1963 3 HP Johnson Seahorse----HELP !

barrycc

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Jun 10, 2012
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This looks like the place to get some help !
I'm SO close to getting my 1963 johnson 3HP Seahorse running !
Got new points, plugs, coil & wires; new carb KIT; have cleaned the carb 4, 5 times carefully (!!); the motor now starts but won't stay running.
(and it only starts when I spray WD-40 directly into the carb. Sort of a poor mans quick-start---I was told)
Have since learned not to use this & use fuel mixture with a spray bottle.
I took the plugs out; they we SOAKED---dried them off & it actually ran for about 10 seconds.

Can ANYONE me ANY pointers or direction ?
Would really appreciate it !

Best Regards-

Barry Campbell
Ontario, Canada
 

kfa4303

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6,094
Re: 1963 3 HP Johnson Seahorse----HELP !

HI barry. Welcome to iboats. Sounds like you're very close. The fact that the motor starts and runs for a few seconds is good and means that the compression is probably ok, which is the most important thing. Everything else can be fixed with relative ease. We'll start at the top of the motor with the ignition and work our way down. Here's a great a link that can walk you through and entire ignition rebuild. It sounds like you've got all the parts. Use the link to double check your work. Make sure the the points are perfectly clean and set to .020" using the high spot on the crankshaft cam. Also, be sure that the spark plug wires are 7mm solid copper core (not automotive) and twisted tightly on to the coil posts. If you're using the old spark plug wires, try snipping off about 1/2" from the coil end to expose some fresh copper. Once you've got a nice strong blue spark that can jump 1/4" gap using a $5 gap tester from the auto store on both cylinders, the ignition should be fine.

http://www.marineengine.com/parts/v...ntage-evinrude-johnson/379267/37926700001.htm (complete parts catalog with exploded diagrams for your motor)

http://www.outboard-boat-motor-repa...on 3 HP 1952-1967 Ignition System Tune-up.htm

Now that you've got good strong spark, let's check the carb. I know you've cleaned it many times already, but you may as well check it one more (hopefully final time) to be sure that all is in order. Take special care to remove the welch plugs so that all of the passages can be cleaned. Once your sure it's clean as can be, reassemble the carb taking special care when installing the carb needle packing and while seating the float needle. Here's a link that can walk you through an entire carb rebuild for a motor very similar to yours.

http://www.outboard-boat-motor-repa...hnson 5.5 HP 1954-1964 Carburetor Tune-UP.htm

With the carb clean, check the fuel lines for debris or clogs. Hopefully, at this point you've got spark and good fuel delivery. All that's left is starting here up. For starters, be sure you only use a test tank to run the motor in. These old gems can't be run on muffs as they do not have self-priming waterpumps. Instead, use a bucket with water filled to about 1"-2" below the main exhaust port. Using a bit of premixed fuel to get it started is ok, but you shouldn't have to do it once everything is sorted out. WD-40 is ok, but NEVER use carb cleaner or Starting fluid on these old 2-stokes as it will strip the innards of much needed lubrication. You'll also need to run 24:1 mix (5.5. fl. oz. of 80-90w 2-stoke outboard oil to 1 gallon of 87 octane gas) along with champion J4C spark plugs. Give these suggestions a whirl and let us know what you find.
 

Joe Reeves

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Feb 24, 2002
Messages
13,262
Re: 1963 3 HP Johnson Seahorse----HELP !

(Magneto & Driver Coil Alignment)
(J. Reeves)

To align the coils properly, have the metal vertical portion of the coil yokes aligned with the inside edge of the bevel that exists on the top portion of the aluminum seat upon which the coils sit. This creates the proper distance between the coils and the flywheel magnets. Faulty alignment creats friction and the yokes of the coils heat up, turn blue and expand.

(Point Setting Of Magneto Models)
(J. Reeves)

Set the points as follows. Have the flywheel key aligned with the fiber rubbing portion of the ignition points. Adjust the gap so that a .020 gauge will pass thru but a .022 will not. Should there be any question of the points being dirty (touching the contact with your finger would cause them to be dirty), clean them with a small brush and acetone or lacquer thinner.

