100:1 or 50:1?

flyingscott

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Sorry didn't see Amsoil reference.

From what I was told, from some top notch marine mechanics, was the tolerances and specifications of the motors needed to be designed for the mix ratio of oils. In the years that Omc made the recommendations of using 100 to 1 those tolerances weren't done, thus ruining many motors. If you trolled all day it was fine but if you ran the wide open a lot....poof. Of coarse back then oil technology wasn't like now so I think everyone's opinion on this one is correct.
Well you and Racer can both be wrong on this one. A little more knowledge on your part would go a long way. Those motors failed after long term storage not while they were running. That is no secret. As fars as oil technology goes McCulloch was running 100-1 on their oil back in 1964.
 

kbait

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I see folks that have followed that 100/1 sticker ratio since new w/o problems. I tell ‘em all to run 50/1 per OMC’s reconsidered recommendation. 100/1 is likely very close to under-oiling at WOT, and not enough oil left on cylinder walls for all winter storage scenarios.. My .02
 

saltchuckmatt

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Well you and Racer can both be wrong on this one. A little more knowledge on your part would go a long way. Those motors failed after long term storage not while they were running. That is no secret. As fars as oil technology goes McCulloch was running 100-1 on their oil back in 1964.
Well also from what I was told, it all changed when Yamaha entered the market and omc had to react. I was told Yamaha was the first to silver solder their main bearings and changed all their tolerances. Most at the time would preach that the Japanese never invented anything, they were just better at perfecting it. I don't have the true knowledge of dissecting everything and forming my own decision, I just know what I was told.

I guess when I look back, I was told there was a Santa Claus so maybe your right!

To say one is right and one is wrong in this case....tough to prove but I'll give you your due justice.
 
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Knotstrait

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Well also from what I was told, it all changed when Yamaha entered the market and omc had to react. I was told Yamaha was the first to silver solder their main bearings and changed all their tolerances. Most at the time would preach that the Japanese never invented anything, they were just better at perfecting it. I don't have the true knowledge of dissecting everything and forming my own decision, I just know what I was told.

I guess when I look back, I was told there was a Santa Claus so maybe your right!

To say one is right and one is wrong in this case....tough to prove but I'll give you your due justice.
I have a Yamaha 8hp, it runs on 100:1, many years, no problem with it!
 

Knotstrait

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Most likely you didn't kill it running 100 to 1 for that short of time and at low speed but maybe someone before you if they ran it at WOT for any length of time. What knob by the way? 68 is not good so you may want to retest with another tester. Not sure why it's running at home and not while your away.
What if it is 68 of compression on both cylinder? what should I do?
 

flyingscott

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I see folks that have followed that 100/1 sticker ratio since new w/o problems. I tell ‘em all to run 50/1 per OMC’s reconsidered recommendation. 100/1 is likely very close to under-oiling at WOT, and not enough oil left on cylinder walls for all winter storage scenario

What if it is 68 of compression on both cylinder? what should I do?
Run it.
 

flyingscott

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Well also from what I was told, it all changed when Yamaha entered the market and omc had to react. I was told Yamaha was the first to silver solder their main bearings and changed all their tolerances. Most at the time would preach that the Japanese never invented anything, they were just better at perfecting it. I don't have the true knowledge of dissecting everything and forming my own decision, I just know what I was told.

I guess when I look back, I was told there was a Santa Claus so maybe your right!

To say one is right and one is wrong in this case....tough to prove but I'll give you your due justice.
My McCullochs were running 100-1 on factory oil in 1964. No special bearings then. It was just good quality factory oil and never had a problem. So yes easy to prove me being right. My McCulloch was rated 75 hp at 5600 rpm.
 

saltchuckmatt

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The problem is, it won’t start😣😣
68 is really low so probably your problem. Did you ever check with a different tester? Also, your engine won't start/run with the missing primer plunger (knob) unless you plug the rubber tubes going to it or pinch them off somehow. Now without the primer it will be even harder to start...so what I would do, and I'll surely catch hell for this, is use a tiny bit of starting fluid. Don't keep it running with it just see if it gives enough to get it going. At this point I'm not sure you have to much to loose.
 

saltchuckmatt

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My McCullochs were running 100-1 on factory oil in 1964. No special bearings then. It was just good quality factory oil and never had a problem. So yes easy to prove me being right. My McCulloch was rated 75 hp at 5600 rpm.
Found this article about Mr McCullochs life and what he created. Definitely proves what Flyingscott was referring to. Found it interesting learning about the history of him and everything he made....including his own oil. Not sure fixing the bridge was his best move.

