1956 Johnson Javelin starter

[F_R]

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[F_R]

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above diagram is for the original 6 volt system. If you are converting to 12V, use this one.

 

[Willyclay]

IMHO you should disconnect all those "new wires" from the motor and do any future testing of the different circuits with a voltmeter or 12V bulb. This will allow you to eliminate the water barrel, throttle issue and inability to shut it down quickly while you troubleshoot the electrical problems. Good luck!

 

[KathyD19]

What the heck are you doing? Here is the correct wiring diagram. Grounding the small terminal on the solenoid makes it crank (if you have the correct solenoid)

F_R is the "what the heck are you doing?" comment for me? Because I am asking myself that all the time and I have no clue. LOL. The diagram you posted is the one I've been referring to all along and is much simpler than the one oldboat just shared. F_R, in your opinion, is the solenoid that oldboat1 linked me to the correct one for my motor? If not please let me know which one is! I've already purchased two solenoids and I don't mind getting a third as long as it's absolutely the correct one.
And Willyclay, thank you for the idea so I can avoid actually starting the motor. I'm thisclose to putting the whole darn thing on Antique Outboards for sale.

 

[F_R]

That was not meant to be offensive. It was my thought as I read through this long saga, and seeing everything seemingly going off in different directions. In other words, I was having trouble understanding it all.

As for the solenoid in the link, it will work (12V application), but it is mounted differently. The diagram I posted gives the OMC and Sierra Marine numbers. Beware, auto parts stores will sell you a Ford Solenoid which looks exactly identical, but is different inside. iboats sells the Sierra one.

 

[KathyD19]

I am really grateful for everyone taking the time to try and help me with this, I sincerely am. I was very happy to get my dads old boat going again and I had five years of fun with it but I think this is beyond my capabilities at this point. I know everyone says the 56 Johnson Javelin is a beast and will work forever but I think it needs a better owner than me. I am throwing in the towel. I'm just going to put it in storage until the Spring and then hopefully find a seller who will give it better care than I am capable of. You all have been wonderful on here though, and I am very thankful.

 

[Willyclay]

Time has a way of changing our attitudes. Wish I was closer to be able to put hands on that old beauty!

 

[KathyD19]

Bill, for all of your help, I would have given it to you. <3

 

[Willyclay]

Had another thought for your consideration. The link below will get you to the iboaters' Location Map thread created by Forum Guru Woodonglass. There are numerous pins in Central IL which may mean some hands-on help is available to you in the short-term. If you are willing, how about attach a pin for your location and let's see if that will get any interest in your situation? Another potential source of help and information is AOMCI. Check their website for a nearby chapter and maybe a forum member can help with them also. I am not ready to give up on you after watching you climb a much bigger hill in 2012. Any takers?

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...air/660251-iboaters-where-are-you-members-map

 

[HighTrim]

Kathy,

Glad to see you back on the forum again. I have not been around much with it being summer up here in the Great White North!

Similar to Frank, I read through every post and also thought, what the heck is going on here!

As he stated, I doubt your issue is with the starter. When they get stuck up in the flywheel like that, it is usually due to a lack of voltage (power) to get the flywheel spinning enough to let it disengage. That does not meant that the starter may not also need maintenance but may not be your issue at hand.

To start, there are auto solenoids, and there are marine solenoids. They look exactly the same, but are very much different. You cannot use an auto solenoid. Verify which one you currently have installed for us.

Next, ensure from Franks wiring diagram that it is indeed wired correct. Use the one for the conversion to 12 volts. Nothing else at this point, pull everything off except what is on the diagram.

Finally, ensure that your battery is fully charged, and load tested. Auto stores do this free. Ensure all your connections are clean/polished and tight. Ensure the wiring is not corroded. It should not CRUNCH when you flex it.

Then, once you have the correct solenoid, all wired correct, with a charged load tested battery, what does it now do?

