‘73 Bee Craft

[GSPLures]

Ok. I’ll check it out.

New tank?

The first picture you posted where the floor has a square cut out. The cut looks like it was where the gas tank is sitting and looking closer at the front of the cut looks like the blade ran across the top of the tank. Even if the blade just gouged it I would replace it. It looks to be a plastic tank which expands and contracts so a gouge would be a weak spot that will eventually crack. If the blade did miss the tank then disregard. I would still check the tank real good since it is under the floor. It would be unfortunate to have to rip into a brand new floor because the tank gave out.

 

[‘73BeeCraft]

Ok so I’m tackling the stringers this weekend. Tab in with CMS, then 1708 then CMS, and 1708 cap?!?!?
Is the foam spacers between the hull and stringer a real thing. It seldom gets mentioned?!?!

 

[GSPLures]

No need for CSM in between 1708 it already has a CSM backing. Only if you are using regular 17oz.(if using epoxy no need for CSM) Yes you don't want the stringer creating hard spots. What I did was used tile spacers under the stringer then used a pastry bag to inject thickened resin underneath the stringer pulling out the spacers as I went and then the extra resin I created a filet for my tabbing

 

[‘73BeeCraft]

So if I bedded the stringer in PB would that be good enough?

 

[GSPLures]

Yeah, basically you want to make sure that there is not a point contact on the hull. If you bed in PB you have consistent contact throughout the entire stringer

 

[‘73BeeCraft]

Yeah, basically you want to make sure that there is not a point contact on the hull. If you bed in PB you have consistent contact throughout the entire stringer

So I can bed without foam?

 

[GSPLures]

If you are talking about a foam strip under the stringer that is just an alternative way to bed a stringer. If you put PB under the stringer a foam strip is not necessary. The goal is to make sure the stringer is not creating hard spots on the hull.

 

[todhunter]

So I can bed without foam?

This was a confusing concept to me too when I started - I think people explain it wrong, but I'm a newbie, so what do I know. I think the point is, you don't want a hard contacting spot (raw stringer, PB, whatever) immediately next to an unsupported spot (air gap) underneath the stringer. The PB is just as hard as the stringer, so saying that you don't want hard contact with the hull doesn't make sense. It would be the air gap beside the hard spot under the stringer that would allow the hull to flex, and that would be bad. Adding small foam blocks (or whatever else you want to use to raise the stringers off the hull slightly) under the stringers just gives you a gap into which you can pipe PB to form that solid contact you want between stringer and hull down the whole length.

Again, this is my interpretation, and I am new to all this.

 

[‘73BeeCraft]

Floor is completely out. Stringers still in place. For now. This is what it looks like. Idk what’s going on the the center stringer

 

[jbcurt00]

Think of bedding stringers like adding a footer.

Plywood on edge hard against the hull causes a point load. Adding PB fillets along side it doesnt really grab the plywood nor protect the hull.

Elevating the stringer and put foam under eliminates the hard spot. Thats 1 way, but the PB fillet is only along and grabbing the sides of the stringer.

After numerous discussions/posts, over a period of years, many @ iboats forum adopted a different (IMO a better) method.

Elevate the stringer 1/4in off the hull, by whatever means, every so often. IE an inch long strip of 1/4in foam every foot.

Fill the gaps between the 1in long strips w PB and a PB fillet along both sides of the stringer. Once cured, pull the foam and infill those small gaps w PB & PB fillet.

Using that method, you now have a 'footer' of PB thats wider then a piece of plywood stringer on edge. A wider foot made of PB that fully encases the bottom edge of the plywood is significantly less likely to allow a point load/hard spot if the stringer flexes and the hull doesnt, or vice versa.... ya know like wearing snowshoes to traverse snow is better then a pair of snow boots......

 

[GSPLures]

^^^what I was saying explained way better. Only difference between what he said and what I did on mine was i used tile spacers to elevate the stringer. only because that was what I had on hand, but since they get removed what you use makes no difference you can use wood shims to magic to make it elevate whatever works for you

 

[GSPLures]

Floor is completely out. Stringers still in place. For now. This is what it looks like. Idk what’s going on the the center stringer

Make sure to take lots of measurements and pictures for reference for when you put them back in. I measured the height of mine every 6" you don't have to match the contour perfectly that is what the PB bedding is for but the closer the better. Also make sure you grind out far enough for the tabbing on the hull and clean with more acetone than you think you should be using.

Did you remove any foam? Just asking because you didn't mention if you had. Normally boats under 20' have flotation foam and I believe I see some in the picture. If you did not that is a good indicator that the boat has been redone before.

 

[‘73BeeCraft]

Make sure to take lots of measurements and pictures for reference for when you put them back in. I measured the height of mine every 6" you don't have to match the contour perfectly that is what the PB bedding is for but the closer the better. Also make sure you grind out far enough for the tabbing on the hull and clean with more acetone than you think you should be using.

Did you remove any foam? Just asking because you didn't mention if you had. Normally boats under 20' have flotation foam and I believe I see some in the picture. If you did not that is a good indicator that the boat has been redone before.

No the was blocks of foam running down the center between the stringers. They were just resting in there. Saturated of course.
I think I’ll do 2 part foam once I get there.

 

[‘73BeeCraft]

No the was blocks of foam running down the center between the stringers. They were just resting in there. Saturated of course.
I think I’ll do 2 part foam once I get there.

I’ve got my measurements. Sketched to lay out. These stringer weren’t bedded really.

 

[GSPLures]

I was just wondering the right of the stringers looked like there was some pour in stuck to the hull. Manufacturers rushed a lot of boats and they were not built the greatest. When I built my stringers I extended the 2 bulkheads that were just in the center all the way to the sides and added some deck supports under where the seats are located. Adding more does not hurt but make sure to at least replace what was there.

 

[‘73BeeCraft]

I was just wondering the right of the stringers looked like there was some pour in stuck to the hull. Manufacturers rushed a lot of boats and they were not built the greatest. When I built my stringers I extended the 2 bulkheads that were just in the center all the way to the sides and added some deck supports under where the seats are located. Adding more does not hurt but make sure to at least replace what was there.

Yeah I thought about that too, extending the deck supports.

 

[tank1949]

So when I bought the boat Saturday I was far more less informed than I am today. Lots of YouTube over the weekend. I’m just trying to figure out how to proceed knowing what I know now with the guidance of those that knew all along.

Go to your bank after reviewing a bunch of videos, AGAIN! You are potentially going to work your butt off. I replaced two transoms because of rot. It aint fun!

 

[‘73BeeCraft]

Do I use laminating or finishing resin?

 

[todhunter]

Do I use laminating or finishing resin?

Buy laminating resin and a separate container of finishing wax. Only add the wax to the last layup, or when you know you need to sand. You can lightly sand unwaxed layups to knock down hairs and sharp edges, but it clogs up the paper very fast.

 

[‘73BeeCraft]

Buy laminating resin and a separate container of finishing wax. Only add the wax to the last layup, or when you know you need to sand. You can lightly sand unwaxed layups to knock down hairs and sharp edges, but it clogs up the paper very fast.

Ok great, thx.