1953 3hp johnson jw-10 need help,please!!!

[2nd cook]

this motor was given to me by the original owner.used it as it was for about 10 years.about 50 hours total. at the end of each fishing season ran the gas from the carb and emptied the gas tank.may be I did something right, at that time I didn't know anything about fishing motors,never owned one! then the motor leaked badly and I took it apart.got a carb kit,replaced coils,points,condensor and plugs, all oem parts. drained lower unit,no metal shavings on drain screw,

 

[jbuote]

Not an expert here, but I'm a bit unclear as to what the issue is..
What is it doing/not doing that you're asking for help with exactly?

 

[mla2ofus]

I read everything that's been done to it but didn't read what the problem(s) is(are).
Mike

 

[2nd cook]

filled it with 80/90 gear oil and replaced crush washer.have a few problems,though. motor starts ok when cold and runs nicely but I can't idle it down to trolling speed. tried every thing. another thing,when motor is warm have a hard time restarting it if I shut it off for an hour or so and did not close the shutoff valve.have to pull starter 8 -10 times and then gas drips from carb.in my 67 service manual it says float should be parallel and flush with face of casting but mine is about 1/16 higher can't adjust it any better. is that the reason for my carb flooding? any help is greatly appreciated. than

 

[2nd cook]

continue reading post # 4 I ran out of space above,more questions are coming thank you

 

[Crosbyman]

how clean did you clean the carb ...did you inspect under the dime size plug on top....essential for idling properly.... did you blow dry the carb passages etc...


​is compression ok... did you measure it ??

​try a blow test on the reassembled carb ...blow air in the fuel inlet when right side up and no air goes in when the carb is flipped up side down otherwise
​if air goes in .... the fuel inlet needle is not seating ...and sealing properly .

carbs work like your toilet bowl valves they must shut off when full


http://www.outboard-boat-motor-repa...Johnson 3 HP 1952-1967 Carburetor Tune-UP.htm

http://www.maxrules.com/fixtuneitup.html

http://www.outboard-boat-motor-repa...on 3 HP 1952-1967 Ignition System Tune-up.htm

 

[Chinewalker]

If nothing has been done to it in its 65 years, I'd say the coils are likely shot. If they're original, they WILL be shot. Pop the cover off the top of the flywheel and take a look see.

 

[Joe Reeves]

(Carburetor Adjustments - Two Adjustable N/Vs)
(J. Reeves)

Initial settings are: Bottom high speed = seat gently, then open 1 turn out. Top slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Setting the high and low needle valves properly:

NOTE: For engines that DO NOT have a shift selection, obviously there is no NEUTRAL position. Simply lower the rpms to the lowest setting to obtain the low speed needle valve adjustment.

(High Speed) Start engine (it will run pretty rough), shift into forward gear, take up to full throttle. In segments of 1/8 turn, waiting for the engine to respond between turns, start turning in the bottom high speed needle valve. You'll reach a point whereas the engine will either start to die out or spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the needle valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest setting.

(Low Speed) Slow the engine down to where it just stays running. Shift into neutral. Again in segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the top needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running. Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back. Again, at that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

When you have finished the above adjustments, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.`
********************
Carburetor Float Setting)
(J. Reeves)

With the carburetor body held upside down, the float being viewed from the side, adjust the float so that the free end of the float (the end opposite the hinge pin) is ever so slightly higher (just ever so slightly off level) than the other end. And when viewed from the end, make sure it is not cocked.

 

[Crosbyman]

No Title

carbs and coils do go bad :facepalm:

 

[2nd cook]

hi e alveryone! thank you all for responding!! cleaned the carb twice including under the core plug,changed every thing also changed coils ,motor runs nice but somewhat fast,can't get it to idle ,if I move the lever only an 1/8" more to the left it dies in 20sec.what about the bottom of the float being 1/16 above the casting.could that cause the flooding when motor is wa

 

[Crosbyman]

did you check compression (please provide readings) and the tank filter (inside) above the fuel valve

did you do the blow test on the carb ??

​there should be enough gas in the bowl to run longer than 20 seconds at idle !


with the core plug out did you see carb cleaner blowing in the chamber if injected in the the low speed needle passage

are the 3 small holes cleaned out in the top low speed drip chamber
are the 2 vent holes hidden in the fuel cap cleared of crud... try running with the fuel cap off.... they must be clear to allow air to get inside the tank

​make certain the side fuel channel is clear and the proprer gasket is not obstructing the gas from flowing UP to the low speed circuit

any body cracks in the carb ?


see this book around page 100 for jw carb adjustments incl carb control arm and pics

http://boatinfo.no/lib/johnson/manuals/1922-1964johnson.html#/0

 

[oldboat1]

^^^good advice.

