1961 Glasspar G-3 gets a new Transom...

BobsGlasstream

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Re: 1961 Glasspar G-3 gets a new Transom...

andgott,
one thing I can say about you having two of these things going at one time is it gives me more to read.
Nice work as normal.
Take care
Bob
 

zopperman

Lieutenant Commander
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Jun 22, 2011
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1,551
Re: 1961 Glasspar G-3 gets a new Transom...

Are you going to tab the new transom into the stringers? or make knee braces? or is that overkill?
 

andgott

Master Chief Petty Officer
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Sep 2, 2009
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801
Re: 1961 Glasspar G-3 gets a new Transom...

Are you going to tab the new transom into the stringers? or make knee braces? or is that overkill?
The transom will be tabbed into the hull, then when I replace the stringers, I'll tab them in to the transom.
 

andgott

Master Chief Petty Officer
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Re: 1961 Glasspar G-3 gets a new Transom...

All the wood is in place today... It was raining- HARD, all morning, So It's a good thing that I got it in the garage yesterday.

No pics of the process- But its' the same as the first layer- Spread a generous layer of thickened epoxy, put the wood in place, clamp it all down-

1013TsomIn.jpg


1013Tsomside.jpg


It was good and solid with just the first layer of plywood in- now that there are three, it should be rock solid. Once this all cures, it'll be time for some fiberglass.

-Andrew
 

Brenn

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Jul 10, 2011
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Re: 1961 Glasspar G-3 gets a new Transom...

this is a good thread,nice work so far.
 

r16409

Seaman Apprentice
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Jun 4, 2006
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45
Re: 1961 Glasspar G-3 gets a new Transom...

Great thread!

One question I had. I'm replacing a transom on a Glasspar Tacoma and trying to caluclate how much material.

Did you use an Epoxy Resin and how much did it take to do the lamination of the transom pieces as well the glass work on the inner skin and outer transom? Also how much fiberglass did it take?

Again thank you for this thread -- it is very helpful for others with less experience.
 

andgott

Master Chief Petty Officer
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Re: 1961 Glasspar G-3 gets a new Transom...

Thanks.

The Tacoma has a MUCH larger transom... Probably a lot closer to the transom in the Citation that I restored in this thread-
http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=355668

To give you and idea- I just laid a layer of 1708 down on the inside of the transom last night... It took 24 ounces of epoxy to wet it out completely. Laminating the 3 layers of ply in took around that much as well, but it was thickened by about 50% or so with filler. If I had to guess, I'd say I probably used 1 1/2 - 2 gallons on the transom of the Citation alone.

-Andrew
 

andgott

Master Chief Petty Officer
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Re: 1961 Glasspar G-3 gets a new Transom...

More progress. First, I got the top of the transom cut down to where it needs to be-

1014TsomTrim.jpg



Then, I did the final prep work that needed to be done before putting in the stringers... A bit more cutting and grinding-

1014DeckRdy.jpg


The floor had been cut out prior to it arriving at my shop. I cut it back another 3 inches or so, so that the joint between the new and old plywood was in a better spot. It'll be concealed by the center deck here, rather than being right in the cockpit. I also tapered the old stringers so that I could join them to the new ones.

Then, I cut all the wood for the new stringers. This is the dry fit-

1014DryFit.jpg


The new & old stringers will be joined with Scarf joints, so I tapered them-

1014Scarf.jpg


Then I took all the wood out, and did the last of the glass work on the transom. It's tabbed in to the hull, and the top of it is now glassed as well. This is a weak spot in most glasspars- Where water gets in to the transom to start the rot... That won't happen on this boat!

1014TsomGlassed.jpg


After the final glass work was in place, I installed the stringers-

1014aStringers.jpg


They are 'glued' in place with thickened epoxy. Where appropriate, I used fillets for reinforcement. Once this cures, I'll glass them in to the hull to provide more strength, and to seal them off.

It's starting to come together now...

-Andrew
 

BobsGlasstream

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Re: 1961 Glasspar G-3 gets a new Transom...

Nice work Andrew,
I can tell you have done this a couple time in your life. LOL :p
That old boat will be better then when it was new.
Once again great work.
Bob
 

andgott

Master Chief Petty Officer
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Sep 2, 2009
Messages
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Re: 1961 Glasspar G-3 gets a new Transom...

A busy morning. The stringers are glassed in-

1015Tsom.jpg


There are 2 or 3 layers of cloth everywhere... It's thicker where needed- Transom joints, etc.

Almost time for a floor! Looks like I need to go get some plywood...

I spent MOST of the day doing a workshop cleanup, something I have to do every couple weeks or so when things get too cluttered! I noticed it was especially bad this time, must be the two projects I have going at the same time :) Things are much cleaner now ...


-Andrew
 

andgott

Master Chief Petty Officer
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Re: 1961 Glasspar G-3 gets a new Transom...

The floor is in.

1025FloorIn1.jpg


1025FloorIn2.jpg


I don't have 'in progress' photos, since I had a lot of epoxy on my hands (well, on my gloves)... But it was a pretty normal installation.

