1976 Ranger Top Cap Removal

[Phishead]

Hello everyone, this is my first post here but I have been reading a long time. I have a question I can't seem to get answers to because no one wants to be liable I guess. I need to remove the top cap off my 15' 1976 Ranger Bass boat. I am replacing the floor and the foam, a good part of which is underneath the drivers seat and a long locker down the side. I removed the bumper strip and all the rivets as well as the screws to the deck. Ive tried prying the cap up and off but there is foam beneath the top edges holding it also. I know i need to make some cuts in the battery compartment and the livewell to release it completely but i don't want to do that until i really see it separating at the edges and casting deck. Do I just keep prying carefully and cut at the foam as i go? The floor is shot and foam is soaked so I have to do it. I may have to replace stringers too. Everything I read just says "get someone experienced" I'm not afraid of ruining the boat or anything like that, if this becomes a learning experience then so be it. I have removed all the floor and foam I can without removing the top cap, it's not enough. Appreciate any info or tips.

Thank you,

Juan

 

[rosser1]

Re: 1976 Ranger Top Cap Removal

after removing some foam did it dry out any. why is foam soaked? not covered? put out in sun see if that will help dry out remaining foam. you read where all these people tear up floor and boats, but it is not always the answer. pull up wood or fiberglass and wait to see if foam dryes before yoy go farther. but sounds to late. also take plug out ang jack up front of trailer higher than normal and some water will drain that way out plug holes. my floor was bad, pulled up wood and foam was soaked, didn't have time to tear in to foam that night, came home statred to work on it next day all foam way dry as could be!!

 

[Phishead]

Re: 1976 Ranger Top Cap Removal

I have to remove the floor and foam, the floor is shot. It was sitting uncovered for 3 years and had leaves in it. There is no saving the wood floor, so I have to get under that locker and seat to replace it all because it is bad underneath there too and I suspect the stringer will be bad also, I'll check them tomorrow. The water that is in the channels where I have removed foam so far have no way of draining to the back as they are completely glassed in back there. It was my friends boat and never had a problem with water when he was using it, but since it sat uncovered I suspect the rain and leaves. The soft spots that led me down this path were the worst where the leaves were piled highest. I'm just looking for tips on removing the cap, I'm getting it off one way or another. If I just redo the floor without getting the old rotten crap out first, I'll just be in the same boat next year pardon the pun.

 

[D.spencer]

Re: 1976 Ranger Top Cap Removal

How to take the cap off is a complicated question. It depends. Have you removed the rub rail and checked for screws or pop rivits? It would be helpfull to post some pics here for us to see what the difficulty is.

 

[Phishead]

Re: 1976 Ranger Top Cap Removal

Unfortunately I cannot post pics at this time. I have removed the rub rail and all the rivets. There is a live well at the front casting deck, no storage. There is a storage locker all the way down the left side and the cockpit and drivers seat on the right. Behind that is another storage locker directly behind the drivers seat, live well middle back and another seat with storage beneath on left. Behind that is a long lid goes from left to right which allows complete access to the battery and tank storage areas. Gas tanks are portable with a hose and pumping bulb in line. All storage lockers, seats and cockpit are molded as part of the cap the casting deck also. The mold comes down the inside if the boat and flares out over the floor and was screwed down. Im sure this contributed to my floor problem, 40 screws and screw holes not sealed all around the edges on my floor. I have removed them as well. I know I have to cut back in the battery/gas tank storage area as it is all glassed in top, bottom and sides. The storage lockers and seats and cockpit should come with the cap, I think I just need to carefully cut at the foam between cap and hull. Thanks for the help so far.

 

[D.spencer]

Re: 1976 Ranger Top Cap Removal

Most likely there is a strip of fiberglass tape bonding the cap to the hull from the backside so it would not be visible. To check for this, use a small mirror and flashlight to verify. This would have been done at the factory during the build process. If you check out my thread via the link below, you can see how I removed mine with a slightly modified drywall tool-which is extremely valuable for other things as well > I seem to keep finding other uses for it ;scaper-removing old wood it works great, pry tool to move around wood to get something out or back into in position,a wedge, back scratcher,shirt coller holder backer to blow compressed air down back to remove fiberglass dust... anyhoo.... this "tape" could be in addtion to other places that are "bonded".

 

[Phishead]

Re: 1976 Ranger Top Cap Removal

Thanks, Ive read your thread, but I'll read again. I took some pics with my phone, I know they are not the best but its something. I have not removed the motor because it is not tied to the capo in any way. The steering cable goes through the cap and the gauges and throttle and steering are tied to the cap. I'll start removing these once I see the cap is really separating. As it is now I can separate the cap from the hull only about 2" of height around the front edges, something in there is holding, I suspected foam.

