1971 Silverline Comoro 16.5

[Wrenchstench92]

Hey guys what’s up. Apologies to revive an old thread, but there is a method to my madness. Just joined the forum, found the site from searching the web about the boat I just picked up. And just so happens I stumbled upon this thread. I now own this exact boat.

My name is Angelo, I work with the guy that had the boat. I am a heavy equipment/ diesel mechanic and I am very mechanically inclined, so I will be saving and restoring this silverline.

To answer a few questions, the out drive is in fact an OMC, the motor is a carbureted v6, and being that it is 1971 like you guys said, it will be the Kaiser Jeep 225.

Also I found what I believe to be the trim switch, it was removed by someone and just left lying on the floor.

The boat is in really good shape for the condition. The hour meter reads 391 hours , which is very low for how old it is , the hull does not have any scratches or dents , the transom is in great shape both inside and out, all the bezels/ rails/ cleats etc are all there and still shiny/ no pitting. The glass is all perfect. The seats are all present and none of the upholstery is ripped , just needs a good cleaning.

The only thing that really needs attention is the floor needs to be redone, and a few of the floor beams (what the technical term?) need to be cut out and replaced, also I know it would probably be wise to replace the bellows if I can find one. This one seems ok but it’s been in the sun for so many years.

Also the trailer seems to be the original trailer as it is also a 1971. I will be going through the trailer as well and making it mint. That’s easy peasy stuff.

Any and all tips and advice I will gladly take from you guys. And moving forward, if any of you guys or other users have engine/ mechanical/ electrical trouble I will surely contribute.

Also my apologies for posting in the other thread. I understand the rules, figured since I now own the same boat I would post there. Again I apologize.

 

[southkogs]

Welcome aboard: I haven't had my Comoro in years, but still kinda' miss it! Slower'n molasses in January, but a really smooth ride.

Floor supports you're talking about are the stringers: replacing them is no small project. And they're not just the support for the deck, they're the bones of the hull while it's on the water - so, if they're bad, the boat isn't seaworthy.

The bellows on an OMC Stringer like that is the drive boot - you can still find those.

Have you had it out on the water yet?

The gut check here is that this isn't a boat to go have fun on the weekends, then quickly clean and put up for a week. A vintage (<== "old and obsolete") OMC driveline in a boat that needs new stringers is a project. At the end of that project you'll have a boat that will like as much attention in the driveway as it does on the lake. Assuming that's an electric shift OMC, you've got a finicky drive that most marine techs won't want to touch. I liked mine, and kept it running for a long time. But, it'll keep you turning wrenches.

 

[Wrenchstench92]

Welcome aboard: I haven't had my Comoro in years, but still kinda' miss it! Slower'n molasses in January, but a really smooth ride.

Floor supports you're talking about are the stringers: replacing them is no small project. And they're not just the support for the deck, they're the bones of the hull while it's on the water - so, if they're bad, the boat isn't seaworthy.

The bellows on an OMC Stringer like that is the drive boot - you can still find those.

Have you had it out on the water yet?

The gut check here is that this isn't a boat to go have fun on the weekends, then quickly clean and put up for a week. A vintage (<== "old and obsolete") OMC driveline in a boat that needs new stringers is a project. At the end of that project you'll have a boat that will like as much attention in the driveway as it does on the lake. Assuming that's an electric shift OMC, you've got a finicky drive that most marine techs won't want to touch. I liked mine, and kept it running for a long time. But, it'll keep you turning wrenches.

 

[Wrenchstench92]

Good morning southkogs, appreciate the welcome.

I have not had it out on the water yet, just got it to my house over the weekend.

Ok cool so the boards are the stringers. They are not completely bad, there are 2 or 3 that have like maybe 1/2” from the top are a little soft. I figure I can mark them and cut out the rotted soft sections, then add what’s missing on top and secure between the stringers for support. Yes I understand now, the stringers are what the bottom of the hull was shaped to and provides support. I will get pictures and get your guys opinions later today hopefully.

I totally understand this is a project. Being that I have been a heavy equipment/ diesel mechanic for over 10 years, I apply my work ethic to everything I do. And that means all aspects of the craft need to be in tip top before attempting to go in the water. I am not afraid to work on anything, so the OMC electric shift doesn’t scare me. It seems like a fairly simple system just needs patience and attention to detail.

