1976 Mercury 1150 Yellow Fluid Leak (Steering?)

saltchuckmatt

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Jul 19, 2019
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2,775
Ran into an issue. Turns out, there's a section of the tube with some rust and probably pitting. It's a little hard to tell. I plan to put some very coarse steel wool on the drill bit and see if that cleans it up. That rust won't let the steering cable pass.
Yes the tube is usually the issue and hard to change.

I've used a brake cylinder hone before.
 

jtexnm

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Dec 24, 2022
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I got it done. Steering works 100%.

The steel wool wasn't doing much. So I figured out that I can put dremel grinding wheels over the steel wool and I did that.

That fixed up the tube really well. Then I hit it with steel wool and then I wrapped more shop towels around the steel wool which put some pressure on the tube and had the entire thing perfectly clean.

Yes!

I bought a 45-year-old boat so I expected to do some work. The first thing I checked was compression and once I verified that was good, I decided I'd be willing to put more work in.

I'm currently tearing apart the entire interior to replace the flooring, trim, seats, etc.

Some person who must have thought they were very clever, put plywood over the original plywood and didn't seal it.
 

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saltchuckmatt

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Well one things for sure, I'm pretty sure you won't be running out of things to do soon!

Glad the steering worked out.
Grease it often.
 

dingbat

Supreme Mariner
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Nov 20, 2001
Messages
16,150
I got it done. Steering works 100%.
Now that you got it cleaned up, do yourself a favor…
Use a quality aluminum complex grease (Evinrude triple guard or Yamalube) and install a steering rod wiper like this one.

 

merc850

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Jul 7, 2010
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2,046
Have you thought about fixing that under dash wiring with a terminal strip? you can run all the neg wires to a common terminal then run a fused pos. wire to the terminal strip and branch off of it.
I see a gage but I don't know if it's a tach or speedo if it's not a tach get one (this site has them) that is alternator driven it connects to a YELLOW wire on the rectifier.
 
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jtexnm

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Dec 24, 2022
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75
Have you thought about fixing that under dash wiring with a terminal strip? you can run all the neg wires to a common terminal then run a fused pos. wire to the terminal strip and branch off of it.
I see a gage but I don't know if it's a tach or speedo if it's not a tach get one (this site has them) that is alternator driven it connects to a YELLOW wire on the rectifier.
I don't know enough and haven't gotten into it yet. At this point I'm not even sure what all the wires go to beside the trim controls and the horn and that there are plenty of things disconnected.

When I do I will revisit your comment. I like the idea of cleaning it up. Actually I have OCD so I HATE that mess. I think I just need to understand what I'm actually dealing with.
 

jtexnm

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Dec 24, 2022
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Now that you got it cleaned up, do yourself a favor…
Use a quality aluminum complex grease (Evinrude triple guard or Yamalube) and install a steering rod wiper like this one.

I'm assuming the upgrade is to be able to grease the steering rod inside the tube better? I think that would push crud out if any got in so I'm sold.
 

dingbat

Supreme Mariner
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Nov 20, 2001
Messages
16,150
I'm assuming the upgrade is to be able to grease the steering rod inside the tube better?
Nope…it seals the tube (grease) and the o-ring rod wiper eliminates moisture getting inside the tube eliminating the need to grease on a regular basis.
I think that would push crud out if any got in so I'm sold.
The opposite.. it keeps the crud out.

The real trick is the grease. Tripe-Guard and Yamalube are highly water resistant and extremely “sticky”. Doesn’t wash off or out. Sticks to the steering rod like glue
 

jtexnm

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Nope…it seals the tube (grease) and the o-ring rod wiper eliminates moisture getting inside the tube eliminating the need to grease on a regular basis.

The opposite.. it keeps the crud out.
Ohhh. I was thinking it replaced the cap on the other end. That seems great. Mine gets in next week.

I guess you would take the Marine grease off and apply some yamalube if you were me?
 

dingbat

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Ohhh. I was thinking it replaced the cap on the other end. That seems great. Mine gets in next week.

I guess you would take the Marine grease off and apply some yamalube if you were me?
I did not.

I extended the rod out fully, wiped off the dirty grease and continued to cycle the rod in and out unit everything as clean and moving freely. Installed the nut, gave it a shot of grease and never looked back.

Just top off the grease in the nut when I winterize and called it good for another year. Change the o-ring every couple of years and your good to go
 

jtexnm

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Dec 24, 2022
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I did not.

I extended the rod out fully, wiped off the dirty grease and continued to cycle the rod in and out unit everything as clean and moving freely. Installed the nut, gave it a shot of grease and never looked back.

Just top off the grease in the nut when I winterize and called it good for another year. Change the o-ring every couple of years and your good to go
Thanks. I feel good about that plan.
 

Chris1956

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Mar 25, 2004
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A little turpentine cuts the old dried grease quite well. Quicksilver makes a excellent product for steering rods. It is a bit thinner than marine grease. It is special lube 101.
 
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