The steering is just the standard tilt tube set up right? Disconnect the linkage, loosen the large nut and it pulls right out... if there's enough room and if it's not corroded inside.
I have a question about the types of rivets to use. To install the 5/8 inch wood decking I am looking to use 1 inch x 3/16 width rivets with flange head. Is this correct? Also, I wondered how I was going to place the rivets in the same location as the old holes. I now know this is impossible and I will have to drill new holes.
I also have a few rivets in the hull below the waterline I need to replace. I am going to use aluminum closed head rivets but what length should I use? Also, what size rivets should I use to replace the rivets in the transom? Attached is an image of part of my transom.
Thanks
Also, I wondered how I was going to place the rivets in the same location as the old holes. I now know this is impossible and I will have to drill new holes.
I have not yet tried these blind hole spotters, since my deck replacement will be next spring, but they should work for marking the existing rib end holes for rivets on the bottom of a dry fit deck. You could get a few, put 1 or 2 in the existing holes, carefully put the deck in place, then remove it and drill holes from the bottom at the divots. After the first few, a 3/16 rod in 2 or 3 of the drilled holes in the deck would position it for the rest of the marking and drilling. This is probably not so important for the holes in the stringers, but would help prevent too many holes or mislocation at the rib ends. These are from MSC, but a lot of places have them. If you have a lathe, they are easy to make.
Those rivets would be for the bracket at the bottom where the transom wood rests. Depending on the corrosion present you may not have to remove that bracket. You would want to replace them with solid rivets if removed, 3/16" x 3/8". It didn't sound as though you're going to be using solid rivets when you mentioned using closed end blind rivets.
Finished disconnecting the outboard during the ice storm in NW Indiana. Next is the transom removal. Doesn't look like I will be able to use it as a template, it will be coming out in chunks.
I got a lot done today. Removed 85 hp Mercury and transom. I purchased the 3/4 inch marine plywood in Chicago and drove to 1.5 hours to Indiana in the ice storm to work on the boat. This normally would not be bad but I had to keep the hatch open in my Element because the plywood was two feet too long. I drove with a blanket.
Below are a few of my findings from removing the transom. 1 How could the PO let the transom get this bad. 2 Why did the PO pour epoxy between the wood and aluminum transom. 3 Making a new transom is not too difficult without a template. I just took measurements and made a few adjustments. 4 Measure 8 times and cut once.
I got a lot done today. Removed 85 hp Mercury and transom. I purchased the 3/4 inch marine plywood in Chicago and drove to 1.5 hours to Indiana in the ice storm to work on the boat. This normally would not be bad but I had to keep the hatch open in my Element because the plywood was two feet too long. I drove with a blanket...
I looked but didnt find a pic of the backside, but this is what I did. Red line is split between two pieces. Black box is the joiner piece and screws. I believe I put wood glue or tite bond on before screwing together. Made sure that it would fit under the shelf before screwing too.
