1977 1150 Mercury

[FirstRealBoat]

This is my first large outboard. I have worked on an old Firestone, just did points and cleaned the carb. Nothing major and had pull start, so no ignition stuff.

I'm posting these pictures so you all can see the motor and wiring, hoping that you can tell me what, what is and if you see ANYTHING that needs attention. Some of it looks funny, but I am not sure what I am looking at.

I am still learning to post pictures. First time trying to embed them. Some sizers are better than others, sorry!

 

[FirstRealBoat]

For the love of GOD, I got the darn cables pulled off the motor and put the new ones back into the controller, but CAN'T get the lower cable back on the motor!!!!!

I have been fighting this for 2 hours! What is the trick? The shift arm pushed down, so I hold up on it, but there isn't enough threads on the bolt to thread the nut back onto the stud!

There has to be an easier way to do this.

Plus there was a little silver piece that was on top of the cable end, is that vital?

Thanks for helping a newbie out. At least I started this project and hope to continue, but I'm so frustrated with this cable an AK-47 and couple hundred rounds into the motor and boat would feel great right now!

 

[Chris1956]

The shift lever is spring-loaded. You will need to pull the arm up enough to start the threads of the nut. Tighten it snugly after installing the white plastic fitting, and aluminum "peanut" shaped fitting.

That motor does not have points. The rotor is non-removeable and very fragile. That motor has a battery-powered CDI ignition system.

 

[Faztbullet]

Pic #1... That was the terminal block that stator wires attached to engine harness when new, someone replaced them with the 2 oversized black wires running next to it...
Pic#2...Lose the hose clamps as they can actually cause leaks, use the full circle wire tie for fuel lines....
Pic#3....Boot or coil leaking voltage(spark) and siliconed over which will refail....
Pic#4.. Distributer waaay over greased which will cause problems as in cold weather it will advance slower and in summer it will separate and ooze into cap causing misses and missing spark arrester in cap. Also looks lie white wire rotten.
Pic#5...Mercury kill switch...lose it.

 

[FirstRealBoat]

Pic #1... That was the terminal block that stator wires attached to engine harness when new, someone replaced them with the 2 oversized black wires running next to it...Nothing needs to be done? Just fix electrical tape with heat shrink tubing, or clean it up a bit?
Pic#2...Lose the hose clamps as they can actually cause leaks, use the full circle wire tie for fuel lines....Use the clamps that a tool is needed to squeeze it tight?
Pic#3....Boot or coil leaking voltage(spark) and siliconed over which will refail....HOW DO I FIX THIS?
Pic#4.. Distributer waaay over greased which will cause problems as in cold weather it will advance slower and in summer it will separate and ooze into cap causing misses and missing spark arrester in cap. Also looks lie white wire rotten. Can I just wipe the excess off? Is the spark arrester suppose to go into the open hole? What is my options for the rotten white wire? I actually seen that today when I was pulling the cables to install new ones.
Pic#5...Mercury kill switch...lose it. Is that the green tube looking piece?

Thank you. questions are above in read.

 

[FirstRealBoat]

I have searched and read and can't find what I am looking for, so I'm just going to ask.

Compression test, what is the right way to do one on this outboard? From what I have read the thunderbolt ignition is touchy. Can I just pull the plugs and crank the motor with gauge attached? By pass everything and just put power to the starter contacts and test that way? Not sure how to proceed and want to do this tomorrow morning while I have time, before it gets hot and muggy outside.

Thanks

 

[Chris1956]

Leave the ignition off. Remove the spark plugs. Use a jumper on the starter solenoid to crank the motor, in neutral. In order to test cylinder 6, I installed a brass tee on my compression tester. Alternatively, you can remove the front and real lower cowl support bolts, and the 4 stainless screws on the cowling pieces that says "115 HP". Now push the lower cowl down and stick the compression gauge into the #6 plug hole.

 

[FirstRealBoat]

Just did the test, here are the results and the plugs, how do they look? Results and plugs......


Plugs from left to right 1,2,3,4,5 and 6

 

[FirstRealBoat]

I'm trying to keep all this in one thread or should post a different thread for each issue?

Not it seems I can't get the motor into forward. It goes into neutral fine and reverse fine. Before I took the cables off it shifted fine, now it won't shift even with the cable detached. Where do I need to start with this issue?

I am getting the feeling I will be doing nothing but working on this thing for sometime. I am hoping it will pan out and be a good motor once I get the issue resolved and take care of it.

 

[FirstRealBoat]

Just pulled the LU, not what I was expecting. Looks like piece broken, gasket useless and missing bolts. Wow, what did I get myself into.

Anyone tell me what I am looking.
Thanks

Rubber piece in the exhaust hole is mangled. Like it was rammed back together.



This piece looks broken, but there is no evidence of any pieces inside the LU? If it is broken, it was put in their broken, maybe?







Thanks for looking

 

[Chris1956]

Hang in there. It is not that bad.

Those rubber exhaust gaskets in gearcase picture 1 get mangled all the time. Replace it if you want, it will make little difference, if any.