My '57s run low and slow with a rich fuel ratio, and a lean air mix. Make sure it's pumping water (some water spitting from the small holes on the leg.) If tuning in a barrel, need the water about half way up the leg. The fuel ratio should be 24:1, or even a little richer. Plugs are J4s, gapped at .030. If the magneto is in good shape, you should see at least a 1/4 inch sharp spark measured with an adjustable open air tester.

I would try to dial it in again, following the instructions Joe Reeves posts. Set the lower needle a turn out, maybe a little less. Start the upper at 1 1/2, and fire it up. Let it idle whereever it runs smoothest. After warmup, adjust the top needle clockwise (leaner) a little at a time. When the engine speeds up, throttle it down and continue needle adjustments. I often find the adjustment a little counterintuitive -- seems like a richer setting is needed, when actually leaning it out gives you the best running.

 

[2nd cook]

thanks everybody!! compression is 63.did not do blow test,let carb dry unassembled 2days,no cracks in body ,good spark,water comes out of peeholes andunder screw on side plate put in new filter in tank,i use j6c plugs .will try adjusting low speed needle again thank you all.

 

[Crosbyman]

I think 63 is starting to be on the low side of things I am no expert in rings... but maybe they need to be losened up with a good decarb

have you ever opened the cylinder heard to peek in and inspect cyl walls (last resort) or tried with a small camera to peek inside

 

[2nd cook]

hi,crosbyman!! never looked inside the head,but motor starts easy, how do you go about decarbing it, I have no idea.would that raise compression?don't want to screw it up.1 more question,filter I took from this motor looks almost new,bright silvery gray.could I use it again,and how would I reattach it to the connector?? you see, I've got lots of questions. thank you

 

[Crosbyman]

decarb is a canned product like Mercury Powertune it loosens thing up and rids of heavy carbon deposits which can interfere with the job the rings need to do (seal) just follow the instructions on the can

filter wise.. blow dry it after a good clean. if you dont have a compressor buy a air can at the Dollar store (keyboad air cleaner)

​the filter I am talking about is inside the fuel tank above the fuel shut of valve which you must unscrew to inspect anyway

 

[2nd cook]

hello,crsbyman!! understood about decarb.how do you clean the filter? looks like new.i have filter in 1 hand and connector in other hand,how do I connect the 2?question about float.bottom of mine is 1/16" above top of casting, is that ok? in my 67 manual it says bottom of float should be even with top of casting.i'm confused, I just don't know. please set me straight,if you know,does it make a difference? thank you

 

[Crosbyman]

the filter I am referring to in on top of the fuel valve which you must unscrew..... open the valve and backflush the filter with carb cleaner and blow it dry

​upside down the float must be parallel to the casing .. i would not worry to much about being even with the carb body... just parallel should be fine

there is lots of documentation on this ,

do a blow test. upside down no air should enter he carb body if the inlet needle is doing its job

http://www.outboard-boat-motor-repair.com/Evinrude 3 HP Lightwin Outboard Boat M otor/Evinrude%20Johnson%203%20HP%201952-1967%20Carburetor%20Tune-UP.htm


​ make sure you install that fat (boss) washer on the high speed post

https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=utube+jw+carb+adjustemnt&&view=de tail&mid=5015A76112BF7974DD485015A76112BF7974D D48&&FORM=VDRVRV​

 

[2nd cook]

THANK YOU,CROSBYMAN!!! WILL DEFENITELY DO THE BLOW TEST,NEXT TIME,BUT HOW DO I RE-ATTACH THE FILTER TO THE CONNECTOR WICH SCREWS INTO THE TANK? CRAZY GLUE OR PERHAPS EPOXY? EVERYTHING ELSE IS CLEAR THIS MOTOR DIES WITHIN 30 SEC WHEN I CLOSE THE SHUTOFF VALVE, ANOTHER MOTOR OF MINE TAKES ABOUT 2 1/2 MINS. I'LL GET THERE EVENTUALLY. THANK YOU AGAIN. IN THE MEANTIME I TAKE THE MOTOR FISHING BUT I'LL TAKE ALL MY TOOLS ALONG, I'M 300 MILES FROM HOME

 

[lindy46]

So the filter is not connected to the connector? I believe it was originally soldered to the connector, which in turn screws into the fuel shut-off valve.