1973 Sea Nymph COHO 16 Transom

[Stilldoc]

To begin with, this is my first boat so cut me some slack.
This boat came with a 1991 40hp Johnson which is operational. I decided that the first thing I should do is replace the transom board and plate. I've removed the motor and boards and now I'm trying to decide how to rebuild the transom, but it seems as if how it was assembled as received was a little wonky.

There is a wedge shaped piece across the inside which I assume helps stabilize the transom from torqueing force. As you can see from the photo where I have circled in red, the top engine bolts went through the upper margin of this and tore through partially. The bottom bolts went below the transom board and through the wedge shaped support. Because of the different angle of that and the transom, the head of the bolt was also at an angle, which seems odd.

Is this the way it is intended to be? Is it okay to remount the motor in the same way? I'm not sure I have much choice since the maximum spacing between the top and bottom motor mounts is only 8 1/4 inches and the wedge shape piece is 12 inches vertically.

Thanks for any comments.

 

[Stilldoc]

Did I post this in the wrong place?

 

[Stilldoc]

iBoaters...Where are you!!!!

 

[Scott06]

iBoaters...Where are you!!!!

It may be tough to find people with first hand experience on a 50 year old tinny. My thought is its good you are replacing the wood, and no I don't see an issue with replacing the bolt as is. the force of the engine will be pushing against the transom. Only other option if it really bothers you is to drill a new hole so bolt is straight. Maybe fab a wedge shaped washer So it sits flat, but Im not sure if it worth the effort.
the engine obviously working since it was repowered right?

 

[Wildey]

Interesting .... that motor is clearly much newer than the boat, and there doesn't appear to be any other holes from an earlier mounting. If it were, not likely the holes would match up (my luck) so maybe it only had clamp on motors previously. The upper and lower bolts are a bit wonky As long as the upper ones aren't cutting into the horizontal web of the gusset, they should be OK. The lower ones however appear to be clamping over a void between the gusset and the transom. I don't like that. I would put a wedged shaped filler in where the bolts go through, or pack it with a couple wads of gorilla hair to solidify the clamping.
And, I really dig your console !

 

[JDH-GL]

Looks like the motor was custom mounted.

I also dislike the clamping in that angled/void area. My thoughts are to make the new transom board go as deep as possible into that space. Possible use an electric planer (or possible a table saw) to cut an angle on the new transom board. You would need to make sure to leave a gap at the bottom for water to drain out.

 

[Wildey]

My thoughts are to make the new transom board go as deep as possible into that space.

Good plan ! I agree. Having not seen what wood came out, I'd almost bet that it DID go to the bottom of that V. And, a square edge might go low enough to catch the lower bolt holes.

 

[racerone]

Replace wood inside the boat.-----Replace wood outside the boat.-----Use the upper holes in the motor brackets.-----Make a wedge for the lower bolts so that nuts go against a flat surface.

 

[Wildey]

Use the upper holes in the motor brackets.

Absolutely right ! Nice catch, I didn't notice that.

 

[Stilldoc]

Thank you for your thoughts. I've done a lot of searching and haven't found anyone with this type of transom brace (or console). I do suspect that the boat from the factory had a clamp on motor, then someone repowered it and installed it the best they could. I ran the boat on the water a couple of times before removing the motor and had no problems and I could put it back together that way, but it just seems an inelegant configuration.

After giving it some thought, I think I will re-install by placing the upper mounting bolts higher and the lower bolts inside the brace with the nuts against the transom board and reinforced with large washers.

Now I just have to decide the best way to patch the four 1/2 inch holes in the aluminum which is complicated by the fact that they are sandwiched between the transom board and the plywood transom plate so that any repair needs to be pretty flush.

 

[racerone]

??----Glue some dimes or nickels in the holes.----Install new wood on the inside and outside .---Drill new holes and you are done.--No need to overthink this simple repair in my opinion.

 

[Stilldoc]

??----Glue some dimes or nickels in the holes.----Install new wood on the inside and outside .---Drill new holes and you are done.--No need to overthink this simple repair in my opinion.

Good idea. I used plugs cut out from some same thickness aluminum sheet and covered inside and out with a thin coat of J-B Weld SteelStik.

 

[MSgt-OBX]

To begin with, this is my first boat so cut me some slack.
This boat came with a 1991 40hp Johnson which is operational. I decided that the first thing I should do is replace the transom board and plate. I've removed the motor and boards and now I'm trying to decide how to rebuild the transom, but it seems as if how it was assembled as received was a little wonky.

There is a wedge shaped piece across the inside which I assume helps stabilize the transom from torqueing force. As you can see from the photo where I have circled in red, the top engine bolts went through the upper margin of this and tore through partially. The bottom bolts went below the transom board and through the wedge shaped support. Because of the different angle of that and the transom, the head of the bolt was also at an angle, which seems odd.

Is this the way it is intended to be? Is it okay to remount the motor in the same way? I'm not sure I have much choice since the maximum spacing between the top and bottom motor mounts is only 8 1/4 inches and the wedge shape piece is 12 inches vertically.

Thanks for any comments.

 

[MSgt-OBX]

When replacing the plywood, make sure that your seal the ply before installing it. I have used penetrating epoxy (By Total Boat) to much success. I also noted your pictures of the transom corner. They need substantial reinforcement as there is a lot of stress there. The good news is that's an aluminum boat and everything you need to address is accessible. Good Luck.

 

[Stilldoc]

When replacing the plywood, make sure that your seal the ply before installing it. I have used penetrating epoxy (By Total Boat) to much success. I also noted your pictures of the transom corner. They need substantial reinforcement as there is a lot of stress there. The good news is that's an aluminum boat and everything you need to address is accessible. Good Luck.

I sealed the transom board with 3 coats of Helmsman Spar Urethane. Are you referring to the area where the corner caps were removed?

 

[MSgt-OBX]

I sealed the transom board with 3 coats of Helmsman Spar Urethane. Are you referring to the area where the corner caps were removed?

If you have the corner caps, you are good. I thought they were just "missing".