That black plastic/rubber piece in the gearcase picture 3 is used to move the reverse lock rod up and down, as you shift to lock the motor down in neutral and reverse. It is not used on power trim models.

Do a shift test on the gearcase, now that you have it off. CW from neutral will be forward. The propshaft will ratchet as you turn it CW, and lock to the driveshaft as you turn it CCW. Inspect the gear oil for pieces of metal and water infiltration.

Neutral allow the propshaft to turn both ways

Reverse allows the propshaft to turn 1/4 (aprox) turn in either direction, before it locks to the driveshaft.

You should probably replace the impeller, wearplate and 2 gaskets, before you reinstall the gearcase.

I did not like the look of the spark plug on the far right in your picture. It is very clean. It could (could) mean you are getting some water in the bottom cylinder. The fix is not too bad.

 

[FirstRealBoat]

That black plastic/rubber piece in the gearcase picture 3 is used to move the reverse lock rod up and down, as you shift to lock the motor down in neutral and reverse. It is not used on power trim models. What is the orientation when I install it back into the LU?

Reverse allows the propshaft to turn 1/4 (aprox) turn in either direction, before it locks to the driveshaft. Mine moves more than 1/4", moves more like an inch, but it does lock both directions.

Question are in Red above...Thanks

 

[Chris1956]

#1: Since you want the motor not to be locked down in forward, install the locking cam with the smallest part of the slope in forward. When the locking rod is down, the motor is not locked. If you have power trim, you do not need that cam.

#2: In reverse the propshaft will turn about 1/4 Turn (not inch). So it sounds like your reverse is working fine.

 

[FirstRealBoat]

#1: Since you want the motor not to be locked down in forward, install the locking cam with the smallest part of the slope in forward. When the locking rod is down, the motor is not locked. If you have power trim, you do not need that cam.

#2: In reverse the propshaft will turn about 1/4 Turn (not inch). So it sounds like your reverse is working fine.

Thanks that makes since. I miss read the 1/4 turn post....lol

Once I get the water pump repair kit, from here of course, what are the things I need to look out for when putting the lower unit back on?

Thanks

 

[FirstRealBoat]

Pic #1... That was the terminal block that stator wires attached to engine harness when new, someone replaced them with the 2 oversized black wires running next to it...
Pic#2...Lose the hose clamps as they can actually cause leaks, use the full circle wire tie for fuel lines....
Pic#3....Boot or coil leaking voltage(spark) and siliconed over which will refail....
Pic#4.. Distributer waaay over greased which will cause problems as in cold weather it will advance slower and in summer it will separate and ooze into cap causing misses and missing spark arrester in cap. Also looks lie white wire rotten.
Pic#5...Mercury kill switch...lose it.

Pic #1... .Nothing needs to be done? Just fix electrical tape with heat shrink tubing, or clean it up a bit?
Pic#2...Use the clamps that a tool is needed to squeeze it tight?
Pic#3.....HOW DO I FIX THIS?
Pic#4.. Can I just wipe the excess off? Is the spark arrester suppose to go into the open hole? What is my options for the rotten white wire? I actually seen that today when I was pulling the cables to install new ones.
Pic#5... Is that the green tube looking piece?

 

[FirstRealBoat]

Deleted......original post....I reread my own post and answered that question.

Now I need some advice, please.

While trying to test the shifting of the LU, this is what it is doing:

The prop didn't stop or ratchet at all. I turned shift lever CW and CCW and made do difference. What I did notice, when prop is turning shifting lever/ rod will spin 360 degrees. When the prop isn't spinning it will only turn about 30 degrees off center CW and CCW for a total of 60 degrees of movement.

I don't understand it. When I got the motor, it all shifted and everything worked (except the throttle cable needed replaced).

 

[Chris1956]

Well, your description of the operation of the shift lever, makes it sound like the gearcase is bad. The shift lever will rotate 360*, but the motor should shift F-N-R-N-F, as the shift rod is turned, with definite stops for each position.

 

[FirstRealBoat]

Well, your description of the operation of the shift lever, makes it sound like the gearcase is bad. The shift lever will rotate 360*, but the motor should shift F-N-R-N-F, as the shift rod is turned, with definite stops for each position.

What's that going to cost to fix? Again, I may be doing it wrong, I don't know what I am doing. Learning on the fly, wish someone close would've me about an hour of their time just for basic knowledge......Is this motor worth massing with.

I hate learning these life lessons! Just trying to salvage face if I can, if not it's going to the dump!

 

[Chris1956]

If the gearcase is bad, normally you would look for a used replacement. The cost is usually $350-$500.

 

[FirstRealBoat]

If the gearcase is bad, normally you would look for a used replacement. The cost is usually $350-$500.

Yea, I think I am just going to put this up for sale...Make offer. I'm done with it.

Talked to the wife, we are just going to save and next summer get a boat for the family. Until then, we are just going to hangout with friends on their pontoon and enjoy the water as they invite us to join.

Life lesson #6095: Never trust the seller when buying a boat, unless you know them really well and they are willing to help work on it.....oh well.

Wasted more money on beer in the last 24 months than what I had into it.

Thanks for everyone that posted and offered advice.