1975 Starcraft SS 16' Freshen Up

ShoestringMariner

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That looks so great. The front cushions look beige, is that just the camera? Your seats look off-white. Everything looks fantastic. Did you just make lift off bow seat boards?
 

classiccat

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Top notch! :thumb:
fetch



the windshield gap at least looks even. did you try nudging both sides towards center? it doesn't take much.
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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I wouldn't worry about the windshield latches, unless you drive in reverse really fast. :lol: With my SS, I don't bother to spin the latches, not had a problem towing or out on the water boating.
 

Michigan Lakes

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That looks so great. The front cushions look beige, is that just the camera? Your seats look off-white. Everything looks fantastic. Did you just make lift off bow seat boards?

Thank you for the compliments. It's just the camera. Both the new seats and bow cushions are a slightly off-white color. Not a perfect match but close enough that it'd take a serious look to notice. The bow seats are lift-off but fit quite tight. No movement or "fly-off" issues on the 45 mph drive to the lake.
 

Michigan Lakes

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Top notch!
the windshield gap at least looks even. did you try nudging both sides towards center? it doesn't take much.
Yeah. I tried a lot of pushing and pulling to no avail. It's not much of an issue except while trailering, during which I use a small c-clamp to secure it.
 

ShoestringMariner

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Thank you for the compliments. It's just the camera. Both the new seats and bow cushions are a slightly off-white color. Not a perfect match but close enough that it'd take a serious look to notice. The bow seats are lift-off but fit quite tight. No movement or "fly-off" issues on the 45 mph drive to the lake.

and my phone...using a laptop, they look whiter.

and even better
 

bchaney

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Jul 3, 2018
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The bow seats with storage look great. If I had a 16'r I'd want to keep them too.
 

Michigan Lakes

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Hi there guys. I've been lurking around the forums for the past few months but not much activity on the boat. Ready to get back on the water now that Michigan seems to be consistently in the warmer temps again.

On the SS's last outing (mid-Sept 19') I drained a somewhat surprising amount of water out of bilge once she was back on the trailer. We had been out for 2 hours or so and there may have been 3-4 gallons in the bilge. To be honest, I hadn't even been powering up the bilge pump as there hadn't been any noticeable leaking on any the lake trips up to this point, just residual water from swimmers getting back in the boat.

I let it drain (or so I thought), winterized the boat, garaged it and mostly forgot about it over the Winter. About a month ago, I noticed water dripping from the area where the bow and keel meet (never a good thing when she's been garaged for 6 months). Upon closer inspection, the bottom center rivet of the bow was sheared off flush (see photos). I had replaced several failing/failed keel rollers last Summer. Not sure if this was a gradual thing from the old rollers, lake bed damage or something else entirely.

Regardless, I'm now in a situation where my freshly replaced floor, foam etc is now in the way of properly replacing this rivet. Based on the iBoats forum research I've done, there are multitude of options. I'd prefer to avoid the following two extremes:

Low End: Smear/spray a bunch of something and hope for the best
High End: Rip up the freshly replaced bow flooring and properly replace the rivet.

I'm leaning towards drilling out the solid rivet and replacing it using a high quality pop rivet coated in 3M 5200 or JB Weld Marine Epoxy.

Another, slightly more drastic option is drilling a 4" or 6" hole though the bow flooring, foam, etc and and attempting to buck a solid rivet in using that access point. Once done, I could replace the hole with a plastic drain grate similar to what other Starcraft builders have done for ensuring the drain holes at the keel/rib junction are open.

Sorry for the long-windedness. Any help or opinions are appreciated.
 

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SHSU

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While not the best option by far, I have to agree with ShoestringMariner. If you don't want to rip up what you already have that is about your only option. The bigger question to ask is what caused those to rivets to shear in the first place. That point takes a lot of beating/force. So without pulling up the floor, you wont know if you have other failures that are waiting to happen.

On that note, so the belief is that those sheared rivets caused the extra water intake while on the lake. Unless I missed something, that doesn't explain the water dripping out after sitting out of water for so long.

But that is just my 2 cents...

SHSU
 

Watermann

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I would just stop up the leak with a closed end blind and 5200, there's more solids there than you can shake a stick at.

Be sure to move that roller back to where it's not running and working on the keel plate rivets.

fetch
 

Michigan Lakes

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Finally got around to getting the new rivet in. While cleaning up the repair area, I noticed that the factory (I assume anyway) sealant was not the best shape around the keel and bow plates. Since I was working in this area anyway, I decided to do a quick clean up with the wire wheel and "reseal" the immediate area with the abundance of 5200 that I now have (10 oz tube). It looks rather sloppy but thankfully it's a pretty well hidden area for the most part. Hopefully I can address the entire outer hull, cosmetically and otherwise, at some point in the future.


