1974 Starcraft SS16 Restortation

FIGMO

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This is what I was planning for under the casting deck. I was mapping out the area with cardboard cut outs in the dimensions of the batteries.

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I can place the batteries on either side of the two front consoles, and then run the conduit up and under the gunnels as recommended.

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I was thinking I could build a large storage area directly under the center, and reinforce the aluminum framing with 3/4 ply as well.

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The area in the very front would be for the battery charger. I am looking to get a two bank system and then run conduit back through the supporting 3/4 ply to the batteries. I know the height will be 12 3/8, so I can build a front access drop down door to access the storage area.
 

Decker83

Commander
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Apr 5, 2011
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2,592
Your foam job looks great.. Your layout for the batteries looks like a good plan.. Thanks for the ideals..:rockon:
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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Jan 12, 2013
Messages
13,753
Remember your TM batteries also have to be connected to each other to be 24v.
 

knezzer

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Apr 8, 2012
Messages
214
hey some great ideas ! I'm doing some similar stuff on my project with the trolling motor bracing and battery placement.
 

FIGMO

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Jun 18, 2017
Messages
320
Hey Guys!

Thanks again for the input. Nice to know that others are getting ideas from my efforts. Always good to pay forward.

Remember your TM batteries also have to be connected to each other to be 24v.

After reading you post, I went back and researched my TM. As it turns out it is a 2014 model that is 12 volt only. So that will save me some hassles. It is the Minn Kota bow mount with i-Pilot and 2D sonar.

I saw a great video on YouTube about wiring 2 batteries, Dangar Marine, that I think I will follow. If anyone is interested, here is the link:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X_xpoG6fFAo
 

ShoestringMariner

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Apr 18, 2015
Messages
1,565
This is what I was planning for under the casting deck. I was mapping out the area with cardboard cut outs in the dimensions of the batteries.


I can place the batteries on either side of the two front consoles, and then run the conduit up and under the gunnels as recommended.


I was thinking I could build a large storage area directly under the center, and reinforce the aluminum framing with 3/4 ply as well.


The area in the very front would be for the battery charger. I am looking to get a two bank system and then run conduit back through the supporting 3/4 ply to the batteries. I know the height will be 12 3/8, so I can build a front access drop down door to access the storage area.
Looks awesome! Tons of room under the front benches! That’s exactly where I want to put my batteries too
 

FIGMO

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Jun 18, 2017
Messages
320
Hey Gents,

I want to confirm the proper size bolts for the pedestal seat mounts. My decks are 1/2, and I was planning on adding 3/4 PW underneath to support the seats.

I am assuming that 1/4 - 20 SS bolts should do the trick, and the same for the tnuts. I would like to get my deck secured by the end of the weekend so I can move on to painting.
 

MTboatguy

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Jul 8, 2010
Messages
8,988
Hey Gents,

I want to confirm the proper size bolts for the pedestal seat mounts. My decks are 1/2, and I was planning on adding 3/4 PW underneath to support the seats.

I am assuming that 1/4 - 20 SS bolts should do the trick, and the same for the tnuts. I would like to get my deck secured by the end of the weekend so I can move on to painting.

That is what I have always used and they hold up fine.
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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Jan 12, 2013
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13,753
I used 1/4" machine screws but some have used the next size up.
 

FIGMO

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Jun 18, 2017
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Thanks MT and WM. Always nice to have the confirmation before spending money.
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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Jan 12, 2013
Messages
13,753
I added adhesive to the T nuts, tapped them in and then tightened down the machine screws until it set. Also when I installed the pedestals, I added some blue locktite to the threads to make sure the vibration didn't loosen them. In addition I removed every last screw holding the seats together and added the locktitie to them too. I was amazed at how many of them were barely finger tight, be sure you don't over tighten the screws though, I used a power driver that has a torque setting.
 

FIGMO

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Jun 18, 2017
Messages
320
I added adhesive to the T nuts, tapped them in and then tightened down the machine screws until it set. Also when I installed the pedestals, I added some blue locktite to the threads to make sure the vibration didn't loosen them. In addition I removed every last screw holding the seats together and added the locktitie to them too. I was amazed at how many of them were barely finger tight, be sure you don't over tighten the screws though, I used a power driver that has a torque setting.

Excellent advice! I will be sure to follow it.
 

PlayD0h

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Apr 23, 2009
Messages
326
Nice work Figmo. I'm very interested in seeing your bow deck once completed. I'm thinking this is the winter I resto my 16 SS, although I'm worried about not being ready next spring. Thanks for sharing your work. I've been thinking and learning about this for 4 years or so. I want to have all my ducks in a row before I start.

