1977 StarCraft 18' Super Sport Needs Rehab [SPLASHED 2017]

Old Irving

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Nov 29, 2015
Messages
151
Attached are some images from my second day of work on December 28. Took all day to get the engine off the boat and to remove and make a new transom. I cut one piece of 3/4 marine plywood and test fit it then used it as a template for the other piece. Since my garage at home is not heated, I will use the wood shop at the local Park District to glue and epoxy the new transom. Again, it is very easy to make a new transom from basic measurements.

I added the obligatory bent gunnel for transom removal / install which I have seen in everyone's posts.

I discovered the top of the knee brace was broken (see image). Do you think there is still enough strength to support a 90 hp outboard or should I reinforce it, ideas?
 

Decker83

Commander
Joined
Apr 5, 2011
Messages
2,593
Great work.. A lot of people use a piece of angle bolted in with SS screws to fix the knee brace.
Happy New Year..
 

Old Irving

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Nov 29, 2015
Messages
151
What does the group think about one piece of plywood for the bow seating instead of three separate pieces? I also plan on putting in a liftable hatch in the bow seating for extra storage.
 

Tnstratofam

Commander
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Aug 18, 2013
Messages
2,679
I like having three seperate bow cusions because, I use the storage compartments underneath independently. Plus cleaning the bow seats is much easier with three separate ones versus one large one. I also have a removable casting deck on ours that sits under the bow seats. It only rests on the lip around the inside edge under the seats there by still giving me access to the compartments as well as seating up front while under way. The casting deck and seats are compact enough and removable by one person which is a big advantage for me.
 

jbcurt00

Moderator
Staff member
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Oct 25, 2011
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25,034
Irv, if you meant 1 horseshoe shaped single large piece of plywood instead of 3 smaller pieces, sure. It'll take a lot of a 4X8 sheet, 3 small pieces wont use nearly as much. And you could still use separate seat cushions.

If you meant a single large triangle shaped piece that fills the whole bow area, then, no, I wouldnt unless its necessary for your interior remodel.
 

Old Irving

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Nov 29, 2015
Messages
151
Shout out to the Chicago Park District for letting me use one of their woodshops to glue my transom. I will also epoxy there. The admiral already said no to using the basement.
 

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Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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Jan 12, 2013
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13,787
The transom is a substantial step toward the rebuild, now if we could just get you a photobucket account. ;)

fetch
 

Old Irving

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Nov 29, 2015
Messages
151
Thank you for posting Watermann. Some images from gluing the transom last night. I don't think the two pieces will be moving.
IMG_20160107_210541.jpg IMG_20160107_210407.jpg
 

Old Irving

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Nov 29, 2015
Messages
151
Day one of epoxying the transom. Yes, I know I cut one of the sections of plywood a bit too short. I will install the transom then measure out the deck and side panels. IMG_20160111_204940 (1) small.jpg
 

Old Irving

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Nov 29, 2015
Messages
151
Question about the deck. My aft section came out like soil so I could not see if the edges were beveled or not. Are the floor boards angled where they connect to the hull to get riveted in? I will also be measuring the hull for the replacements and I ran across a diagram of the SS 18 deck in this forum but could not read the measurements due to low resolution. Does anyone have a file that can be read?
Thanks for all the help so far.
Bob
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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Jan 12, 2013
Messages
13,787
The decking attaches to the rib ends so it doesn't actually need to touch the sides of the hull, just have enough meat for proper riveting and then there's the side panels that cover over the edges too so they won't be visible.
 

Old Irving

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Nov 29, 2015
Messages
151
I was able to get some work done today. I measured and cut out the deck from 5/8 inch marine plywood. I was able to salvage the old bow deck section and part of the section below it as a template. I think it worked out pretty well. I am going to put a coat of resin on the wood then attach. I will have more questions.

Did anyone else find it weird to be putting the boat together after taking so long to strip it down?

back deck piece.jpg deck boards 1.jpg deck boards 2.jpg
 

Old Irving

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Nov 29, 2015
Messages
151
Thanks for all the advise so far and so I have another question about rivets. I will be ordering rivets soon, and need to verify which ones to order. I know a lot of people order from rivets online. Any other places and do you have product orders so I don't mess up ordering?

1. Hull Exterior (see image) 3/16? wide x 3/8? length aluminum closed end rivets
2. Securing 5/8" plywood deck to hull ribs. 1? length aluminum (3/16 width?) flange head
3. What size rivet to use to secure bow seats and side panels if using 1/4 inch or 5/8 inch plywood.
4. Does anyone have a good method to straighten bent stringers (see photo) hull rivet image.jpg stringer and ribs on hull.jpg
Thanks again, Bob
 
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