1973 MFG Carefree Restore

sphelps

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 16, 2011
Messages
11,455
Lets back up a second ... Are you sure the transom is rotted ... Did you drill any core sample holes and inspect the shavings ? You said it was wet .. What part was wet ? If the wood in the top part of the transom is not rotted you may be able to leave that section ... Even still you could actually cut up the edge and pack the seacast in on the 2 upper wings . Its pretty thick stuff ... The catch is you will need to pour the bottom part then let that part set up then pack the wings full ... Otherwise it will keep running out and get quite messy ... How good are you with a chainsaw and do you have one ?
 

Chrisravosa36

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 16, 2015
Messages
622
Never used a Chainsaw, I do have time and a Sawzall with a 12' Blade, im sure I can find a chainsaw though. I peaked in-between the top of the transom around where the motor would go, Il do some drill samples this afternoon and take pictures. Are you saying I could just leave those wind wood, and pour the rest seacast? Thats what im thinking, but will the seacast bond to that at all? Going to get a second coat of paint on this week also!
 

sphelps

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 16, 2011
Messages
11,455
It would bond somewhat to the wood but with the price you pay for it I would do the whole transom .. JMHO .. Talk with the people over there .. They can give you there opinion on the best way to proceed if you choose to go with it .. They can send you a conversion chart so you don't have to mix the whole bucket up at one time .. That way you can pour up to the top of the transom . Then pour the wings after the bottom has hardened ..
If you borrow a chainsaw make sure you get one with the bar long enough to reach the bottom of the transom .. If you don't feel comfortable running a saw you might get a friend with chainsaw experience to help out ... When the chain hits the fiberglass it has a different feel and sound to it so you know when to let up .. You don't want to cut a hole in the bottom ... You will need to make some long handled tools to get all the wood out and the glass just as CLEAN as you possibly can ..
I wouldn't do any more painting in the transom area if it were me ..Not until the transom is fixed ..
 

Chrisravosa36

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 16, 2015
Messages
622
Ok, I dont plan to do anymore painting in the transom area till the spring.. Im not going to be using the towing bars on the back for really anything, Im going to add a pole in the center of the boat for skiing and tubing. My Father does have some experience with a chainsaw, he will help me with this. By the way, your help is very appreciated, I dont know what id do without it.
 

sphelps

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 16, 2011
Messages
11,455
. Im not going to be using the towing bars on the back for really anything,

If you mean the stern eyes you will need those to tie the boat down to your trailer ... Just take them out and re-install after you fix the transom ...
 

Chrisravosa36

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 16, 2015
Messages
622
If you mean the stern eyes you will need those to tie the boat down to your trailer ... Just take them out and re-install after you fix the transom ...


I usally dont use those, I just use thrown 2 straps over the front and back and buckle it down... I really dont feel like taking ff the top, and filling in the wings, do you think thats possible?
 

sphelps

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 16, 2011
Messages
11,455
I think you could fill them without taking the cap off . But you are going to have to cut the top lip of the transom off .. Just cut the curved section a little higher to gain access to the wings .. What hp is the motor that's going on .. You might want to talk with the folks at seacast about leaving the wood in the wings ..
The strap over the boat for hauling works fine .. I just hate the way it vibrates and hums going down the road .. :D
 

Chrisravosa36

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 16, 2015
Messages
622
Il Panning on putting a 40hp 2 Stroke on it, and a CMC Power trim or Tilt system if I cannot find a 40hp merc power trim.
 
Last edited:

Chrisravosa36

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 16, 2015
Messages
622
So, Here she is all painted up (Blue) I have not done the white paint yet, il save that for the spring, cleaned up the windshield, fitted that in, was a PAIN! It has a few deep scratches I don't really know how id get those out?? Still have to repaint the lights silver, I believe they are the original lights.

(First time using Photo Bucket)









 
Last edited:

TruckDrivingFool

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Jul 30, 2007
Messages
1,818
If you mean the stern eyes you will need those to tie the boat down to your trailer ... Just take them out and re-install after you fix the transom ...