To answer SHSU's question from earlier, I believe a small amount of water was trapped in the bilge area over the course of the Winter. Typically, the boat is stored on the trailer with a slight incline towards the stern. My youngest discovered this Spring that the he's capable of cranking the trailer tongue jack. I've since hopefully got him to cease that activity but he did manage to crank the jack enough to tilt the bow down, collecting the water near the damaged rivet. This was actually the first time I noticed it. Funny how things reveal themselves.


On a side note, it was rather convenient how my entire tongue assembly can be removed from the trailer for storage or repairs (see 3rd photo). While it's a somewhat precarious situation when you're below the boat, it actually made this repair possible.
 

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SHSU

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As Watermann pointed out, lots of rivets in that area. I remember when we were going through all of them... LOL

One thing to keep in mind is 5200 isn't designed as a "glue" so not sure how well it will hold up in that form. Its more of a sealant that is sandwiched. Either way, it can't hurt and that plenty of 5200.

Like the removable tongue. Being able to fit in the garage was a requirement. We went with a swing tongue but sometimes wished it would "swing" more...

SHSU
 

SHSU

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As Watermann pointed out, lots of rivets in that area. I remember when we were going through all of them... LOL

One thing to keep in mind is 5200 isn't designed as a "glue" so not sure how well it will hold up in that form. Its more of a sealant that is sandwiched. Either way, it can't hurt and that plenty of 5200.

Like the removable tongue. Being able to fit in the garage was a requirement. We went with a swing tongue but sometimes wished it would "swing" more...

SHSU
 

Watermann

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As Watermann pointed out, lots of rivets in that area. I remember when we were going through all of them... LOL

One thing to keep in mind is 5200 isn't designed as a "glue" so not sure how well it will hold up in that form. Its more of a sealant that is sandwiched. Either way, it can't hurt and that plenty of 5200....

SHSU

Actually 5200 is a powerful adhesive that touts permanent bonding below the waterline which is what makes so many guys post not to use it if you ever want to take it apart again which really isn't true when it comes to bolts.

https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-...777&rt=rud
 

SHSU

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Thanks Watermann for correcting me. Leave me to spread internet rumors. LOL

To your point, I have the intention of never taking anything apart that included 5200. With that said, if I thought about it that would imply it would glue stuff together.

SHSU
 

Michigan Lakes

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Watermann's earlier response: "Be sure to move that roller back to where it's not running and working on the keel plate rivets" led to some pretty serious thought and research regarding of the future of my all-roller Holsclaw trailer.
While I like it's vintage-ness and history with the boat, the rust, rattles, rivet/keel wear and general need of a front-to-back overhaul make me question putting any further $$ into it. On top of that, bunks seem to be the preferred configuration here on the forum.
If I'm going to spend on something else, I'd prefer to get the setup I really want; i.e. galvanized with the low, "v" style frame.
New, bunk style trailers with these attributes seem to be priced North of $1K in my area. In light of that, I've been in the market for wasted glassers on galvanized trailers.
While I'm prepared to have the necessary measurements with me should I go to look at one these hulks, does anyone have any additional insight as to the wisdom or feasibility of this? I've provided a few listings below for reference (fb has become a necessary evil with the general decline of cl postings).
For what it's worth, 17' Bayliner Capris' on galvanized "Escort" brand trailers seem to be prevalent near me.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/609669899688080

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/743804166409765

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/311764773346577

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/419883075601961
 

SHSU

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So not familiar with your trailer and didn't see any good pictures in the thread. I am guessing, based on your comments, that switching from rollers to bunks isn't possible with the current trailer.

With that said, I am guessing you are still planning on replacing all the wiring and putting new bunks/hardware. Also redoing the wheel hubs/bearings. Correct or were you hoping the trailer you found wouldn't need any work?

SHSU
 

Michigan Lakes

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I've attached a few photos of my trailer as it currently sits as well as an overview shot of an empty Holsclaw trailer that appears to be the same model as mine.
I assume any new-to-me trailer will need some work. At a minimum, I'd at least want to clean and repack the bearings. I'm also not opposed to doing tires, rewire etc should that be necessary. Cosmetic work is what I would really like to avoid. Improving the appearance of my current trailer would easily be $100+ in materials and 20+ hours of work (not to mention blocking up the boat etc). It does not seem worth it when I can source a galvanized trailer for $300-$500, even if it does need a few hundred additional dollars in sorting.
My SS16 measures 22" from the keel to the center of the strakes (I believe that's the correct term). With that measurement, I'd be looking for bunks (if non-adjustable) that were less than 42" from the outside edges. Aside from that, trailer length and the advice of anyone here on the forum, it's going a be a trial-and-error situation.
 

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SHSU

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I can understand that sentiment with how cheap you can get a galvanized trailer for. With that said, my boat is a SS16 as well. My bunks sit 56 inches apart from edge to edge. They do have a keel support down the middle. The length of the trailer itself without bunks is 17 ft, that includes a 2 ft swing tongue. If you add on the bunks and motor, from tongue to prop I am at 20 1/2 ft total. I am able to store inside the garage as the swing tongue takes off just enough for me to squeeze in.

SHSU
 
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