1060 Evinrude fisherman 5.5hp

[Crosbyman]

see docs
and good luck you are not a lucky man I and others have ordered tons of those pumps and they are... normally bolted (2) together..

I always touch the spring ends with crazy glue to sit them on their respective nipples and to hold the mushrooms in place while I stack the parts together. line up the bump on the edge

the orientation of the check valves is mind boggling at first till your brain settles in . whatever you do the end result is air flowing IN to OUT but never OUT to IN

no offense ... read 2 times and ... one more time before you start

Rebuilding the OMC Fuel Pump

 

[puffitu]

Yeah I’ll need a beer and a nap after this one-thanks cap

 

[Crosbyman]

with cheap pumps ... some do not rebuild... they repurchase.

 

[puffitu]

Or return as not functional; decided the original pump on the motor is just fine-fired her up again and all is just fine and good enough. Don’t fix if it ain’t broke!

 

[racerone]

These PRESSURE operated pumps are very reliable.----Many are replaced needlessly because trouble shooting seems to be a big mystery.

 

[puffitu]

Thanks to all who advised on this one; she is purring as the day she was created-couldn’t have done it without everyone’s input-or i would still be googling aimlessly and drinking aimlessly. Now at least I have a valid celebratory reason-on to the next one…project that is. Cheers!

 

[Crosbyman]

those are great motors ! just it feed it oil...and gas

thanks for feedback

 

[puffitu]

Ok…so after doing some fine tuning in a water bin today I ran into another issue. Keep in mind I changed lower unit fluid so totally fresh( one of the first things i did), it was becoming noticeably harder to pull the starter chord after I tested the shifter forward and reverse etc. kept dying under load then REALLY became hard to pull and start. Took it back inside and decided to drain oil to see if I can see shavings and whatever else. The brand new oil became thick mud to my surprise. Would it be in the clutch dog box which I cannot for the life in me unscrew the 6 screws and/or seals are I order? Cheers

 

[racerone]

Might be an issue with the shock absorber / slip clutch assembly.

 

[puffitu]

It goes into gear fine the dies shortly after either forward or reverse. The thing ran great but as I said I didn’t test in gear till today

 

[racerone]

Might be an issue with the shock absorber / slip clutch.----Even if you have never heard of that assembly under the water pump.----In my opinion these 60 year old motors need complete inspection / evaluation before roaring away from the dock.

 

[Crosbyman]

see pics & description fyi sorry bad file name .... shock absorber !


they need to be a very very specific length ... if broken some just weld them to the proper size then install a shear pin instead of a drive pin on the prop shaft.


to remove the 6 GC screws I use a 1/4 impact driven and it works wonders but don't overdo it
apply a realease agent and let soak a few hours/days if they really don't want to come out

 

[oldboat1]

Maybe the gearcase was not fully drained, giving you black oil soon after filling with clean. The diesel cars I drove for years had this feature -- not an issue of incomplete draining, but just soot in diesel engines.

You might try filling the case with some inexpensive transmission oil to clean it out, then refill with appropriate gearcase oil. If mine, I would run it at idle for a short time, shifting in and out of gear a few times, then thoroughly drain it.

 

[puffitu]

Thanks guys.
Racerone I ended up taking the thing apart again to dig into the lower unit and got the motor off to disengage for the lower to drop. That said I hand turned the flywheel and seemed like somethings holding it from spinning (no plugs). Oil seal had shifted so I cleaned everything and put back together (new gear oil)and it seems it’s still hard to turn. It shifts beautifully but when in neautral it seems it’s in gear.

 

[puffitu]

I am almost 100% convinced the issue is up top. Now I did not decarbon the engine and tops of pistons were caked when I removed the head cover-gave them a good cleaning but who knows what’s actually going on within the crank case. Could it be a bunch of crap loosened up now that I’ve got the thing buzzing again probably after 20 yrs

 

[oldboat1]

...but my reference to diesel engine soot is misleading. If your gearcase oil is getting fouled, the source could be from a past leak that allowed dirty nasties from the leg to enter. The source could also be from a current leak.

Don't recall whether you pressure and vacuum tested the gearcase, but should do that.

 

[puffitu]

Just to update I just took the crank case off again and verified that the issue lies in the lower unit not the case. So tmrw I’ll try to tear into the lower gear case. Today I got as far as inspecting the shock absorber but it looked fine but that’s as far as I got-

 

[puffitu]

Would be ok to use some heat to break those 6 bolts on the lower? I ordered a seal kit…?

 

[oldboat1]

You are assuming that there is a leak, but you really need to be pressure testing first to confirm the presence of a leak, and -- importantly -- to find out where it is. This is a DIY job if you have a bicycle pump, a spray bottle and some dishwasher liquid.

 

[racerone]

Maybe the coils are rubbing on the flywheel.----Coils need to be set / adjusted properly.----Factory has a special tool for that.----Visit ----leroysramblings-----For all you need to know on that simple magneto.