1978 22' V5 Super Sport CC

strov68

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
May 19, 2011
Messages
45
Ok here we go....

After having an old fiberglass I/O boat in the past I knew for my next boat I wanted an aluminum boat with an outboard. After reading through a bunch of the awesome rebuild threads here I decided to start looking for an old starcraft and this big V5 popped up 20 min away on facebook marketplace for cheap and I had to snag it quick! It was part of an estate sale where the gentleman had passed away. That being said I have no idea what condition the motors are in and I had to look at it in the dark with old torn shrinkwrap somewhat coving the boat, but the price was right.

Here are the first pics after getting it home the next day.
PXL_20201209_212923542.jpgPXL_20201209_213432881.jpgPXL_20201209_213501390.jpg

This was back in December and I have been tearing it down slowly when time and weather permits.
 

mattsteg

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Mar 25, 2019
Messages
177
Nice base to work from! Is it a factory CC (mariner) or modified supersport (dual console)?

You'll want more motor anyway, but the big V5 hulls are great.
 

strov68

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
May 19, 2011
Messages
45
The plate says super sport but I have seen a couple SS to mariner conversions that look the exact same so maybe it was some sort of option? Either way I think I am going to rebuild it as a CC with a bimini unless I find a smoking deal on a wide enough walk through windshield. Then I might make it into a dual console with higher consoles and a bow casting deck.

As for the motor, I am going to run the 85 assuming it runs good until I can find a good deal on something used around 150 hp. I know the 85 will be under powered, but I don't have a big budget either.
 

SHSU

Lieutenant Junior+Starmada Splash Of The Year 2019
Joined
Mar 8, 2017
Messages
1,725
Welcome to the Starmada!!!

Awesome find sir!!!

I am sure others will be along too. Sounds like you have already started tear down, are you planning on keeping it a center console?

SHSU
 

mattsteg

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Mar 25, 2019
Messages
177
The plate says super sport but I have seen a couple SS to mariner conversions that look the exact same so maybe it was some sort of option? Either way I think I am going to rebuild it as a CC with a bimini unless I find a smoking deal on a wide enough walk through windshield. Then I might make it into a dual console with higher consoles and a bow casting deck.

As for the motor, I am going to run the 85 assuming it runs good until I can find a good deal on something used around 150 hp. I know the 85 will be under powered, but I don't have a big budget either.
It should be rated up to 240...no need to stop at 150!

Interesting clamshell vent placements
 

MNhunter1

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
May 12, 2014
Messages
1,053
Likely converted from the dual consoles with the V5 SS plate. Not sure they ever produced a V5 CC from the factory, but I sure like it. You can see the side console mounting bracket still on the starboard side, but the front deck and console look to be standard Starcraft CC/MR/Mariner configurations. Not sure what is going on with that extender trailer coupler and the splashwell looks like it might have been modified a bit, but man that is a great hull and what I'd wish for if I had the space for it.

Great find, and I'd definitely build it back out as a CC.
 

strov68

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
May 19, 2011
Messages
45
It should be rated up to 240...no need to stop at 150!

Interesting clamshell vent placements
Yeah, cost is the limiting factor on why I said around 150. Seems to be more used options closer to my price.

Those vents had me puzzled too especially since the front ones didn't even have cut out openings under them.
 

strov68

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
May 19, 2011
Messages
45
Likely converted from the dual consoles with the V5 SS plate. Not sure they ever produced a V5 CC from the factory, but I sure like it. You can see the side console mounting bracket still on the starboard side, but the front deck and console look to be standard Starcraft CC/MR/Mariner configurations. Not sure what is going on with that extender trailer coupler and the splashwell looks like it might have been modified a bit, but man that is a great hull and what I'd wish for if I had the space for it.

Great find, and I'd definitely build it back out as a CC.
The trailer looks weird because it is a magic tilt trailer, so it splits and kind of folds I guess for super shallow ramps. Looks like a previous owner welded tabs on it so it doesn't anymore
 

strov68

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
May 19, 2011
Messages
45
Ok so here are some more pics of when I got it and tearing it down...

PXL_20201210_211832819.MP.jpg
Going to try and replace as many as these blind rivets as I can (there are a lot), especially on the main seams and structural parts.

PXL_20210203_190121617.jpgPXL_20210203_190127047.jpgPXL_20210203_190138428.jpg
Gunnels are in rough shape with lots of old mounting holes and rod holder holes. I will probably use some of the rod holder holes again and my plan was to put a new sheet of aluminum under the splash well section and fill the holes with PC-11 or JB weld. I figured underneath it wouldn't interfere with the rubrail and would look cleaner.

PXL_20210203_190201240.jpg
Gonna have to deal with this dent in the rubrail channel and the corresponding wrinkle in the gunnel above it.

PXL_20210203_202628500.jpg
Thankfully no pour in foam on this model year! Just a couple spots of that great stuff can foam here and 2 sections by the transom.
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
13,787
Welcome to the Starmada, great find and not all can be an original perfect garage find. Some people shouldn't own a drill or sawzall. :rolleyes:

The more 78's I see worked on the more I realize that SC had a solid rivet issue that year, my 78 V5 needed a bunch of rivets replaced, I lost count after a few hundred.

