1974 Sea Ray SRV 220 CC (Nerdin Bros)

[jeff_nerdin]

My brother Matt and I just purchased a 1974 Sea Ray SRV 220 CC, a 22' cuddy cabin cruiser with a V8 Mercruiser inboard/outboard motor. The outer hull looks good and we're hoping the engine won't require too much work, but we expect that the interior will have to be completely gutted and rebuilt. Fortunately, we bought the boat because we wanted a project to work on together, so here goes. Matt and I both have a lot of experience with building, woodworking, carpet, furniture restoration, upholstery, metalworking, wiring etc. However, we'll need to get help with the engine.

 

[jeff_nerdin]

1974 Sea Ray SRV 220 CC (Nerdin Bros)


Link to video showing before photos of the 1974 Sea Ray

 

[jeff_nerdin]

1974 Sea Ray SRV 220 CC (Nerdin Bros)

Link to before video

 

[jeff_nerdin]

1974 Sea Ray SRV 220 CC (Nerdin Bros)

Link to video after first day of gutting.

 

[jeff_nerdin]

Nerdin Brother Boat Bash - Boat Canvas - No. 4

 

[jeff_nerdin]

Nerdin Brother Boat Bash - Boat Canvas - No. 6

 

[jeff_nerdin]

Nerdin Brother Boat Bash - Boat Canvas - No. 7

 

[archbuilder]

Jeff,

Looks like you guys have a lot of boat there! There are a few folks on here that are really good with upholstery, hopefully one of them can help you sort the top out. What kind of shape are the engine and drive in? Sounds like you have a full redo on the deck / stringers and probably transom.

 

[jeff_nerdin]

archbuilder Thanks for checking in on our project. We will definitely have to tear out the floor, stringers and foam. We tore out just enough to get an idea how far we'd have to go. The transom and the engine box look and feel solid, but we might find out different when we dig deeper. One question I have is whether or not it's possible to replace just a part of the stringers. Things are clearly rotten up to just behind the helm, but they feel solid from there forward. Do you know if it's feasible to replace the aft portion and tie into existing stringers in the fore portion, or are we going to have to tear it all out and start fresh? I have similar questions about the engine box. It might be easier if we don't have to remove the engine from the boat. What are your thoughts on that? I'm not sure about the engine, but the stickers show that it was licensed and passed mussel inspection as recently as 2015. My assumption is that it had to be running when is passed inspection and renewed the license. Given that it was probably impounded in late 2015 or early 2016, my assumption is that it was running recently. The carburetor was off when we got it, so my theory is that either the carb went bad so they parked it on the street while they were trying to fix the carb and it got impounded. Another theory is that they got water in the oil and took the carb and air filter off so they could get the water out of the engine. I'm hopeful that all this means that it won't take too much to get the engine running. However, this is the one area where my brother and I won't try to do the work ourselves. We'll be looking for a good boat engine mechanic in Santa Barbara to help with the engine and outboard.

 

[jeff_nerdin]

ArkansasTraveler Hello Arkansas Traveler - I watched all of your videos to learn a bit of what I'm getting myself into with my boat project. I'm curious because it sounded like you were able to get a lot of good feedback from people on the forum to help answer some of the questions that you encountered during your project. I'm wondering if you could tell me how you used these forums to get that feedback. Thanks for the inspiration and instruction. - Jeff

 

[archbuilder]

People have spliced stringers before, seems like Zool did that on his monster project. You might thumb through his thread....I maybe wrong but I think he did. http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...perial-280sf-engine-swap-and-restoration-pics He does some really nice work. Seems like putting a scarf joint in the wood would be best, but really hard to do.

 

[savetexomabeaches]

If you start cutting out pieces, be sure to keep said pieces for templates, especially in the engine box.

 

[wrvond]

On your canvas- the two large rectangles are your Bimini tops you can raise them individually or zip them together to form one large top. They are normally stowed by collapsing the bows, wrapping the canvas around the bows, then covering with a (usually) matching fabric boot with zipper to close, as you can see in my sig file.
The clear vinyl is called isenglass- the piece that does not have much fabric around the edge should zip to the leading edge of the front Bimini and attach to the top of the windshield. You've already attached the side curtains, so that's pretty straightforward. The remaining piece should zip to the trailing edge of the rear Bimini then attach to the transom. Attachment to the boat is normally by snaps. There are also adjustable straps with clips that attach to hard eyes that are mounted on the boat or windshield. All together this assembly is referred to as camper canvas.
Attached is my boat with camper canvas deployed. Not identical, but similar (as they all are).
Isenglass should never be folded, but always rolled when stowed and protected from scratches.
Sailrite.com is a great source for canvas supplies. Sunbrella is the canvas brand of choice.

 

[kcassells]

There are alot of varied opinions. Personally I like and use the butt joint.
Go up to the search tab and put in some key words. You will find previous discussions. Here's one;
http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...-joint-vs-butt-joints-for-laminated-stringers

 

[Woodonglass]

So far most of your questions have been about the engine. Those would be better asked in the Motor Forum.
As archbuilder stated, depending on the overall condition of the stringers they CAN be repaired in sections IF, BIG, IF the remaining portions are 100% dry and rot free. Removing the engine will be a necessity if you have to replace the transom. Have you core sampled it? Have you core sampled the engine mounts?
I've done my fair share of upholstery work so, If I can help just holler.

Bruceb58 would be a very good source for your canvas needs.

 

[archbuilder]

Jeff, Wood is for sure correct on the remaining wood being dry and rot free. Once you have the deck / foam out you'll have a better idea. I don't think you are that far yet. The videos are great, but some pics of specif issues are also very helpful.

 

[RCNelson]

That's a nice looking boat Jeff. It's worth a rebuild in my book.

 

[jeff_nerdin]

@​SaveTexomaBeaches Thanks for heads up about keeping pieces. I'll be careful to follow that advice.

 

[jeff_nerdin]

wrvond - Thanks for the help with the camper cover. Everything you said fits with what I have and how I found it on the boat, so I think you nailed it. We'll see how it goes back on.

 

[mickyryan]

I'm trollin ya posts but I'm not seeing any itchy fiberglass work yet, don't be chicken dive in get ya some subscribed cool boat seen a few of these on craigslist .