1973 starcraft ss restore in progress

[Weep'n Willy]

Gotta love fresh venison. That's a pretty good size yote you got hanging there too. I have enjoyed a couple meals of backstraps so far since taking a buck on the 15th. Our firearm season ended yesterday and archery has started back up so hoping to get out and get one more before the end of the month.

 

[Watermann]

Awesome hunting season and some fine animals harvested! :thumb:

The Johnny, personally I wouldn't just replace what's leaking during a pressure test with a motor that has the years on it since rubber doesn't last forever sooner or later the one you didn't replace will go bad. My Johnny was having some water in the LU issues too so I pulled all the seals and replaced them, pretty cheap insurance and you don't have to worry about it for a few more decades that way.

Now the power head on the other hand I would decarb that sucker and run it until it starts to puke and then either rebuild or get rid of it. It'll probably only go another 10 or 15 years like that. :lol:

 

[GA_Boater]

Being a city boy, I thought that was Wasskly Wabbit. :lol:

 

[crankbait cowboy]

good advice all, am leaning towards h20 here after visiting with guys at work. like you say may be good for now , and a problem later after running it awhile. hoping the decarb will do the trick on head. looking at schematic, it is real hard to know what all seals i need to replace. if it held pressure was thinking maybe waqiting on the prop seals as i could do that anytime if needed but inside i should do now before putting back together. anybody got a good list of what i should be replacing inside?
on another note , that was a big yote, we left it on the pole a few days after quartering the deer, so it hung alone a few nights and low and behold some rotten backed to the pole and stole it. :grumpy: was gonna do a pelt to hang in huntin shack, but its gone for good. thought for awhile it was maybe a prank from some buds but it has been 3 weeks and nothin said. so now i have been spreading the word, and telling all that if i find out who it was , i am gonna take em skiing naked behind the buck truck

 

[Watermann]

If I were a betting man, I'd bet the prop shaft seal is the one leaking as they get the most abuse from all the junk in the water like weeds and fishing line. About all you need is the prop shaft seal and o-rings, drive shaft is a double seal with gasket for the housing and the shift shaft should just have a "bellows" type boot to seal it. I don't see one of the bellows on your shift shaft. I ordered the entire LU seal kit for mine that came with everything needed, you should be able to get the kit for yours.

 

[crankbait cowboy]

thanks water, where did you get your seal kit? and i assume the water pump kit is seperate and over and above what you are suggesting?

 

[SigSaurP229]

You have to order all of the seals individually. They are about $6 each 2 for the driveshaft, 1 maybe 2 for the propshaft gasket for the shift linkage and shift linkage seals all of it is less than $50 money WELL spent

 

[Watermann]

Yes the seals for the LU is in addition to the pump kit. What's the serial number for your motor, I will check around for the LU kit for it.

 

[crankbait cowboy]

115EL77S thanks water, i appreciate the help

 

[crankbait cowboy]

ooops, that is model. serial number is J4770456 , thanks again

 

[Watermann]

Right here, double check it's the right one. Forgot to mention, grab drain plug washers as well.

http://www.iboats.com/mall/partfinde...n_id=957027742

http://www.iboats.com/Drain-Fill-Pl...8330723--session_id.957027742--view_id.171803

 

[crankbait cowboy]

thanks h2o, double checked and got it ordered. nice of you to do some leg work for me, appreciate all the helpful souls on this forum.

 

[crankbait cowboy]

ordered the seals and water pump from iboats here ( thanks for the tracking down h20 ) and started to take the prop shaft bearing housing off today. it is being a real pita to say the least. last night i sprayed with penatrating oil, and removed the 4 bolts down in front end. this am i used a harmonic puller and threaded rod as suggested on this sight and also owners manual. i stripped the threaded rod threads , so got a couple 8 inch bolts and got it so tight i could not turn the socket even with an extension. so put the air gun on it a gave it short bursts. between bursts i tapped on housing and the bullet of casing with a rubber mallet. after about 4 times and no noticable progress one of the bolts broke, leaving a piece of bolt in housing that i wil need to easy out. the good is the threads in housing are holding. the bad is cannot budge the bearing housing. looking for ideas or suggestions once again. would a little heat be ok or a real nono. i plan to replace the seals and oring anyway, so if they got damaged i would not be concerned. sorry no pics ( forgot camera ) but if any of you got any experience with a real pita bearing housing i would appreciate any help you can give me. i am also going to post up in the johnson outboard forum. thanks

 

[Watermann]

Yeah those carriers can be a real pita alright. My Johnny wasn't so bad after I found just the right size jaw puller that has the lip and using just one of them, I was able to just hang on to the jaw with my hands and giving it a running start pulling up banging it like a slide hammer. Then move puller to the other hole, tap until it popped loose, I think it only took one 2 trips around too. Before pulling I also put a socket extension down in there and tapped all the way around it to help loosen the death grip and make sure I was pulling straight again. I also used PB blaster to saturate the whole area. I tried the all thread but it didn't work for me either so I was amazed at how easy it came out just with the jaw puller and my hands.

 

[classiccat]

ordered the seals and water pump from iboats here ( thanks for the tracking down h20 ) and started to take the prop shaft bearing housing off today. it is being a real pita to say the least. last night i sprayed with penatrating oil, and removed the 4 bolts down in front end. this am i used a harmonic puller and threaded rod as suggested on this sight and also owners manual. i stripped the threaded rod threads , so got a couple 8 inch bolts and got it so tight i could not turn the socket even with an extension. so put the air gun on it a gave it short bursts. between bursts i tapped on housing and the bullet of casing with a rubber mallet. after about 4 times and no noticable progress one of the bolts broke, leaving a piece of bolt in housing that i wil need to easy out. the good is the threads in housing are holding. the bad is cannot budge the bearing housing. looking for ideas or suggestions once again. would a little heat be ok or a real nono. i plan to replace the seals and oring anyway, so if they got damaged i would not be concerned. sorry no pics ( forgot camera ) but if any of you got any experience with a real pita bearing housing i would appreciate any help you can give me. i am also going to post up in the johnson outboard forum. thanks

I heat LU housings with a heat gun when removing the bearing carrier. I never had to go hotter than that. Also make sure the vent plug is out...this way you're not working against atmosphere by creating a vacuum inside.

 

[crankbait cowboy]

well i got er out. for those going down this road, what worked for me was penatrating oil for 4 days while shooting roosters in s.d. harmonic puller as suggested and an air wrench , tighten down, back off a bit tap around it on out side and inside, repeat after about 4 times just kept tightening down on puller with short burst on air gun and lo and behold i could see it move the littlest bit, kept tightening down with short bursts and it kept coming. so from the sould of it i may of got a bit lucky as no heat needed.

 

[dozerII]

Nice job, CC, patience is a virtue.

 

[Weep'n Willy]

That's great, persistence does pay off. PB Blaster does also work well to free stuck stuff but even better is ATF. It will creep into every nook and cranny. I can take overnight but always seems to work better for me.

 

[GA_Boater]

Good, CC. How did the LU guts look? Is a just reseal going to do the trick?

 

[crankbait cowboy]

bearings look good on bearing housing and thrust bearing looks good also, so put seals and oring in bearing housing, and going to clean up real good and leave the bearings i am thinking