For example, I work at an aircraft boneyard (junkyard for commercial planes) and I am their GSE mechanic (Ground Support Equipment), so I work on everything that isn’t aviation. I have resurrected ancient tugs and gen sets, like one tug was sitting in the desert for decades, I totally went through it and got it operating like new, it is a 1964 tug with a Chrysler flathead, points ignition, 727 trans and planetary axles. I know this isn’t related to boats, just saying that I have experience working on vintage equipment and in the end, the vintage stuff is built way better than the new stuff.

But anyways back to the boat stuff, I plan on first inspecting the entire boat, making a list and going from there.

Again I appreciate the warm welcome, and look forward to conversing with you you guys and keeping you all updated on the progress.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Welcome aboard

I had a 1984 boat with an OMC stringer 400. similar but different than the 71 drive you have.

items like the transom boot are still available, however becoming pricey.

finding parts for a company that went out of business 30 years ago can be iffy

regarding rot in a boat. its there long before you see it. that is the part that is expensive and time consuming to repair. Not the mechanical stuff. you can always repower to a mercruiser or volvo if you have to rebuild your stringers and transom due to the soft stringers

we all have been there, post pics and we can walk you thru most of it.

every bit of information you need for restoration or other items can be found in the stickies. like this one from the hull restoration sub-forum. https://forums.iboats.com/threads/how-tos-and-other-great-information.283508/

see link 14, and go thru it in its entirety. then go on to 15, 18, 2, 3, 4a, and 4b

 

[Wrenchstench92]

Good morning Scott. I appreciate all the info. I will go over the link you supplied, and educate myself. Also I will post pictures when I get home. I haven’t used a forum in a few years, what’s a good image hosting site you guys use. Years ago I used I think it was photobucket

 

[Scott Danforth]

photobucket broke the interweb when they held everyone's photos hostage. we now just upload reduced size images directly to the forum. just set your camera/phone camera resolution to normal, not the super-giant format that the programmers seem to think we need.

you can also put pics in your media bucket (look around on the top of the screen when you are on a computer (not a phone) or change your phone to desktop mode.

 

[Wrenchstench92]

photobucket broke the interweb when they held everyone's photos hostage. we now just upload reduced size images directly to the forum. just set your camera/phone camera resolution to normal, not the super-giant format that the programmers seem to think we need.

you can also put pics in your media bucket (look around on the top of the screen when you are on a computer (not a phone) or change your phone to desktop mode.

Awesome man appreciate those tips will do. Also I am busy at work but I glanced over some of those links- wow a lot of good info in there thank for that. Till later have a good day guys

 

[Wrenchstench92]

Hey guys what’s up. I am home now about to go work on the boat for a little while. My wife and I just had our first son he is about 3 weeks old so I had to do my share of taking care of the baby, but god bless my wife she’s cool and understands that my “me” time is working on my projects. Anyways I should have a post here shortly with pics.

 

[Wrenchstench92]

Alright guys. Got everything out of the boat so I could get pictures of the stringers and hull. It’s rough. Like really rough. I weigh 300 lbs and I can hear everything creaking and crunching under my feet. The good thing is I got the boat for free so I have not lost any investment yet.

It looks like the previous owner hacked at the floor with an axe. I have experience with vintage stuff, you have to take your time and take it apart gently and patiently. But I guess he just literally ripped apart the floor and damaged most of the stringers in the process.

Majority of the stringers need to be replaced, or at least I need to cut them down until nice clean wood is exposed. It seems either the type of wood Silverline used when rotted turns black, or there was som sort of fire on board. The wood almost seems charred.

It’s definitely a lot of work, but I’m going into it understanding it’s a project and I am in no rush to get it done. I want to repair it the correct way and build it back even better than when new.

A few questions.

When I eventually replace the stringers, can I just use some thicker stronger wood ? Like it seems the stringers are 1 inch x 4-8 inch, can I use the same height but for thickness use
2x8s or whatever? Does it have to be a specific type of wood or it doesn’t matter since it will all be encased in glass?

How does the motor mounts attach to the boat? Like I guess I will find out when I get all the crap wood out, but how does the weight of the motor get supported? Seems that may be something I will have to strengthen as well.

Lastly, where would the water intake be on the OMC drive? I’m confused as I don’t see any inlet ports.

I’m glad I got this boat of the other guys hands. He surely would have taken it out and sunk quickly. This needs major work not a band aid. But again I’m not afraid, and one day I can just upgrade to a jet drive and throw a big block in it.

