NoAnswer this question only.-------When you pull the recoil handle a few times , does fuel come out of the pump , yes or no ?
NoAnswer this question only.-------When you pull the recoil handle a few times , does fuel come out of the pump , yes or no ?
He's AustralianI watched one of Danger marine's videos. (guy with british accent). He used a small rectifier from yamaha. Ran two wires from charging coil to it then red/white to battery, and a ground to block. I think it was a 20hp. Anyway it produced 13.8vdc at a little above idle. I dont know yet if that p/n he showed is still available. I just figured before I reassemble my engine I could install one.
Fuel pumps on these old motors are pretty simple, and don't fail often. I would suspect one possibly if it sat for decades. But the chances that both these 25hp motors pumps and one...even Chinese...that you bought off Amazon and one you rebuilt (there is only a diaphragm or two and little blocks in them and a screen if I remember right)are ALL bad is HIGHLY unlikely in my opinion. I am not expert though so some may disagree with me.Thanks, as for pressure from crank, if you run the motor with out blocking the hole for the pulse, you can hear it and you can feel the pressure. So i don’t think it is that one. All gas related lines are all changed. Accept the line in the plastic fuel tank. I will try using a gas line just running into the tank to the fuel pump . I will try it in that configuration and post results. So I have about 4 of the fuel pumps I will rebuild them and see.
Is there any way to tell if the fuel pump is configured correctly. I watched 1 video where a guy blew into one side and it sounds like a cazooo
Thanks for the help
Dale
Will try that one day this week, I also will try buy putting the hose directly in the tank and bypassing the connector and hoseBypass the fuel pump on the motor.-----Have your assistant operate the manual pump.----Does the motor now start and keep running , yes or no ?
Yea that suggestion made me think the pick up in the tank may be cracked offWill try that one day this week, I also will try buy putting the hose directly in the tank and bypassing the connector and hose
In tank.
I will report back when I try these two ideas.
Thanks as always
Dale
Well I have about 4 metalMy nephew got a plastic tank off of Amazon and had the same problem. I immediately pulled the fitting off the tank and discovered the dip tube had a bracket holding it to the tank fitting and the tube wasn't even fitted well to the fitting the hose connects to. Was pulling up a little fuel and a lot of air. The fuel pump wouldn't pump anything. Hooked to my Evinrude metal tank and ran perfectly.
I'm no expert, but your journey is similar to mine. Unless you messed with your timing it should be fine, or at least close enough. My Johnson manual had me setting my breaker points at .10, which I did. Later I saw in one of these forums a recommendation of .20 for breaker points. Presto! I would try that first. I'm guessing that the more recent CDC power packs affect the ignition from what the factory setting were and what the original power packs were.Hello all,
So I purchased this motor was sitting for a while. I replaced the points, coils (2) , rebuilt the carb . Replaced water pump .
So my issue is I have great spark, I have compression & fuel. But it does not run.
So I double and triple checked the above again.
I even regaled the plugs. I even spayed carb cleaner in the cyl put the plugs in and tried it.
Nothing. So I am going with the timing is off. How can I tell . The tiller handle could be off. I can only think it has to do with the timing for it never runs. So I am open to suggestions on how to set them up and verify what I have now that might help me.
Thank you all. Dale
My gap is ok, my motor ran till I changed multiple iteams. Then it was put to me plain and simple . Do you have spark , do you have compression, do you have fuel . So the one item I can’t guarantee till the weekend is fuel making past fuel pump. So that is my quest when I fix that I will see what happens next. Thank you for your input.I'm no expert, but your journey is similar to mine. Unless you messed with your timing it should be fine, or at least close enough. My Johnson manual had me setting my breaker points at .10, which I did. Later I saw in one of these forums a recommendation of .20 for breaker points. Presto! I would try that first. I'm guessing that the more recent CDC power packs affect the ignition from what the factory setting were and what the original power packs were.
Is it my imagination or is that motor running backwards??So if I go to the motor and push the button it starts right up. But I have more questions????
I took a video of the plate under the fly wheel if I can get it to run low enough the plate is junkin and jiven all over. Is that normal I think I might have a bad seal. For in the pictures you will see a lot of old oil. But the seal looks immaculate . I took it all apart put it back together cleaned I ran the motor for about 20 min. Then it was getting cold. So I will run it again tomorrow and see under the flywheel if more oil shows up. If so new seal time.
But if you can look at the pictures and small video and tell me if anything looks incorrect.
As usual thank you for all the help.
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