1978 Chrysler Bass Runner 85

[wilsek]

I recently bought an old bass boat that needs some work. Apparently the previous owner did not know what he was doing in trying to fix things. Well when I got it, it was basically bare bones. The following need replacement: 4 seats, all deck wood, and carpet. The electrical system looks like a 5 year old hooked it up. The batteries, gas tank, any pumps, have all been removed. I have a "bird's nest" of wiring that I have no idea where to start on. The good is that the engine runs good, the boat floats, and the fiberglass is in good shape.

I was planning to do a complete re wire on the boat. Starting from the motor going to the steering. It appears that something went wrong at some point and he bypassed the ignition to do a direct start. The ignition key is missing. Not sure if anything is wrong with the throttle or steering.

Basically here is what i want to do. I want to re wire the entire boat. I need to wire for bow and stern lights, a bilge pump, a livewell pump, a horn, and replace the speedometer. Not sure how to hookup a livewell. There is one in the front and back of the boat. There is a drain for the back one, but the front one is full of water so I am not sure yet if it even has a drain.

I feel pretty confident that I can no the wood and carpet without a problem. My main focus is electrical. I don't know what type of wire to use. I am planning to buy a switch panel to put on the dash to be able to turn things on/off.

Where do I need to start?

 

[oohsparkly]

Re: 1978 Chrysler Bass Runner 85

im going through the same thing, hope i can help. im sure some of these other guys can chime in WRT boats as my experience is in DC robotics and automation, but a lot of it should carry

first thing i did was plan out my circuits... in my case i wanted an always hot circuit (call it 12V0 for example), a keyed circuit (12V1), a field device (lights, bilge, etc) circuit (12V2), and then a separate fishfinder circuit (12V3) because of the noise i would encounter if it went on the same circuit as a bilge pump. ground (in this case called "common") is the same for all of them.

then take your devices that will be on the same circuit and add up their amperage. if you have 2 bilges using 1.5 amps, that circuit needs to be rated for at least 3 amps, which dictates a certain size wire. you should have a fuse or breaker to protect the wire rated about 10% higher than your maximum load. a 3.5 amp fuse or breaker would do the trick in our hypothetical circuit.

as i said, the function of the fuse or breaker is to protect your wire insulation. it will break the circuit if you start to draw more current than the fuse or breaker can safely handle, and should be slightly lower current rated than your wire. that circuit didnt break under excessive load your insulation could potentially catch on fire.

now, the construction is up to you. i like organization so i used small plastic watertight enclosures to hold the busbars and terminal blocks that distribute the current. you can get them from radio shack or electrical supply houses. i have a main bus near the batteries that distributes power throughout the boat, then a secondary bus in the console that further distributes power to my switch panel. in the console i have switches for both bilges, both livewell fillers, both livewell recirculators, courtesy and navigation lights, and finally a main power switch. because of all those devices i have 10 gauge wire leaving the main bus to the secondary.

ready made switch panels are nice because they usually have integrated fuses. that eliminates the need to add a breaker or inline fuse holder, and secondly consolidates your fuses so you arent ripping apart your compartments when one blows. the only negative is that they are somewhat expensive, and you get what you pay for. the cheap ones have terrible reviews.

WRT your livewells... i have a feeling that the drains are calbe controlled so theres likely no electrical hookup there. however there will be a pump that pumps water in... opposite of a bilge pump.

lastly i want to mention voltage drop, which you will run into being that boats are almost exclusively DC. drop is relative to the length of your run, the size of the current, and the size of the conductor. you want higher current devices to be as close to the power source as possible.

 

[oohsparkly]

Re: 1978 Chrysler Bass Runner 85

here's what most people refer to for determining wire size:
http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm

most people here will tell you to use fully tinned wire because it will not corrode inside the insulation like copper. i can tell you from experience that its true so that would be a prudent choice.

here's what i used as an enclosure:

 

[wilsek]

Re: 1978 Chrysler Bass Runner 85

I began replacing the wood on the compartment covers, only to find out he floor was rotted out. I started replacing the floor without a real problem. I managed to figure out the wiring for the pumps and lights I needed to install. I bought all new seats. I was about ready to install carpet and try its first day in the water. Then I discovered the interior transom was completely shot. The wood was so far gone that is is black and falling apart.

In talking with people I know, I have been told the easiest thing is to separate the top and bottom shell to replace the wood in one piece. Any idea how difficult this process is?

My first obstacle is to figure out how to get the motor off and what to do with it while I am working on it. A friend told me to use a tree limb to hoist it off the boat and just leave it hang there.

I think all this work will be worth it in the end, but this project is definitely turning out to be more than I anticipated.

 

[jonesg]

Re: 1978 Chrysler Bass Runner 85

Yep, any boat this old is completely rotted to mush unless proven otherwise or you pulled it out of a boat museum.
Its 100% predictable , its normal in fact.
The last thing to go is the fiberglass.

Tell us how big the boat is, how big the engine is, internal below deck gas tank?
It will need all new wiring and plumbing too.
The floor will very likely have to come out again to replace the stringers if the transom is shot.
If it has foam that will be trash, full of water. It needs gutting out.

In which case popping the cap is quicker and easier , if you have a bunk trailer that will hold the hull shape whilst replacing stringers.
Measure the hull width near the transom before removing the cap so you can hold it when installing the transom, otherwise the cap will not fit.
Once you get a mental picture and chain of events in mind its not so daunting.