1976 Montego 16- The "Free" Puppy

[alldodge]

Lets get some additional opinions but mine is a pinless meter is not much good on a boat. It has to read thru fiberglass and that doesn't work very well. Need one with pins and pins need to make it thru the glass

 

[ratdude747]

More testing: questionable floor spot and ski locker both reporting 13.5% (on plywood, not carpet). Back of rear seat is 8-10%.

I think I found a possible issue under the fuel tank. Hole in the glass???

Video of floor issue:

The spot under the fuel tank doesn't budge when I flex the floor.

 

[redneck joe]

I tend to agree on the pin versus no pin on the meter.

When i am working with wood anything 12% or so is fine.

if it did in fact sit in a barn for the last 10 years any rot will be currently dry that is why drilling is being mentioned.

you may have found the unicorn, but you just dont know yet.

 

[redneck joe]

Pitot tube should stay on all the time, yours prob got snapped off where the tube attaches. Just put a speed app on your phone.

 

[ratdude747]

Pitot tube should stay on all the time, yours prob got snapped off where the tube attaches. Just put a speed app on your phone.

Next time I have the cover off I'll look. There was a weird black plastic piece in the glove box that looks like it'd fit there. Seems the bunk on the trailer interferes

 

[ratdude747]

Next time I have the cover off I'll look. There was a weird black plastic piece in the glove box that looks like it'd fit there. Seems the bunk on the trailer interferes

Found it!



Sure enough, the bunk is interfering. Add it to the "why this trailer stinks" list. And to think it had a factory alloy low trailer, that was swapped at the dealer due to an issue of some sort...

Edit- got it on. Seems the actual issue is the hose is short. Should be fixable with some automotive vacuum line and union?

 

[redneck joe]

Before you do stuff look up touge weight and how it can kill you. Your set up might need adjusting

 

[ratdude747]

Before you do stuff look up touge weight and how it can kill you. Your set up might need adjusting

You mean tongue weight? I've been keeping an eye and ear out for any signs of the trailer popping a wheelie... been very stable so far. Was very stable when towing... so plenty of tongue weight for stability. There is both the usual jack (a folding BassPro unit, very new) and a cinder block (in parallel) supporting the trailer tongue.

 

[redneck joe]

Just odd the boat is that far forward on the trailer.

 

[ratdude747]

Just odd the boat is that far forward on the trailer.

Attached is a pic shot the day I drove it home which shows the full profile. Trailer too big for the boat?

(Side note: this was shot at my inlaws, who were on the way home... )

 

[redneck joe]

I am not an expert and am not there so for what its worth, yes.

I have a 96 ford and comparatively yours looks much more squatted. Too much is better than too little. There is a sticky thread in the trailer and towing forum.

Bunks typically end before or right at the transom so things like pitot tubes do not get broken off.

Your bow post cannot be moved back so either diff trailer than designed for or bunks replaced incorrectly.

I'm beginning to suspect your known history is not as accurate as you might think.

Drill into those pitot tubes and post up pics of the shavings.

 

[redneck joe]

Looked again and the trailer and the bunks are same length so not a bad bunk replacement job.

 

[ratdude747]

Looked again and the trailer and the bunks are same length so not a bad bunk replacement job.

The trailer was a dealer swap. Trailer manufactured in 1975 (per the VIN decal), boat bought in 1976 or 1977 as a "last year's model" clearance item. Original trailer rode low and had mag/alloy wheels but for reasons unknown/forgotten to/by the friend and his dad, it didn't work out and was swapped for the current trailer not long after.

The trailer likely is too long... The back roller doesn't touch the keel and actually prevents full lowering of the outdrive. Not to mention the bow post is a rusty mess (Ice expansion damage, possibly a leftover from the marina incident) and the wiring is a joke (will be running new wire and proper submersible taillights). I don't like it, but it's what I have.

 

[redneck joe]

I will say again, one six weeks in the rain over the life of the boat does not cause problems. Long term exposure does. Ive owned over 20 old boats over the years and trailers can take way more abuse than a boat.

Have you repacked your bearings? Nothing like losing a wheel at 70 mph into oncoming traffic.

 

[ratdude747]

I will say again, one six weeks in the rain over the life of the boat does not cause problems. Long term exposure does. Ive owned over 20 old boats over the years and trailers can take way more abuse than a boat.