If you have some time, check it out

 

flyingscott

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Check for spark. Maybe have the low speed screw set to lean? Using the primer choke? Using the throttle?? Compression test done pulling briskly 5 times for each cylinder.
 
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saltchuckmatt

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Check for spark. Maybe have the low speed screw set to lean? Using the primer choke?
Scott, you would have to re-read the very long post (and he has two posts for the same motor and issue)and look at what he's done. Sometimes he could start his motor at home but not the marina. He didn't know what a primer was and pulled the plunger completely out and lost it. To top of off, pretty low compression.

By the way, did you know that stuff about Mr McCullochs? The fuel injected 120 radial outboatd engine....what a visionary!
 

Knotstrait

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Check for spark. Maybe have the low speed screw set to lean? Using the primer choke? Using the throttle?? Compression test done pulling briskly 5 times for each cylinder.
43B607B5-AB95-4CD0-A3A8-4429CADC0DFB.pngis the #33 low speed screw? Or #15? how do I adjust it right? I had it turned tight😅😅😅
compression test I did it 9 pulls
 

tphoyt

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Personally I would start with another compression test. Keep pulling until the needle stops rising. If you did it that way maybe try another gauge. If it turned out to be ok. Repair the primer and start moving forward from there.
 

Lou C

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If all you did was run it with the 100:1 at idle I doubt that caused any damage whatsoever….variable ratio oilers in some outboards did basically the same thing…
 

Knotstrait

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15 probably needs to be about 3 turns out from lightly seated.
Thank you, I did that, still wouldn’t start, I did spark test, it has electric, I bought the starting fluid to try, it still dead, I can’t find another test kit for the compression test today, may be have to ask my friends!
Should I take apart the carb again? When I pull the rope it’s dead sound, no deep low boiling sound,.
The part I really don’t understand was, I had it started in 2 pulls after this engine sits for many years, also I took apart the carb sits there for 2 years, finally I got it put together, surprisingly it started in 2nd pull!!! I was so happy, after 3 hours I took it to the marina it wouldn’t start, dead!
Would that be sitting on the arm side when transported?
I am the 2nd owner of this baby, previous owner was a 80 year old gentleman, the motor stay in garage most of its life, it looks really new/clean in and out, I really like it! But I am so frustrated, may be i should sell it as a parts motor, how much do you think I can sell it for?
 

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saltchuckmatt

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Thank you, I did that, still wouldn’t start, I did spark test, it has electric, I bought the starting fluid to try, it still dead, I can’t find another test kit for the compression test today, may be have to ask my friends!
Should I take apart the carb again? When I pull the rope it’s dead sound, no deep low boiling sound,.
The part I really don’t understand was, I had it started in 2 pulls after this engine sits for many years, also I took apart the carb sits there for 2 years, finally I got it put together, surprisingly it started in 2nd pull!!! I was so happy, after 3 hours I took it to the marina it wouldn’t start, dead!
Would that be sitting on the arm side when transported?
I am the 2nd owner of this baby, previous owner was a 80 year old gentleman, the motor stay in garage most of its life, it looks really new/clean in and out, I really like it! But I am so frustrated, may be i should sell it as a parts motor, how much do you think I can sell it for?
That's a lot of questions. When transporting, you can set it anyway you want. Take a picture of the front and the id tag and post.
 

Knotstrait

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That's a lot of questions. When transporting, you can set it anyway you want. Take a picture of the front and the id tag and post.
Here are the pictures
 

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saltchuckmatt

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Here are the pictures
Not that it matters but that is an 1988 not a 1989. Your knob is still missing, did you plug all the lines coming and going from the primer? Those were excellent running motors but if you have bad compression or bad spark or fuel issues it's not going to run.
 
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