1968 Starcraft Jetstar restoration

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Jul 31, 2014
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This is my first attempt at restoring an old boat for use. After debating long enough I decided to buy this boat as is for $200. For the last couple of weeks I have been dismantling the boat in order to strip the old paint off and repaint with new colors. I have been reading several posts from others who are doing the same work. Thank you for all the advice.
 

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Here are pictures of various parts as I have dismantled the boat.
 

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lckstckn2smknbrls

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Nice boat I'm working on a '68 Falcon.
Based on the style of the windshield it might be older than 1968.
 

TruckDrivingFool

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Welcome to the Starmada! Nice score on the Jet they're great little boats. :)

Saw the pics and said three knee braces not a '68, was going to point you to LakeLover's resto but Woody beat me to it.
 
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I have been reading those posts. Lots of good info. Regarding the year, it was registered as a 1968 model. Though there is always possibility of errors. What year do ya'll think it is?
Any suggestions on paint brand? Rustoleum?
 

jbcurt00

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Early-mid 60s, IF the bubble windshield is the original windshield.

That yellowish creme hull color looks similar to mine. I think mines a 1963
 
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Stripping off the layers of paint-light blue is the original color. Not sure if the windshield is original. I am ready to get this moving. Paint removal and prepping are not my favorite jobs. I plan to finish this phase by March 30th, Weather permitting.
Today I am removing the side rub rails, windshield, cleats, and lights. I will put Kleen stip on the top deck and remove as much old paint as possible. I plan to sand the insides and top deck with 200 grit wet/dry sandpaper to smooth out. Hopefully this is all I will have to do before applying a primer (etching).
 

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Here is today's progress. Wish I could have done more.
 

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TruckDrivingFool

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Mine still has the capacity plate that says it's a '68 and it only has one knee brace. LL's has three and I believe it's a 64. I'd bet the windshield is the original as it too is different then mine so I think it's safe to say that JB's early to mid 60's is right.

I'd say you got a good days work in.
 
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Flipped the boat, and working on paint removal. I have a question about pitting below the waterline. Is there any product to cover before priming? Also have a small tear I need to repair.
 
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Must be a stress crack from the trailer. I think the corrosion is from paint that was on it along time ago. Looks like it was cleaned up but not treated. My plan is to sand, then clean with water/vinegar 50/50 mix, scrubbing with a stainless steel brush. Then either braze the hole or use jb weld. As far as the corrosion, it is the length of the boat but only in the middle. I plan to use a thin layer of metal 2 metal, sand, prime with Duralux Alum boat paint. Then I will paint two coats of color of choice duralux. If I should treat problems any other way-please let me know.
 

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It is a little dark but here it is. About mid way from the side to the middle. Under the black paint. The paint is where the previous owner sprayed the trailer rollers. That is what I though could have caused the tear.
 

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This is what I am working with. The pictures show pitted aluminum. I think the problem was corrected before this paint job. Should I use metal to metal on the bottom to cover the pitting before priming and painting?
I will get the small hole tig welded before priming or covering.
 

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Pusher

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I've used acid etching to clean aircraft aluminum before anodizing to get the corrosion out. You could follow the acid etch up with some self-etching primer probably but I'm not a painter by any means. Keeps your post bumped up until it's answered though, right?!?

Be careful you don't get any stainless bristles stuck in your strakes. I think the dissimilar metals react to each other. Steal will rust though so I'd say just keep it clean and work with what you have. If you're planning on doing a lot of aluminum work and already have an air compressor you might as well get a used 3x aluminum bucking gun and bucking bar with a few clecos and the cleco pliers. You can resell them on cheapbay when you're done for less than a rental fee would be.... I wish I'd done that with a tile saw when I did my shower tiles. You might also get something like this to mark all of your holes at the same spacing. Just some thoughts. I'm no expert and you might already have these tools.
 
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Pusher

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This might end up a good deal actually. It's about $60 worth of used tools.

And the hole spacer is called a "rivet fan spacer".
 
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Thanks for the info. The tools are a bargain.
I wasn't planning on removing the bottom. And the rivets seem tight. Removing the bottom two panels is a lot of work. I plan on vinegar / water scrub with a brush. Then I don't know what after that. Do I need to coat it with something for strength ? As for the sides, they look brand new once the paint comes off. I am not worried about them. Seems like someone removed paint before and repainted, leaving the pitting.
 
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