Have you repacked your bearings? Nothing like losing a wheel at 70 mph into oncoming traffic.

No, but I did confirm they were still in good order (and on the way down the road, periodicallys stopped to confirm no heat buildup). These have Zerk caps on them (and had been routinely topped off when in use- there was plenty of fresh-ish extra grease on the hubcaps); once I get around to having a grease gun for marine grease they'll get topped off along with all of the outdrive bearings. On that note, the tires are OK... a bit of dry rot starting between the tread blocks but nothing that's an immediate emergency.

How and when water got into the bow post (and later froze) I can't say... that's the only way can think that the bottom of the post would be bulged out on all sides at the bottom (to the point of stripping the paint, hence the rust). There is a plasctic cap on the end of the tube. If the post wasn't so structural (and potentially compromised), I'd drill a tiny hole at the bottom to keep it drained in the event it ever tried to collect water again.

I'm not saying the trailer isn't usable... all I'm saying is that it leaves a lot to be desired and if I end up keeping the boat long term, something I may look to eventually swap.

 

[ratdude747]

Found the rot... Deck board above the back of the ski locker is shot.

Found an old rodent next in there that was soaking wet. My boat cover failed and allowed some water to come in, been airing it out the last several days while the weather is ok.

Here's a chunk of fiberglass and rotten wood I popped off the bottom of the board:



That explains the soft spot and the rotten skis inside. Collecting condensation perhaps? Everything else in the area seems to be OK other than the carpet glue peeling a bit.

Given that everything else seems to be solid, I am electing to consider this a problem to solve down the road (after I have it running, perhaps this fall). I know that eventually the interior will need to at least partially come out and the deck repaired. For now, I've pulled as much wet loose junk out of there as I can in hopes that the rest will air out with the locker cover removed. May also put some damp rid in there to draw more of the wetness out.

I have ordered a new boat cover. This time I will be using a support pole instead of buckets and trash cans in an effort to stop the pooling condition that caused this issue in the first place.

In other news, I got the oil changed and the impeller replaced. What a pain... The old impeller didn't seem bad though (lots of sketchy gaskets though). Not sure why it wasn't pulling water off the muffs. Water did make it to the block and manifolds though.... Maybe I didn't wait or run it long enough?

 

[airshot]

Sorry to deliver vad news, but that small rot area is just a tip of the iceberg. They rot from the bottom up, so get under where you found that spot and you will find more !
Some of the wood may be enclosed in fiberglass and feel solid, but drill into that encapsulated wood and it won't be pretty. Remember that wood is the skeleton of your boat, when the skeleton rots, the fiberglass will give way and fold up or crack open. Good Luck !!

 

[ratdude747]

Sorry to deliver vad news, but that small rot area is just a tip of the iceberg. They rot from the bottom up, so get under where you found that spot and you will find more !
Some of the wood may be enclosed in fiberglass and feel solid, but drill into that encapsulated wood and it won't be pretty. Remember that wood is the skeleton of your boat, when the skeleton rots, the fiberglass will give way and fold up or crack open. Good Luck !!

I'll try. Underneath that area is the ski locker. The side walls and back wall of the locker as far as I can feel are solid (no flex or sponginess). The back wall would be the most suspect area, but it's far enough under the floor that I'd need a very long bit to drill it (I don't have a bit that long that isn't way too big to not be destructive). I could try the locker floor though.

 

[redneck joe]

I'll try. Underneath that area is the ski locker. The side walls and back wall of the locker as far as I can feel are solid (no flex or sponginess). The back wall would be the most suspect area, but it's far enough under the floor that I'd need a very long bit to drill it (I don't have a bit that long that isn't way too big to not be destructive). I could try the locker floor though.

The ski locker should be encased in fiberglass over wood. If thick enough it will not flex and the rotted wood would be inside. That is why we say to drill. That said, if you do drill and there is no rot MUST fill the drill hole with 4200 or 5200 and NOT silicone.

 

[ratdude747]

Having no luck drilling it.

JB waterweld ok for filling holes? I have some and that was my plan.

Never mind. Pulled the carpet and the locker floor is soft and failed the test. Ugh. Guess this is a bigger project or a sunk cost ...