top