I recently looked at a 2018 SC and it gave me some ideas. They have a flip down bench seat in the back, that becomes a casting deck. The splash well area, is much more utilized for storage also. I really want a rod locker under the middle of my bow casting deck.

Keep it up.
 

PlayD0h

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Apr 23, 2009
Messages
326
This is the 2019 Renagade. I'm wondering to what extent the splash-well on ours can be modified. I don't think the SW does much for structural support, and the new design would provide support anyways.
 

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FIGMO

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jun 18, 2017
Messages
320
Nice work Figmo. I'm very interested in seeing your bow deck once completed. I'm thinking this is the winter I resto my 16 SS, although I'm worried about not being ready next spring. Thanks for sharing your work. I've been thinking and learning about this for 4 years or so. I want to have all my ducks in a row before I start.

I recently looked at a 2018 SC and it gave me some ideas. They have a flip down bench seat in the back, that becomes a casting deck. The splash well area, is much more utilized for storage also. I really want a rod locker under the middle of my bow casting deck.

Keep it up.

Hello PlayD0h,

I am glad you find this helpful. It is without a doubt that I would have been spinning my wheels on some aspects of this project without the assistance of the community here. If I can pay that forward, then all the better.

I hear you on timelines, I was hoping to have this ready for the long weekend in May of 2019, but I have now come to the conclusion that I might not make that date. Since starting this, my main emphasis has been to try and do it right. I would rather go over my planned splashed date by a couple of months, then invest the time and effort and have a crappy product at the end.

Actually the splash well (SW) does add to the structural integrity of the boat. If you look at how it is connect to the transom and the gunnels on both sides, it is reinforcing. However, having said that, there are people here that have changed their SW design to be more functional and still maintain the structural integrity of their boat. The best example I can think of would be Candutch's build, see Link:

https://forums.iboats.com/forum/own...starcraft-super-sport-180-gonna-try-a-restore

Keep in mind that the 18 ft boats generally have belly fuel tanks and as such do not require space at the back, and above deck level for fuel tanks. Unfortunately for me, I will not have a belly tank and will need the space under the SW for the fuel tanks. The end result is that I will leave my SW as is. I am relocating the batteries to front to create some additional space in the back under the SW for 2 fuel tanks.

Once I get the deck boards in, I will be painting the boat, and then working on the design for the front casting deck. I will be sure to take lots of pictures of the framing, but again look at Candutch's work, it is really quite good and will give you a lot of ideas.

As for fishing rod storage, I have decide to mount the "rocket launchers" on the back gunnels of my boat to keep them out of the way. I need the storage in the front for other items. That decision came after considerable deliberation. For yourself, you will want to look at others for inspiration, and then make your own decisions as to the layout of your boat. It is your boat, and you have to be happy with your final product. At least that is the lesson that I have pulled from this process thus far.
 

FIGMO

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Jun 18, 2017
Messages
320
Hey Gents,

I am about to start putting my deck boards down, and have a question about proper size blind rivets. In some areas of the boat the plywood is flush against the aluminum stringers, but in other areas (such as along the sides) there are gaps between the plywood and the aluminum ribs.

I think I am clear on the diameter of rivets to use, 3/16s, but a little unclear as to the length of the rivets to use in the different areas whether that is attaching:

a. aluminum to aluminum, such as the SW to the gunnel;

b. 1/2" plywood to the stringers (flush); or

c. the 1/2" plywood to the aluminum ribs (not so flush)

Any guidance would be greatly appreciated.
 

FIGMO

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Jun 18, 2017
Messages
320
Hello Watermann,

Yup I saw that before. I guess old age is setting in...thanks for the reminder.

I am still wondering what do to where there is a large gap between the bottom of the plywood and the rib in the boat. It is only a problem toward the bow.
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
13,753
You have to use a belt sander with 60g and bevel the edge on the underside where the rib cut out is so the deck section will lay down flat, you don't want to have it sitting on an edge with the section jacked up.
 

FIGMO

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jun 18, 2017
Messages
320
You have to use a belt sander with 60g and bevel the edge on the underside where the rib cut out is so the deck section will lay down flat, you don't want to have it sitting on an edge with the section jacked up.

I will have to post some pictures of the issue I am looking at. When I cut new deck boards I used the old ones as a template, but the grooved areas around the ribs did not line up properly. I will get some pictures shortly.
 
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