First, I cut it to size, And dry fit it to make sure it was correct. Once I had a decent fit, I beveled the edges so the glass cloth will lay over them etter, and so it looks a little better when it's all done. Then, I flipped the floor over, and spread a good thick coat of unthickened epoxy on the bottom. For those who wonder how much resin it takes to do a job like this, the ply is about 43" x 48", and it took 20 ounces of mixed epoxy to coat it well.

Then, I mixed up a big batch of thickened epoxy. It was 30 oz. before adding filler- I added about 4 cups or so of Cabosil to it, until it was good and thick, about the thickness of peanut butter- Still sticky, but thick enough to 'stand' on it's own without sagging. Then, I put it in a big ziplock bag, and cut the corner off. I used it like a pastry bag to squeeze a generous bead of the mix onto the tops of the stringers, probably about 3/8" or so.

Next, I CAREFULLY dropped the floor panel in place. I used stainless screws in a few places to hold the plywood in place. I like to use stainless deck screws- They are smaller in diameter than wood screws, and they don't require predrilling. Also, the shape of the heads allows them to sink below the surface of the wood, so the hole can be sealed off with epoxy. They are fast, and easy.

If there is enough filler material, it should squeeze out of the joints as you tighten the screws down. Once it cures, it'll be STRONG. The screws may add a bit to the strength- But aren't really that important beyond being a method of clamping things together.

Then, I filled the gap between the floor and transom, as well as the gap between the new and existing floor. Before laying the floor, I beveled the edges where they would meet, so I had some room for filler. Once it's sanded, then painted, You'll be hard pressed to see where the old floor ends and the new begins.

Tomorrow, The floor will get a layer of 10 oz. glass cloth on it, then this job is basically done! I'm a little behind schedule, but not too bad...

-Andrew
 

Woodonglass

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Re: 1961 Glasspar G-3 gets a new Transom...

Question, It appears the deck is "Raised" in the back section. What is the reason for this on the G3 design. Is there some interior thing going on or what? Just curious why the deck doesn't extend to the sides of the hull. What keeps water from collecting in these sections and or how would it get to the bilge. I think I'm confused.
 

andgott

Master Chief Petty Officer
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Re: 1961 Glasspar G-3 gets a new Transom...

The floor is raised slightly- Most glasspars of this vintage have a similar design.

There will be a drain plug installed- G3's have TWO transom drains-

1024Stern.jpg


The lower one (left) is in the double bottom, or bilge area, the higher one, on the right, is just above the floor level inside the boat. Originally, the double bottom of these boats was 'sealed', the only access to it was the drain plug. A good idea, in theory- You could puncture the bottom, and not compromise the watertight integrity of the hull. But, there was no access to inspect anything, or any way to rig a bilge pump. Also- It NEVER dried down there, since there was no air flow... Which meant ROT.

-Andrew
 

Woodonglass

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Re: 1961 Glasspar G-3 gets a new Transom...

Yeah, I'd say that was a significant design flaw. Thanks for the explanation.
 

Mike Lammert

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Oct 21, 2011
Messages
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Re: 1961 Glasspar G-3 gets a new Transom...

Andrew-Nice work! I just did a complete interior refurbish on my 93 17' center console...I used epoxy resin on everything, all in all I used about 20 gallons total...I was wondering what brand resin you are using and where you get it? On my project (which took exactly 6 months working on it after work and on weekends) I used Epoxy resin and all of my cloth (biax1708 and 2oz CSM) from fiberglasssite.com.....anyways, nice job again!
 

BobsGlasstream

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Re: 1961 Glasspar G-3 gets a new Transom...

Sounds like it's time to go fishing again. LOL :D
You are making very short work of this project even with the interuptions.
What do you have planned for the interior, classic or something different?
Looking good.
Bob
 

andgott

Master Chief Petty Officer
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Sep 2, 2009
Messages
801
Re: 1961 Glasspar G-3 gets a new Transom...

This boat is largely intact- And will likely have a more or less 'correct' interior. I'm not the owner, though- so I don't make those decisions, I just do the work :)

I am encouraging the owner to make a few mods from 'original'... For example, rather than the old pulley and cable steering, I think that he's going to be better off with a rotary helm. And, While he kind of WANTS an original looking motor, he's not mechanical, so I am encouraging him to use a more modern powerplant.

-Andrew
 

andgott

Master Chief Petty Officer
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Sep 2, 2009
Messages
801
Re: 1961 Glasspar G-3 gets a new Transom...

Time to 'glass the floor....

First, I cut the glass to size-
1026GlasCut.jpg


Then, mixed up a nice big batch of resin... 32 ounces!

And, wet it out-
1026Glassed.jpg


Having the couple of extra minutes of working time in the relatively cool temps (upper 60's) is nice!

Whenever I'm doing a project like this, I try to have other small projects standing by in case I have leftover resin... I started reinforcing the motor well also-

1026MotorWell.jpg


Much less waste that way!

I'm almost done with this phase of the project now. The owner has to make a few decisions about power and other things before I do anything else- Which probably won't be happening anytime soon...

Really, all that is left now is installing the drains, and finishing and fairing the outside of the transom

-Andrew
 
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