NOTE 1: Should the operating cam have a small portion on it with the word "SET" imprinted, align this portion with the fiber rubbing portion instead of the flywheel key.

NOTE 2: Should the cam have the word TOP imbossed on the top of it, that is a cam that could be installed upside down and this is simply telling you which side is up. It is not a position where one would set the points.

Use only a premix mixture from a spray bottle for priming.

(Carburetor Float Setting)
(J. Reeves)

With the carburetor body held upside down, the float being viewed from the side, adjust the float so that the free end of the float (the end opposite the hinge pin) is ever so slightly higher (just ever so slightly off level) than the other end. And when viewed from the end, make sure it is not cocked.

(Carburetor Adjustment - Single S/S Adjustable Needle Valve)
(J. Reeves)

Initial setting is: Slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running.

Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

Note 1: As a final double check setting of the slow speed valve(s), if the engine has more than one carburetor, do not attempt to gradually adjust all of the valves/carburetors at the same time. Do one at a time until you hit the above response (die out or spit back), then go on to the next valve/carburetor. It may be necessary to back out "all" of the slow speed adjustable needle valves 1/8 turn before doing this final adjustment due to the fact that one of the valves might be initially set ever so slightly lean.

Note 2: If the engine should be a three (3) cylinder engine with three (3) carburetors, start the adjustment sequence with the center carburetor.

When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.
 

barrycc

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Jun 10, 2012
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Re: 1963 3 HP Johnson Seahorse----HELP !

Hello---thx for all that great info !
OK---I've made MAJOR progress ! The motor starts & RUNS---but it will ONLY run with the choke out !
Any ides(s) on how I need to tweak the carb ?
Also; it won't run 'fast'. I'm assuming that is because the choke is out ?
Much thx--great forum !
 

nwcove

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May 16, 2011
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6,293
Re: 1963 3 HP Johnson Seahorse----HELP !

just a thought ( from working on a 62 3hp and a 66), but did you remove the filter thats in the tank, and clean it? or of someone else has removed the filter is the tank spotless clean. i put an inline filter on the 66 and after about two tanks of fuel , you can see the crud that the filter caught even after i thought i had the tank spotless.
 

barrycc

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Re: 1963 3 HP Johnson Seahorse----HELP !

OK---great thx for chiming in ! Fuel filter ?!!? That's news to me ! LOL Havta check that out to-morrow.
Would you know....why it will only run with the choke out ?
And of course--with it out--I don't get too many RPM's (fast speed)
Any thoughts ?
Much thx !
 

nwcove

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Re: 1963 3 HP Johnson Seahorse----HELP !

from my experience, only running with the choke out is a sign of fuel starvation, whether is be from not enough fuel getting to the carb ( filter plugged) or fuel is getting to the carb , but the orifices are partially plugged and fuel is not getting to the engine in the right air/fuel mix. when you cleaned the carb the second, third time, did you see any crud in the bowl, or on the wire that you pushed through the passageways?
 

barrycc

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Re: 1963 3 HP Johnson Seahorse----HELP !

Hi again--thx ! Oh i got TONS of crud outa the carb & jets. Pretty sure it's 100% clean.
But NOW my suspicion is the fuel filter ! Where is it ? Inside the friggin' tank ? How does one get it OUT ?
Much thx again !
 

nwcove

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Re: 1963 3 HP Johnson Seahorse----HELP !

if you got tons of crud after the second/third/fourth cleaning, it sounds like someone already removed the filter that was inside the tank, does your motor have the copper line from the tank to the carb?...or a flexible fuel line?
 

barrycc

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Re: 1963 3 HP Johnson Seahorse----HELP !

Thx---flex line--brand new ! (and the fuel just POURS outa it when I disconnect from carb)
 

Joe Reeves

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Messages
13,262
Re: 1963 3 HP Johnson Seahorse----HELP !

