1972 15' Nova rebuild

[Weep'n Willy]

Decals look great. Man, that is a tough decision. If you go with the black on the trim then I might have to opt for the black decals otherwise I may have to go for the other decal with a little brightness to go with the alum trim.

 

[Watermann]

Interesting vinyl AL paint... although only having one color choice in semi flat is too limited, to bad they don't have a neutral base that can be tinted.

Nice looking re-pop decals, I like the red, white & blue.

 

[classiccat]

+1 on the color decal; That's the NOVA trademark :madgrin: I'll be hitting this guy up when that time comes! :thumb:

[/IMG]http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/p689/churchilljason/Logodecals_zps061013f0.jpg[/IMG]

 

[classiccat]

+1 on the color decal; That's the NOVA trademark :madgrin: I'll be hitting this guy up when that time comes! :thumb:

 

[Tnstratofam]

I have to admit the olive drab with black accents is nice, but I'm with waterman it would be nicer if there were more color options . I too like the red white and blue nova decals the best.

 

[MNhunter1]

I have to admit the olive drab with black accents is nice, but I'm with waterman it would be nicer if there were more color options . I too like the red white and blue nova decals the best.

Yeah, I wish there were a few more color options also. I did a bunch of research on the most durable paints and wanted to stick with a somehwat flat or satin finish due to some of the imperfections in the hull. I like the fact that it goes on straight to the aluminum as the whole painting process appears to be the biggest crutch in my process in regard to time. Still undecided on a dusting of ZC primer as I have three spray bomb cans that will probably just go to waste, but I haven't been able to find any recommendations for or against with this paint. Sounds like it may be the paint that is frequently used on factory jon boats and such?? It's said that the most durable finish is obtained without thinning, so I'm not sure whether I'll roll it on or use the 2.5mm HVLP I picked up and try to thin as little as possible if any. I'd prefer to spray, but it would be a new learning experience and I'd be lying if I said I didn't have any hesitations. Still some time before I reach that point.

Glad the SS I aquired already had a new white dress on the hull. This flipping, stripping, prepping, priming, painting business is the biggest hurdle in my process so far. It's amazing how inconviently and unexpectedly timed the needs of an admiral and a couple first mates can be at times As well as how limited workspace can be with a two stall garage, two cars, two, boats, and more strollers and kids toys than I care to claim. Funny how I still consider it my therapy

 

[Tnstratofam]

I totally agree it's amazing how easily we are pulled away from the things we want to do by those bothersome things like The Admiral! She can't read what I'm posting now so I can say that like I don't run at her beckoned call! On the space constraints I can't use that as an excuse as my garage is nearly 2000 square feet. Filled to the brim with junk, but if I'd get my rear in gear and straighten it up a bit I could accommodate a couple more projects besides the Stratos.:facepalm: Of course it seems every time I start the cleaning process I only manage to make more room for the Admiral's next honey do project.

Back to your Nova. As far as painting goes that would be good if the process were a little easier. As far as whether to roll versus spray I'm not sure which would be better. From the work you've done so far I'm sure whatever you decide will look great.

 

[MNhunter1]

Shopping for new wood for the dash and bow cap slats/supports. Is common pine board coated with some spar sufficient, or should I spend the few extra bucks on something better? Poplar, cedar, ash, oak...?? The dash will be covered in either paint, vinyl, or aluminum and the slats hidden and protected under the bow cap. No fancy wood grain to worry about, just looking for structure and durability.

 

[64osby]

White oak, Cedar, Teak, Mahogany would be good, Ash or Poplar would be better than pine.


Pine is one of the softest woods available.

 

[Watermann]

I would use some 3/4" ply for the bow supports with a good coat of spar. Not sure why you couldn't use ply for the dash too.

 

[dozerII]

If it is all going to be covered pick up a 1/2 sheet of 3/4"Baltic birch 15 ply, it is void free very very stable and easy to work with.

 

[MNhunter1]

The bow cap supports are currently all 1x4 slats, thought it would be easy peasey to just cut new ones to length and coat. Is 3/4" ply going to be stronger and worth the extra effort to rip into a punch of 4" wide strips? Longest board would be just shy of 5ft.

 

[dozerII]

Ply is much stronger and more stable than dimensional lumber.

 

[jbcurt00]

And if you are replacing the bow slat supports anyway, I'd highly recommend making them T supports out of the 3/4" ply.

In a 5ft long 3.5in wide strip, the ply wouldn't be substantially stronger (IMO) then the dimensional lumber, but absolutely it'd be more stable.

A vertical 1.5" strip of 3/4" plywood glued and screwed along the center line under the slats will substantially strengthen the slats as well.

Required? No
Original? No

Worth it? Yep (IMO)

Needs to be well planned to make sure it doesn't interfere w/ the installation of a bow light/handle/cleats

 

[MNhunter1]

Ply it is then. Thanks everyone!

 

[dozerII]

Ply it is then. Thanks everyone!

See if you can find Baltic Birch 13 or 15 ply

 

[jbcurt00]

See if you can find Baltic Birch 13 or 15 ply

That stuff ^^^ is really nice looking ply, and IS probably stronger then dimensional lumber.

 

[dozerII]

That stuff ^^^ is really nice looking ply, and IS probably stronger then dimensional lumber.

I really like this stuff most stable wood I ever worked with, I found it at both Lowes and Homedepot in the U.S.

 

[MNhunter1]

$70 for the Baltic vs $46 for Arauco ACX in a 3/4" 4x8 sheet...is there $24 worth of difference?

 

[MNhunter1]

Also...floatation. I've got 100 pool noodles sitting in waiting, but seriously considering going the XPS route instead, actually, pretty well decided already. My 16SS arrived to me with brand new sealed ply floor already riveted over a hull packed with brand new EPS for floatation. I already know the consensus, but figured I'd ask the question anyhow...worth it to drill out the rivets, yank the floor, and replace the brand new EPS with all new XPS? I'm hoping I could still find the same holes when reinstalling the floor.