If you were closer I would come over and help, done it for more than a few Iboaters! A bit of a far drive from Canada though

 

[HighTrim]

Also, read through the posts again, and clicked on pictures.

1. TO remove the starter you are missing 1 more bolt top left of carb looking straight on it from the front of motor. You cannot get to it though unless you pull off the silencer.

2. You have an incorrect solenoid I believe. That is an auto solenoid. I don't know what model you bought, but Im pretty certain it is the root cause of your issues. You need a marine 12 volt solenoid. You wont find one with a button, but don't worry, once it is wired correct, which we can ensure, you wont need it. The marine ones from 1956 are 6 volt solenoids anyways.

 

[KathyD19]

HighTrim, I am giving you a HUGE HUG over the internet (and Canadian border!) I had completely given up and was planning to sell my boat this Spring. WillClay has my email address and just sent me an email that you had responded to my thread. God bless ya, you've given me hope again. Yes, the starter solenoid I was trying to use was an automotive one, a Ford to be exact. But I bought the correct starter solenoid now, as referenced by the part number given in the diagram. It was lost TWICE in shipping to me but when I got it, I wasn't sure how to hook it up because it has four posts (rather than three which the last one had). I asked my electrical engineer friend how to hook it up but he said he'd need to test it to see how it's wired internally so I gave it to him. He hasn't had a chance to look at it in the three weeks he's had it (he's a busy guy). So that's where I stand. I will contact him this weekend and get it back. You've gotten me interested in again and given me hope. Thank you SO much. I will be in contact soon.

 

[HighTrim]

Here is how you wire it up. Don't fret, there is nothing major wrong here, just some wiring to fix up.

 

[KathyD19]

That is the wiring diagram I have but I need some modifications. I do not have a functioning choke solenoid or a mercury safety switch (neither were hooked up when I bought the motor and it had run fine). What I DO have is a push/pull "kill" switch to stop the motor and a push button to start it (independent of the push button that had been on the bottom of the previous solenoid. When I bought the motor, they told me to use the push button to start but said it had been acting up so if that didn't work, then push the button underneath the solenoid. The push button never worked for me so I always started it by using the button under the solenoid). So with four bolt on the correct marine solenoid, how do I wire it for those two features and not the mercury switch or choke solenoid? I'm going to get my new solenoid back from my friend tomorrow and I'll have time to look at the motor again Sunday and Monday so I will be able to take pics. Thank you again for helping me on this, you make it sound like it's going to be ok!

 

[oldboat1]

If using a highly simplified version of High Trim's diagram, I would wire in the push button start switch at number 16. That is, one side of the switch wired to the large post of the solenoid (battery side), and the other side of the switch wired to one of the small posts. Wire the other small solenoid post to the battery ground post.

 

[HighTrim]

Ok if you don't have a mercury switch on your motor, you would simply connect the black wire in the diagram going to it to a ground on the motor rather than the switch. Just beware, that takes away the safety aspect of the switch. It will now let you start it at a high throttle setting.

If you don't have a choke solenoid, simply leave the choke switch, choke, and the wiring going from it completely out. They are not hard to find though. I may have a choke solenoid and a mercury switch you can have. Ill have a look see.

If you have a kill switch, someone added the wiring for it. Your motor did not come from the factory with it. They are easy to wire though, should be 2 black wires coming out from under the mag plate. They simply go to the switch. Then when pushed, it grounds your points, killing the motor.

 

[HighTrim]

This Should Help!

 

[HighTrim]

This Should Help! As Long as your switches, etc... are working. Again, be aware, it will start at any throttle setting like this!

 

[Willyclay]

Good stuff! Thanks, Chris

 

[KathyD19]

I got the solenoid back from my friend late in the day so I'm going to print out your diagram and work on the motor tomorrow! I'm excited! I'm in central Illinois and we've been having a crazy heat wave (96-97 degrees the past few days) but I'll tough it out to see if I can get this old gem going again. Thank you and I'll let you know how it goes!!