I will make a separate reply with the pictures.

 

[Wrenchstench92]

Ok here are some pictures. Make sure you’re sitting down…

 

[Scott Danforth]

You have to pull the motor and drive before going any further

Take pictures and measurements of the stringer system

Expect to pay $3k with if plywood, fiberglass, foam and gel to restore it, not including incidentals, and any tools

 

[Wrenchstench92]

Good morning Scott. Yeah once I got in there and saw the damage I figured that was the next step. No worries this will be a prolonged project, but I will take my time, do it right and have fun. I enjoy restoring stuff and the end result will be worth it.

I was reading through the post for item 14 you mentioned, frisco’s stringer restoration, maybe I missed it but do I have to shore up the boat? Meaning once I pull the motor, and start removing stringers, will the boat flex or crack, and especially my body weight, can you work on top of the fiberglass hull or will it break? It seems to me you can’t walk on that, but in his post he was standing inside the boat with the stringers removed. I just don’t want to send my foot through the hull. The boat is pretty stable on the trailer.

Also would you like me to create a new thread in one of the other sections, since this is now a major project, or is it fine to keep it here ?

 

[Scott Danforth]

if you decide to uncap the deck, make a cradle to hold the deck shape, remove the rubrail, then remove the screws, and using ratchet straps to the ceiling rafters, you can remove the cap yourself.

or get a few buddies to come over and lift. the cap is about 150#, with most of the weight being the bow area.

your choice on creating a new thread or we can move it.

 

[Wrenchstench92]

if you decide to uncap the deck, make a cradle to hold the deck shape, remove the rubrail, then remove the screws, and using ratchet straps to the ceiling rafters, you can remove the cap yourself.

or get a few buddies to come over and lift. the cap is about 150#, with most of the weight being the bow area.

your choice on creating a new thread or we can move it.

Roger that. I guess I will see what route I decide to go. Like you said, first step is to remove the motor and drive.

You can move the thread to whatever topic you decide is the best. I appreciate your help.

 

[southkogs]

One consideration since you're going in this deep: you'll be at a point where you could rebuild the transom if you decided to go a little bit deeper. That would allow you to re-power the boat to a newer Mercruiser or Volvo stern drive. - it's a good time to think about that: and the newer powerplant would make the boat a little less finicky later.

 

[Wrenchstench92]

One consideration since you're going in this deep: you'll be at a point where you could rebuild the transom if you decided to go a little bit deeper. That would allow you to re-power the boat to a newer Mercruiser or Volvo stern drive. - it's a good time to think about that: and the newer powerplant would make the boat a little less finicky later.

Yes I will keep that in mind. If I do a repower, I would just opt for a Chevy small block just to keep things simple and cheap, and parts are eveywhete for a small block. I could do a big block but that’s overkill for this little boat. A stock 350 would be fine.

 

[MikeSchinlaub]

Sorry I haven't chipped in yet. The original thread was created before my time here, so I didn't get a notification until it was moved. Now, to give my opinion on some of your questions in no particular order.

You can stand on the inside of the hull, shouldn't be a problem unless the glass is busted.

2x whatever lumber will work fine for the stringers. Make sure to get taller than the current measurement so you can cut a bevel into the bottom for a better fit to the hull, and because it's easier to glass them in tall and shave down than cut them too short and have to add height. Also, absolutely no treated on any of the lumber for this project. Although people have used it and been fine, I recommend against it because it's meant to repel water, and the resin needs to soak in for a good bond.

Go ahead and do the whole stringer. Just take a recip saw with a long blade along the bottom. By the time you trim down trying to find good wood, it would have been quicker and easier to just do the whole thing.

When you finish cutting the floor out, leave a lip of the glass all around the inner hull. This will help get the height for the new stringers.

The motor mounts are usually a solid stack of lumber from the hull or sometimes a hollow box with foam inside. They're bedded in thickened resin and glassed to the hull and stringers.

Yes I will keep that in mind. If I do a repower, I would just opt for a Chevy small block just to keep things simple and cheap, and parts are eveywhete for a small block. I could do a big block but that’s overkill for this little boat. A stock 350 would be fine.

Mechanical stuff is over my head, however I know one random thing because I asked the boss about it once. Because boats don't have transmissions with multiple gears, the motors have to be built for really high rpm.