I hope your fuel tank fares better than mine did, it was full of holes from the inside out.
 

mattsteg

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Mar 25, 2019
Messages
177
Yeah, cost is the limiting factor on why I said around 150. Seems to be more used options closer to my price.

Those vents had me puzzled too especially since the front ones didn't even have cut out openings under them.
Maybe a sweet 235 will pop up? Never know. The vents look like the original ones starcraft used...I'm missing one on my sterndrive V5 that I'll probably just replace with something close unless I can find a match.

Maybe yours was an outboard conversion from IO? Does the model nameplate say IO or OB, or not specify? Maybe they just took the vents and stuck them whereever there was room for "safekeeping"?
 

strov68

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
May 19, 2011
Messages
45
Welcome to the Starmada, great find and not all can be an original perfect garage find. Some people shouldn't own a drill or sawzall. :rolleyes:

The more 78's I see worked on the more I realize that SC had a solid rivet issue that year, my 78 V5 needed a bunch of rivets replaced, I lost count after a few hundred.

I hope your fuel tank fares better than mine did, it was full of holes from the inside out.
I hope so too! šŸ¤ž Although I like the thought of a worry free nice new plastic tank, I really don't like the thought of that expense and hassle finding one that fits. I will make sure to check this one thoroughly before it gets put back in.
 

strov68

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
May 19, 2011
Messages
45
Maybe a sweet 235 will pop up? Never know. The vents look like the original ones starcraft used...I'm missing one on my sterndrive V5 that I'll probably just replace with something close unless I can find a match.

Maybe yours was an outboard conversion from IO? Does the model nameplate say IO or OB, or not specify? Maybe they just took the vents and stuck them whereever there was room for "safekeeping"?
The plate says OB so who knows on the vents especially since 2 were there just for show.
PXL_20201210_204525757.MP.jpg
 

strov68

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
May 19, 2011
Messages
45
PXL_20210203_210433438.MP.jpgPXL_20210223_200220452.MP.jpg
Gas tank wood support was a lump of frozen mulch and foam pellets.
PXL_20210224_205828962.MP.jpg
The rubrail and outer channel put up a good fight with cover snaps binding the rubrail and several stripped machine screws. Then it was off with the splash well and wood transom pad where I saw what I was fearing the most...
PXL_20210301_202114860.MP.jpg
Bad pitting all the way thru. I knew that this boat was in Florida during its life with the trailer being from there and the stick on fish ruler with salt water species from the intercoastal waterway and gulf still in the boat. So far this is the only bad corrosion I have found. The inside of the hull looks good, but I will know for sure after I strip the paint off the bottom of the hull.
 

SHSU

Lieutenant Junior+Starmada Splash Of The Year 2019
Joined
Mar 8, 2017
Messages
1,725
Bad pitting all the way thru. I knew that this boat was in Florida during its life with the trailer being from there and the stick on fish ruler with salt water species from the intercoastal waterway and gulf still in the boat. So far this is the only bad corrosion I have found. The inside of the hull looks good, but I will know for sure after I strip the paint off the bottom of the hull.

Not the best nor the worst pitting we have seen. With its location at the motor mount you could add an additional sheet to just patch/cover that area. That would help add strength and protection.

SHSU
 

strov68

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
May 19, 2011
Messages
45
Not the best nor the worst pitting we have seen. With its location at the motor mount you could add an additional sheet to just patch/cover that area. That would help add strength and protection.

SHSU
That is my plan and thankfully it is all behind where the wood motor pad was. Thinking I am just going to replace the wood with 1/4" aluminum plate instead.
 

SHSU

Lieutenant Junior+Starmada Splash Of The Year 2019
Joined
Mar 8, 2017
Messages
1,725
That is my plan and thankfully it is all behind where the wood motor pad was. Thinking I am just going to replace the wood with 1/4" aluminum plate instead.
Yep, I would drop the wood and back butter the aluminum plate with 5200.

SHSU
 

strov68

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
May 19, 2011
Messages
45
Yep, I would drop the wood and back butter the aluminum plate with 5200.

SHSU
So would this be the proper steps?
1. Clean corrosion inside and out.
2. Fill pits and holes with PC-11 marine epoxy and sand smooth inside and out.
3. Self-etching primer both sides.
4. Clean metal primer and paint both sides.
5. New sealed transom wood.
6. Aluminum plate with 5200 with notch trowel?
 

SHSU

Lieutenant Junior+Starmada Splash Of The Year 2019
Joined
Mar 8, 2017
Messages
1,725
1. Clean corrosion inside and out. Yes, use a wire wheel and clean entire area that will be covered with the aluminum plate

2. Fill pits and holes with PC-11 marine epoxy and sand smooth inside and out. That or JB Weld would be fine as well

3. Self-etching primer both sides. Don't think its needed if you are going to use the 5200 and bolt the panel to the transom

4. Clean metal primer and paint both sides. Etching primer for the interior should be fine. You going to paint as well?

5. New sealed transom wood. Yep if using epoxy, glass is suggested by some. I did not with mine, but to each their own

6. Aluminum plate with 5200 with notch trowel? Don't know about a notched trowel part, just get a little squeeze out along your edges and bolt holes for the engine should ensure a good seal to prevent any future water from getting in between.

SHSU
 
Top