Plus the stern eyes will save that pretty blue paint (like the color) from being rubbed off by the strap vibrating and buzzing.
 

Chrisravosa36

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 16, 2015
Messages
622
Plus the stern eyes will save that pretty blue paint (like the color) from being rubbed off by the strap vibrating and buzzing.

I found out those eyes will not be connected to the wings, they are a bit lower accutally and are level with the part I will be seatcsting, so Im not sure if I should do the wings..??






I discovered today that the Transoms 1 layer is rotted, but the second piece of wood it still laminated and in tact, will be preforming the seat cast in the spring, need to find a chainsaw :D





 
Last edited:

sphelps

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 16, 2011
Messages
11,455
Yep looks really wet and just starting to rot ... Some home made chisels and scrapers will be needed .. You will need to get both sides of the skins as clean as you can .. when you think you have it clean .. Clean some more ..Then clean some more ..You pay a bunch of money for this stuff so there is no way you want to risk failure because of taking short cuts on your prep work ..JMHO ... I welded a wire wheel to a rod an used a drill to run in there .. Worked pretty well . You may need to experiment with different size wheels to get a good size ..Gunna need some acetone .. That will help get a alot of the old residue an any oil from the chainsaw out ..
Go slow with the saw . Like I said earlier when the chain hits the fiberglass it has a different feel and sound to it . Getting a long wood bit to drill as many holes as close together as you can at first will help a lot before the chainsaw .. A shop vac with a home made long skinny nozzle will come in handy also ..
It takes a while to get the wood out . Just be patient and you'll get it ...
Good luck !
 

Chrisravosa36

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 16, 2015
Messages
622
... Some home made chisels and scrapers will be needed .. What will these be needed for??
 

sphelps

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 16, 2011
Messages
11,455
Something with a handle long enough to reach the bottom of the transom . Sharp enough to scrape the sides down to fresh glass .. ... Another good tool would be about a 3 foot 2x2 ... Wrap and fasten some heavy grit sand paper around one end about 10 or 12 inches long .. I would use 36 grit .. Run that up and down ,back and forth to help clean the old residue off the inside of both inside and outside transom skins .. Best possible bond is what your looking for and clean glass is what seacast best adheres to ... Once poured and cured that transom will be good for ever ...
How are the stringers ? Have you checked them for rot ?
 

Chrisravosa36

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 16, 2015
Messages
622
I dont belive my boat has them... one level, a step up for the seat then a downstep, them under the bow theres foam covered with glass.
 

sphelps

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 16, 2011
Messages
11,455
I'm sure it has some type of stringer system .. The older models had all glass stringers and deck ... They started using wood for the deck and stringers at some point but I'm not sure of the year they switched .. Probably to save manufacturing cost .. http://www.fiberglassics.com/library/File:Mfgb73015.jpg
How about some good pics of the inside ..
 

Chrisravosa36

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 16, 2015
Messages
622
There is just a small deck where the wood seats go, I already tore that up and am working on fixing it up and glassing it, Iv had a buddy tap the boat on the bottom with a hammer, and I can directly feel it.



 

sphelps

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 16, 2011
Messages
11,455
So is that the deck or the actual hull bottom ? No foam under that ?
 

Chrisravosa36

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 16, 2015
Messages
622
Actual bottom. I believe there was no deck in these boats, in the add it does not show one, all the foam was under the small deck you'd put seats, under the actual bow top, and under the bow there is a small enclosed triangle full of foam, i've checked ad all but the one under the seats are not waterlogged. Also the floor was painted at one time, soooo its most likely the floor. And its really hard, no soft spot.,
 

Chrisravosa36

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 16, 2015
Messages
622
Another thing I need to work on is my seating system. Id like back to back seats (2 of them) but those take up alot of room.... I could just not bolt them down, and slide them up every-time I want more room in the back to fish, but that would be a pain. I would like to make something that would allow me to put the seats back, lock in place, then slide them forward towards the dash when I want more room in the back when Id like to fish.

I had the Idea making a trac out of 2x2s, but that wouldnt lock, Il draw up some digrams and picture this after, thanks!
 
Top