 

[Phishead]

Re: 1976 Ranger Top Cap Removal

Ok, I should clarify a little, I am trying to remove the cap with the casting deck intact. I suspect I will have to cut the deck to remove the cap. If I cannot remove the cap with the deck intact I am considering digging around and beneath the seats and locker to remove what I can, then filling with 2 part foam and redecking to original height. This will get me back to that where I am with a good floor. Then I want to add 1/2" ply over the floor and flanges of the cap mold and glass up the sides to make it completely sealed so I dont have to deal with all those screws around the edges of my floor. Any thoughts? The really hard part will be digging everything out. The transom and stringers are good, I checked.

 

[D.spencer]

Re: 1976 Ranger Top Cap Removal

That tool I am talking about is post #8 in my thread. Are you sure the casting deck and the cap is all one piece? I looked at the pics but kinda hard to tell clearly. The thing to remember is to try to figure out how it was originally put together. They had to be able to put it together without it being a major pain in the @ss. I left my front casting deck in mainly because I am "motivationally challenged" to remove it and 2, I was concerned with it changing shape if I did- the hull bowing out or in> although all- thread and nuts can hold it where it is if done prior to cap removal.. The way I look at it is that sometimes, taking something all the way apart is not always the wise thing to do-if it can be worked successfully around.

 

[BassinVt1]

Re: 1976 Ranger Top Cap Removal

the hole front of my tri hull came off with my cap. Like the post before mine, the main thing is to figure out how it went together in the first place ,,, then reverse the procedure, it may take time, and you may take a lot out to get to that section. But I figure this, you have the same year as my boat it cant be that complicated to figure out.

 

[Bob_VT]

Re: 1976 Ranger Top Cap Removal

If foam is water soaked and subject to absorbing water it needs to be recycled right into a trash can. It has deteriorated to the point where it is useless.

Chances are Ranger assembled the boat using wet fiberglass strips and if you work at it it will separate

 

[Phishead]

Re: 1976 Ranger Top Cap Removal

Thanks for the input guys, I really appreciate it. Yes I am certain the deck is in fact all one part as well as all the storage lockers and the captains seat and console. It looks to me like they glass it together underneath in the lockers to seal them off after cap assembly, and the deck seems to be glued or glass stripped to a sub-deck, that's what is very difficult to get to to cut at and separate. I'm working at it slowly, time I have, patience too. I know it went together as two pieces so it has to be able to come off. I have one of those drywall tools, I'm using it like you did and it works, I also have all sorts of different prybars and other assorted tools. I have already removed as much foam as I can so far, so much water, I got rid off that junk as soon as I saw it. I'll replace with two part expanding closed cell later.

 

[fish-a-holic]

Re: 1976 Ranger Top Cap Removal

I am just starting the process of doing the same thing to mine. I have a 1976 Ranger 175A Looks exactly like yours and has the same problem with the deck. I e-mailed Ranger about a year ago. I got a call from a fellow who said he assembled all these boats that year and that they were never intended to be separated. Like you, I think with a little cutting in the area where the gas tank and the storage locker behind the driver seat should help. Let me know how you do. If I accomplish anything I will post it too. Do you have rotting wood showing in any bulkheads? I have holes where the glass separated from the wood and rot needs to be replaced too. I am going to do a full rebuild since it is cheaper than working 15 years to pay for a new one.

 

[Nezorro]

Re: 1976 Ranger Top Cap Removal

I am just starting the process of doing the same thing to mine. I have a 1976 Ranger 175A Looks exactly like yours and has the same problem with the deck. I e-mailed Ranger about a year ago. I got a call from a fellow who said he assembled all these boats that year and that they were never intended to be separated. Like you, I think with a little cutting in the area where the gas tank and the storage locker behind the driver seat should help. Let me know how you do. If I accomplish anything I will post it too. Do you have rotting wood showing in any bulkheads? I have holes where the glass separated from the wood and rot needs to be replaced too. I am going to do a full rebuild since it is cheaper than working 15 years to pay for a new one.

 

[Nezorro]

Starting to restore a 78-79 Ranger Aztec 175 V. Just seeing if this thread is still active.

 

[ceostrongatl]

Starting to restore a 78-79 Ranger Aztec 175 V. Just seeing if this thread is still active.

How did it go? I'm doing mine, now. A 1978 V178.