1956 Fastwin 15 hp

[asdasc]

Re: 1956 Fastwin 15 hp

yep, drain and fill the lower unit with fresh marine 80/90 lube. Be sure to replace the washers/gaskets under the screws, as they are designed for single use.

If it drains milkshake looking, you have some water in the lower unit, which means you will need to rebuild it. That is a fun 1 day project. If it comes out looking like honey, you are good to go!

 

[MisAdventure]

Re: 1956 Fastwin 15 hp

okay, is this related to the problem I am having at all? How do I do it?

 

[mstahl1171]

Re: 1956 Fastwin 15 hp

Do yourself a favor...since you are removing the flywheel..go ahead and replace the the coils, points, condensors, plug wires and plugs. Points should be gapped at .020 plugs should be .030. You probably have a bad coil but the points could be dirty or out of proper gap. You may also have a bad plug wire...if they are old you should replace them.

I replaced all of the above on my Lark 40hp and wow...super nice hot spark now. Worth every penny. The motor runs super smooth now.

 

[MisAdventure]

Re: 1956 Fastwin 15 hp

What are the torque specs for reinstaling the flywheel once I have it off?

 

[MisAdventure]

Re: 1956 Fastwin 15 hp

what should I buy for cleaning the tapers?

is draining the lower unit something I should be doing now while things are appart?

 

[Chinewalker]

Re: 1956 Fastwin 15 hp

If the coils are the black plastic ones, they are likely okay and your problem is elsewhere in the ignition. Very rarely do coils fail UNLESS they are obviously bad (.ie cracked wide open.) If the points are pitted they will need to be replaced and could easily be causing your spark issue.

 

[MisAdventure]

Re: 1956 Fastwin 15 hp

looking down into the flywheel through the little opening in the top, I can see that one of the points is pitted, the other looks okay. The coils are black plastic and look bran new. However, there are many flakes of green paint inside with the coils and points, that seems like a problem too.

I plan on buying a tester so once the flywheel is off I can test the coils. Ill just plan on changing the points.

 

[MisAdventure]

Re: 1956 Fastwin 15 hp

flywheel off...very gritty inside...lots of junk. One of the coil screws was loose and sticking up. Both coils look new...trying to figure out how to test them. NOt working like on the video...maybe both are dead?

one of the points is gapped right, the other is touching...how do you adjust them?

what do I need to clean every thing?

 

[Chinewalker]

Re: 1956 Fastwin 15 hp

As noted above - if the coils look new, they likely are good. I wouldn't bother testing them until you have good points and condensers.

Gapping the points - align the crankshaft keyway with the cam rider on the set of points you're adjusting. Turn the off-set screw on the point base (outermost screw) to open/close the points accordingly. Gap them at .020". If you have one set of points that is not opening at all, then that is likely your main problem. If the points are pitted, they may work, but new ones will work better.

I usually clean the magneto with carb cleaner or lacquer thinner and blow it out with compressed air.

 

[OptsyEagle]

Re: 1956 Fastwin 15 hp

If the point is not opening, then it is not firing. There's your problem. Good work.

 

[MisAdventure]

Re: 1956 Fastwin 15 hp

could only get one coil....so, changed one. Changed the pitted point and condenser on that side. Going to change points and condenser on other side...have to wait for tomorrow to change the coil on that side.

do I even need the ohm tester that I can not seem to figure out? or should I take it back at this point?

what torque do I need for putting the flywheel back on?

 

[OptsyEagle]

Re: 1956 Fastwin 15 hp

Your flywheel torque should be 480 to 560 in/lbs. I wouldn't bother measuring ohms. If you have already ordered the coils then change them out. I really believe your problem was your points. Change them both, if you can, and gap them properly at 0.020". Not 0.018" or 0.022". Blow out all the dirt, paint, dust or whatever off the flywheel with compressed air and put the flywheel back on. If you have a spark tester, test to see if your system can now jump a 3/8" gap on both plugs. You can do that by just tightening up the flywheel tight so it doesn't come off. It wont as long as you don't start it (keep the actual spark plugs away and out of the cylinders). If you get your spark, you are good to go. Torque down the flywheel to 520 in/lbs, about 43 ft/lbs and then crack a beer.

The lower unit oil thing was a reply to your question of "what else should I do". It has nothing to do with your current problem, but is a good thing to do as regular maintenance.

 

[MisAdventure]

Re: 1956 Fastwin 15 hp

Soon as I get the 2nd coil...ill get it and the point and condenser in. I dont have any compressed air....what is another way to clean it? Can I spray carb cleaner around all those wires and the points? will it hurt any thing? should I just use air..

when I gap the points... the 020 feeler guage should slide in with very little resistance...true? or none?

 

[lindy46]

Re: 1956 Fastwin 15 hp

If you're replacing everything, I'd remove the armature plate (held on by the two long coil bolts and two other shorter bolts) and clean the entire assembly off with carb cleaner. I'd also replace the spark plug wires while I'm in there. Points should just begin to grip the feeler gauge when set properly. Just very slight resistance.

 

[MisAdventure]

Re: 1956 Fastwin 15 hp

The plate you speak of, is that the plate that the coils and condensers are set in?

 

[bktheking]

Re: 1956 Fastwin 15 hp

Do the wires as Lindy said and as I said a few posts ago. I don't know how many wires I replaced this summer, over 20ft worth I'm sure due to breaks in the wire and bad ends in the plug boots. They rust over time, the ends, and can lead to poor connections. Yes that is the plate he is talking about.

 

[MisAdventure]

Re: 1956 Fastwin 15 hp

thanks for the help on this every one. Today is the big day, should get my second coil in. Ill pick up plug wires while im out.
still not getting any spark on one plug...must have changed the side that was already working....oh well....all new parts cant be bad....looking forward to getting it all put back together...
coil, points, condenser on the second side and plug wires all around....today will be fun...

 

[OptsyEagle]

Re: 1956 Fastwin 15 hp

still not getting any spark on one plug...must have changed the side that was already working....oh well....all new parts cant be bad....looking forward to getting it all put back together...
coil, points, condenser on the second side and plug wires all around....today will be fun...

I am not sure how you are currently testing for spark but unless you put the flywheel back on and pulled hard on the starter cord, you are not going to get spark from anything, good parts or bad. To get spark, you first have to have the flywheel on, since it is the magnets in the flywheel that allows the production of the electicity for a spark and secondly you need to have a minimum RPM, I think it might be around 300 RPM to generate enough voltage to jump even the gap of a spark plug. This cannot be done by simply hand rotating the flywheel.

Perhaps you already knew this, but I just want to make sure so that your future tests go properly.

 

[MisAdventure]

Re: 1956 Fastwin 15 hp

thanks for looking out. Yep, I put the flywheel back on...put the pull start assembly back on. Could be I am not pulling it hard enough. It makes me a bit nervous with it on my home made stand..may try setting it back on the boat to pull start test. I did not tighten the flywheel very tight because I need to take it all back apart to put the new parts on when they come in. Did not get them today as expected. Hope to get them tomorrow. May pull the plate off tonight so I can change spark plug wires...

 

[lindy46]

Re: 1956 Fastwin 15 hp

Leave the recoil starter off and use an electric drill with a socket on to turn the flywheel nut. That will turn it plenty fast to see spark.