The fuel line is connected directly to a filter that screws into the tank.... unscrew it.

Running only when the choke is engaged = fuel supply to carburetor is restricted (filter), OR carburetor high speed jet is restricted (horizontal in bottom center of float chamber), OR thick gasket is missing from carburetor's vertical brass high speed nozzle.
 

barrycc

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Re: 1963 3 HP Johnson Seahorse----HELP !

MUCH thx ! Got a trouble-shoot list !
Will try to-morrow.
Thx again !
 

nwcove

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Re: 1963 3 HP Johnson Seahorse----HELP !

+1 on the thick gasket! forgot about that. i did have an issue with a sierra kit where that gasket was to thin , and had to re-use the old one. but if you find the filter in the tank has been removed ( its right above the fuel shut off) , and you keep getting crud in the carb, you need to get some fuel line and a small in-line filter. you will have to loop it around towards the cyl head though, just to keep from kinking the line
 

barrycc

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Re: 1963 3 HP Johnson Seahorse----HELP !

Hello again !
A little update--thought you might like to know. I'm $60 poorer---and is STILL isn't running right---damn.
Here's what I did---took the carb AND fuel filter to my marina up here---mechanic had a look; said 'No way will varsol clean the carb; you gotta do a 'carb soak' (overnite); he soaked the carb AND fuel filter; looked at everything else---got it back a couple of hrs ago--clean as a WHISTLE---I put NEW packing in too (on the upper HS jet (?)---the brass needle jet); AND got marina fuel.
(they rant on about using car gas--ethonol gums up carbs---according to them. (!)
Put it all back together---gas was streaming out of the fuel hose A-OK---BUT...would only start if I sprayed gas directly into carb--and only runs until the gas I sprayed runs OUT.
Damn....this is frustrating...any (more) feedback is certainly most welcome---thx for all your info thus far !
 

nwcove

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Re: 1963 3 HP Johnson Seahorse----HELP !

you still have a carb issue. as mentioned in above posts, did you remove the welch plug thats on the top of the carb, and replace and reseat the new one? is the thick rubber gasket on the high speed needle passage seating ? ( the float bowl should not mate with the carb without tightening the screws down). did the marina mech, or you run a strand of wire through the passages in the carb? and blow it out..and re do it 5 times?
 

barrycc

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Re: 1963 3 HP Johnson Seahorse----HELP !

Thx---carb prob still---that's what I thought (too) WELCH plug ? Oh man....no. Sigh. Is that the 'round' silver plug in the centre of the carb ? Man---I wondered about that (too). I don't know where I could get one---maybe my marina might have that. Mechanic didn't say anything about that, tho. Yup---marina man blew out and checked ALL parts.
There is a gasket on the HS jet--that's the bottom one--correct ? And the brass needle jet is the LS ? Maybe it's that Welch plug is the prob....thx a ton, friend ! WKYP
 

lindy46

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3,886
Re: 1963 3 HP Johnson Seahorse----HELP !

If you had invested in a carb kit, it would have had the replacement welch plug in it and the gasket which fits over the high speed nozzle. The motor will never idle right without removing the welch plug and cleaning the holes inside. There is no other way to properly clean under there without removing the plug. And the motor will never run right without a proper gasket on the high speed nozzle (which is inside the carb - you have to remove the bowl to get to it.)
 

barrycc

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Re: 1963 3 HP Johnson Seahorse----HELP !

Thx--Yes--I did buy a carb KIT last year; but NOW I'm working on this 'new' (old) carb. Right---the HS nozzle inside the carb has a brand new gasket on it. Mechanic checked over every part.
I think...I've done EVERYTHING--except this freakin' 'Welch plug'. (!!!)
thx--WKYP !
 

barrycc

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Re: 1963 3 HP Johnson Seahorse----HELP !

BTW....what the heck is UNDER the 'welch plug' ? Jeepers---wouldn't a overnite soak in a carb bath clean that OUT ?
thx....
 
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