1973 starcraft ss restore in progress

[Candutch]

Here's a read on the vro subject.
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/VRO.html

That was a good read, I also read a forum discussion about that article. It convinced me, I will not disconnect the VRO. Thanks Watermann.

 

[crankbait cowboy]

good article there h20, sheds some light, and eases my mind a bit. I don't need power for a year or so ( got plenty to do ) and this motor is 4 hrs away, but am real interested in it and guy is asking 1500.00 which seemed real reasonable to me, for a 1990 110 Johnson with tilt and trim and all controls, so I am torn on making the trip ( could be a 2 day deal as motor is still on boat and fella said come on down and we will take it for a spin. seem like a good deal to you all?

 

[Watermann]

Heck yeah that would be a good deal on that motor. A 4 hour drive is nothing, I'd not even call that a road trip. :lol:

 

[Furrylittleotter]

Sounds great being able to test it first but one problem: outboards should say "YAMAHA" on the cowl.

Neil

 

[Candutch]

Sounds great being able to test it first but one problem: outboards should say "YAMAHA" on the cowl.

Neil

That's an easy fix with some paint and decals.

 

[Watermann]

For me there would be nothing worse than looking back at the beautiful wake of an awesome American built boat and see the advertisement for a Japanese motor company. :distracted:

 

[crankbait cowboy]

well. I never got around to running and checking out motor. once again the month of july flew by with other things in life taking priority over the project. feeling a bit guilty about my terribly slow progress here, but haven't given up. prep/paint splashwell and side rails, prep paint top rails, another coat epoxy on floor, and vinyl down is the goal by October, but time will tell. one weekend would go a long way ( just gotta find that weekend)

 

[Watermann]

Yeah CC but you have a project to look forward to, me well all I can think about is another one... :lol:

 

[crankbait cowboy]

so my top rails are far from perfect ( deep scratches ) and am in process of painting splashwell and top rail, wondering if anybody has any good ideas as to paint. I would like a non skid surface in white ideally. my splashwell I used rustoleum truck bed coating, and I like the look ( but about 2/3 of the spray bombs are shhhh as they clog right away. any ideas?

 

[dozerII]

so my top rails are far from perfect ( deep scratches ) and am in process of painting splashwell and top rail, wondering if anybody has any good ideas as to paint. I would like a non skid surface in white ideally. my splashwell I used rustoleum truck bed coating, and I like the look ( but about 2/3 of the spray bombs are shhhh as they clog right away. any ideas?

CC have you tried putting the new cans in a bucket of hot tap water, remove and shake the can and return to the water till it warms up significantly. I have found this really helps all spray cans work considerably better.

 

[Watermann]

When rattle can nozzles clog on me I drop them in a container of solvent and after a while remove them and use compressed air to blow them out in reverse, don't try poking them. Then shake the living daylights out of the can before trying again, I know most of us don't shake the cans enough. You could've got some old stock too that had the non skid stuff congeal in the bottom.

On my SS gunnels I rolled on Epifanes poly beads mixed into the tractor paint with catalyst hardener. The stuff is super durable, so far there isn't even a scratch in it.

 

[crankbait cowboy]

thanks guys, I got a bit of a disaster going now, as I tried the spray bombs, and ended up very inconsistent and blotchy, so switched to the roll on rustoleum bed coating. turned out pretty good, but not perfect, so 2 coats must be better than 1, right? wrong, second coat my roller let go and , now I got a real mess on 1/2 of splashwell with other 1/2 looking pretty good. ( my strive for perfection got me in trouble, and should have left well enough alone after 1 rolled coat. thinking now to sand down last ugly partial rolled coat, and try again with a quality roller. cant really come up with an easy fix, as I fear just putting on another coat over my mix of 1 and 2 coats is going to show. ( as 2 coats show different than 1 now) hard to explain, but a new roller on second coat was of cheap variety, and let loose / flapped/ and did not roll evenly, hopefully will get it fixed and get ya a before and after pic.roller should be here wed. unless ya got a better idea in mean time?

 

[Watermann]

The way I fixed my issues with a roller was to sand down the sags best I could and get an HVLP gun. Painting looks easy but it takes some practice and this sort of thing happens to the best of us.

 

[MD28]

If it makes you feel any better I just sprayed way too much primer on my outboard and had runs all over it. I basicly wiped it all off with a paper towel. The runs I missed I scraped down with a razor. Hold the razor at a near 90 to the surface and scrape the run (drip) down to nothing. Then I had to resand he whole thing again. Tomorrow is another day. I'll second the hvlp gun Waterman recommended, however practice a bit on some scrap plywood or something.

 

[crankbait cowboy]

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i hear ya md28, guess I gotta realize there is gonna be some set backs along the way, as I am out of my relm on a lot of this. my mistake was being to fussy after first coat , and then using a cheap foam roller. oops 1st 2 pics are after 1 coat of roll on rustoleum bed coating, and next to are trying to improve what I now know was plenty good with a cheap roller. gonna sand down the crap coat and try again.

 

[GA_Boater]

Look at this as practice for the next one, CC.

 

[crankbait cowboy]

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a summation of my splashwell paint job. I wanted some texture , mainly do to scratches that were hard to clean up. so I went with rustoleum "truck bed coating"
1st sand as best I could with 220 grit
2nd a coat of rustoleum self etch primer, and light sand
3rd spray bombs ( I used 4 different ones and none worked after a 3rd of can or so) looked pretty good, but my strive for perfection hurt me here as I could not leave alone
4th sand
5th use the roll on ( very hard to get an even texture ( it is truck bed stuff after all )
6th a coat of black gloss over liner
if the cans worked , I would be very happy as I liked the subtle texture, the roll on is a much rougher, not as clean look, but an exceptable look none the less. in hindsight I wish I would have fought thru the spray bombs, but after a coat of black gloss , the rougher look is wearing on me.
pics after gloss are hard to tell , do to glare. thoughts from the mob?

 

[DirtyHarry83]

I think it looks cool. I don't think I've seen anyone here do this before.
I think it came out nice from the photo's you're showing. Good work!

 

[Watermann]

If you're going to use bed liner on a boat the rusto stuff would be the best since it's just a non skid paint in a can. I used it on the step panels of my trailer and I'm not a fan of the rubberized type liner being used in a boat. I do like the look of non skid paint and I did a bunch on my SS and having it in the SW is just fine, I even thought about doing that too but didn't want to promote it as a place for people to stand. I have a fishing buddy who has no boundry to his trampling in my boats. :lol:

 

[crankbait cowboy]

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this girl been topless way to long , so I got after it this weekend. I started by sanding with 220, then taping before a coat of rustoleum self primer. then taped and sprayed the inside trim with rustoleum professional gloss black/ and the outside trim with gloss white.