1925 Remington model 12 refurb

[tphoyt]

I need some help making a decision
I’m going to clean up my grandfather’s Remington model 12 from 1925.
It’s still in working order but has some surface rust and needs a serious cleaning. I’m not a gunsmith but I’m confident I can break it down clean every last part and get it back together.
My problem is the finish. Should I leave it all original or go all out and blue the steel?
Then there is the wood. It’s not in terrible condition and will likely cleanup pretty good without removing the finish. Should I go all in or leave it alone? I’m really torn on how to go about this. I’m not personally concerned about it looking new again but I don’t want to be that guy that ruined a perfectly good antique fire arm either by going to far.
Any and all tips are welcome.
Thx

 

[matt167]

I wouldn’t re blue it. Use a real copper kitchen scrubber ( make sure it’s copper ) and Baristol ( I cannot spell it ) that will clean the rust and if it’s not bad you almost wouldn’t tell.


I brought a 1936 Carcano back from questionable condition that way. milsurp rifles loose value if refurbished. Yours isn’t a milsurp but I wouldn’t unless it was trash anyway

 

[Scott Danforth]

I prefer simply cleaning them

 

[aspeck]

I would just clean ... and DO NOT use rust remover because that will react to the finish. Using a real copper scrubber (not copper clad) will work great on the rust and shine it up nicely without removing the finish that is there. If some rust is stubborn, use the edge of a copper penny (not a copper clad which they went to in 1982 ... so use an '81 or older penny). Then use a light coating of gun oil on the metal parts. Do not put oil on the wood ... use a good wood wax for that. Oil on the wood will soak in and stain the wood.

 

[tphoyt]

Thanks for the feed back.
I played around with it but last night and it looks like I’m going to end up blueing it. I’m thinking it may have been cold blued at some point as the finish is coming off very easily. Just a light buff with copper wool to remove the surface rust and I was into bare steel in a split second.
As for the wood I’m just going to hit it with 1000 grit and a hard wax.

 

[alldodge]

Nice rifle, got a pic?

 

[tphoyt]

It’s not a great pic but it’s all I have and its all apart now.

 

[alldodge]

Should clean up nice

I have a G-Dad's Winchester model 62 pump and have only shot it a couple times. Dad also had a Steven's falling block 22 with octagon barrel but don't know what happened to it

 

[matt167]

I use ballistol oil with the copper to cut the rust. It’s the stuff in a green spray can

 

[tphoyt]

Ah the missing gun. I know how that goes.
My mother had 22 lever action that my grandfather had custom made for her and it went missing. I always suspected my Nephew pawned it. He was a real A-Hole in his teens.
All I remember about it was it had a beautiful beach wood stock.

 

[Bob_VT]

Nice 22 rifle and they are valuable to collectors. I am a Certified Cerakote applicator but, with that rifle - get it re-blued the right way. FORGET using cold blue but look local to see if there are any people that do bluing. Now there is a company in NY https://www.turnbullrestoration.com/ that does VERY HIGH END work for high end prices too. You might find a lesser cost gunsmith who still does bluing.

The other option is to clean the heck out of it and leave it original. That will help retain the value.

The longer barrel ones are worth more

 

[cyclops222]

I always remove ALL wood and plastic pieces from the weapon. 2 reasons.
Prevent steel cleaners and finishes from staining the wood.
Prevent wood cleaners, sanding spots, and refinishing from attacking or spotting the metal.

 

[tphoyt]

All freshened up and ready to go another 100 years. I ran a few rounds through it and and it’s still working like a charm. It’s a really nice shooter. I hope Gramps is looking down on me and is happy to see it’s still going strong.

 

[tphoyt]

I forgot the pic

 

[alldodge]

Looks great

 

[aspeck]

Sweet!