1150 Link & Sync Question

[jakec]

Ha ha yes true. Well I don't know how this relates to my original question anyways.

 

[racerone]

This started in MAY this year.----What is the concern today ???

 

[jakec]

When I originally started the thread there was two posters Jim and chris who gave me a lot of advise on the transom spray I was getting. I'm just posting an update and maybe they will reply.

My main questions today are 1. do I need to extend top of transom and 2. should I stick to 115 hp or go higher.

 

[jimmbo]

Newer Motors have height adjustment built into the Bracket that your old inline didn't have. However a Jack Plate can also be used.
As for more power, 4 strokes to tend to be lacking in Torque compared to 2 strokes of the same HP rating(might be why there are so many 'will 150hp be enough to pull a Skier?' questions), so you will probably be underwhelmed by a 4 stroke 115.
Once you have Cleaned up the Transom/Bottom edge, you will probably gain at least a couple of mph, and a second or two better Hole Shot. Hopefully you strengthened the Transom Attachment when you replaced the Transom, enabling it to bear the extra Tonnage of a 4 Stroke.

 

[jakec]

One reason I was interested in the 115 is because it is very light weight. The the yamaha f115 only weighs 385, whereas the f150 weighs 485! Do you really think I'd be disappointed with a 115? I don't even plan to carry a skier, I only want to cruise at a reasonable speed (30mph is plenty). Here is an in progress photo of the transom construction. I think I should be ok to carry a modest 4 stroke engine.

 

[jakec]

BTW if you are interested at all, here are the build photos.

Imgur

 

[jimmbo]

I can't answer if you would be disappointed with a new 115. I know I certainly would be.
As for the transom, I would be putting a bit more Glass, with a Larger Overlap, along any Interface. I have seen many repairs done where the transom was cut out like yours, new wood installed and a narrow strip of chopped mat across any interface/corner, waiting to fail.
On yours, I would use a heavy Roving where the Transom and Sides of the boat meet, with a 6 in overlap, than another layer, being one large going at least a 1 1/2 feet forward of the transom, covering the entire Transom with that Roving(notched for the Stringers), and going along the other side. Finally, another Layer between the Stringers and Transom, but longer. Might be a bit Overkill but...

 

[jakec]

More is always better. I was advised by a professional restorer on what types of fabric to use and what width, number of layers, etc. It is 17oz stitched 45* bias cloth, 2 layers in all places. Held down with west system epoxy. In any case, it's too late to change it now! Ha.

One reason i'm not worried about high top speeds is due to the conditions here often being choppy or worse, where speed has to be limited anyways. As long as I wouldn't be going slower than before, I would be happy. I am very cognizant of the 100 lbs weight savings with the 115.. I didn't realize that when I asked the initial question.

Do you see a problem with leaving the transom height as is and letting the new transom overrun by an inch or so (as opposed to resting directly on the top of the transom)?

 

[jimmbo]

The thru transom Bolts are what will be holding the Engine on, So if there is a gap of an inch or two between the Transom Bracket and top of the Transom no big Deal. Most Outboards are mounted off the top of the Transom these days. If the top Bolt Holes are very close to the Top of the Transom, glassing on a 1X2 or 2X2, isn't going to add any strength, and puts the motor at risk of falling off. If need be, a Jack Plate, or a 'Gil Bracket' can be used which provides the ability raise the engine even higher. However, the transom needs to be very strong.

 

[jimmbo]

More is always better.

Enough is good, More is better, and Too Much is just Right

 

[jakec]

I see, I had the same thought, that since the newly added material wouldn't be attached to the 4-5 layers of cloth on the exterior of the transom, it's actual contribution to the structure would be minimal. Looking at the yamaha mounting It looks like I could use one of the middle holes, or even the bottom holes if needed.

 

[jimmbo]

The Bolt Pattern on that Yammy, is the Pattern that OMC brought out in 1960, and has been used by most Outboard Makers since the late 70s, Mercury finally starting using it in 1984 in their I6s and 66.6 4 inline, and in 85 on the V6s

 

[Chris1956]

The bolt holes on your Mercury are quite different than the standard. Your Merc uses six 3/8" bolts and two thumb screws. The newer pattern is four 1/2" bolts. So fill and drill.

Why are you worried about engine weight? Your transom and boat look able to carry a 500# motor. A Merc 150HPV6 would work pretty good on that hull, as it has better low end power than your 1150. It will likely burn more fuel than the 1150, if it is 2 cycle.

Mercury made a 4 cylinder 115HP motor. It should be pretty light I would guess.

 

[jakec]

Just wanted to update anyone still interested in this saga. I ended up filling the holes in the transom from the old outboard and fixing the problem with the radius at the bottom. Then I did a bunch of shopping around and settled on a Suzuki 115. I will be posting in the propping forum shortly, as I'm thinking I may need to change what I have now. Here's a pic: