evinrude2323
Seaman
- Joined
- Nov 11, 2024
- Messages
- 52
Nevermind! Alarm is working!
I’m starting to think it was a combo of the previous owner closing the choke flaps, pouring too much oil in his gas mix, then dumping an entire bottle of seafoam in as well to clean the carbs. I’ve since got it attached to a new gas tank and it’s been great since I opened the carbs. And again the alarm works just tested it!Slide rubber boot back to expose the metal connecter.-----Turn key to on.----Touch metal connecter to ground.----Horn should sound.----And no need to open throttle to do a compression test on that simple motor.
the alarm should sound around 196-210f with the solid tan temp wire. the later blue striped ones are closed around 240f. if it closed at 140-150f, you'd be driving around with a constant alarm!The alarm sensor, which is just an automatic switch that grounds the horn located up at the box or dash when your motor reaches 145 to 150 degrees, is located with the right arrow. Pull apart the black rubber cover on the wire or stick something long and skinny that's metal in it and ground it to anything on the motor with the key on.
If it doesn't chime out then you must "hot wire" the small horn (buzzer) that's in the control box or under the dash to test that it's working.
Assuming you have a white control box with a rather large red plug back at the motor?
lol that would not be ideal!!! You guys are awesome I appreciate all the help from everyone. Making my life easier.the alarm should sound around 196-210f with the solid tan temp wire. the later blue striped ones are closed around 240f. if it closed at 140-150f, you'd be driving around with a constant alarm!
not sure if i am the other guy, but i was saying the temp sender wont close until 190-210f on this motor. head temp should be 125-152.5f at the top of the head at 900rpm yes.Your temp wire and horn are working.....but you don't know if your temp sender is.
It's probably fine but buy a cheap IR gun at harbor freight and shoot the top of the head after warm up. Poor man's method is to put your hand on top of the head....should be hot but not scalding.
IR gun shouldn't read much more than 150 or so. Not sure what the other guy says but he's not talking head temp.
After you take it out and clear it out, remove the plugs and clean them and run some carbon guard through it.
Buy top of the line oil and mix carefully.
There is another forum for your Honda.
there are 2 main units: early model and 1991-up fastrak. 115hp and 120hp were made for many years and completely different motors, but 1991-up took fastrak and 1978-1990 had the older style. does your trim unit have 1 big pin at the bottom, or 3 bolts each side? yours is the 3 bolt oneHi everyone,
I purchased a trim unit as I don’t have one in my boat. It came off a 115/120hp evinrude. I thought it would fit and it looks like it will but it’s just barely too large to slide ito place. Is this going to work out for me? I am trying to think if it could work. No worries if it won’t but it’s so close and the hydraulics all want to line up.
Here’s some photos: it’s the width of it that I’m having trouble fitting into the cavity by the transom. Not sure if I have to remove some parts first to get it in or what.there are 2 main units: early model and 1991-up fastrak. 115hp and 120hp were made for many years and completely different motors, but 1991-up took fastrak and 1978-1990 had the older style. does your trim unit have 1 big pin at the bottom, or 3 bolts each side? yours is the 3 bolt one
Motor is still on the boat. Where are the tilt tube nuts? So I pull the motor to install this?I assume motor is off the boat and you have loosened the tilt tube nuts?