‘73 Bee Craft

[‘73BeeCraft]

If you pull the cap you have to support the hull with a cradle before removing floor and stringers. The hull will shift causing big problems down the road. The boats original construction was poly. You will have some that will push for epoxy and some that push poly. At the end of the day yes epoxy is superior but poly is just fine unless you plan on flipping it to use as a bomb shelter. It is your boat so it comes down to what you are willing to spend and more comfortable working with. Each has a different lay up schedule so choosing that determines what glass you will use. I used poly on mine and so far it is a tank.

I would like to just pull up the back part of the cap with the splash well. Leaving rest of the cap for support. Now it’s carpeted on the interior gunnel area. How do I clean that up? Grinding?

 

[‘73BeeCraft]

Or a stripper wheel?

 

[GSPLures]

I would like to just pull up the back part of the cap with the splash well. Leaving rest of the cap for support. Now it’s carpeted on the interior gunnel area. How do I clean that up? Grinding?

If you are talking about the glue residue left from the carpet. I soaked it in goof off then used a angle grinder with a cup wheel. It also comes in handy for removing foam. It makes a huge mess with foam so proper clothing safety goggles *not glasses!* and a respirator is a must. Which you will need to grind down to good glass also after you remove all the old wood. For that I also used my angle grinder some people prefer a flap disc, I just used a resin backed disc because the flap disc clogged way to fast for me. Grinding is horrible but there is no getting around it.

 

[‘73BeeCraft]

If you are talking about the glue residue left from the carpet. I soaked it in goof off then used a angle grinder with a cup wheel. It also comes in handy for removing foam. It makes a huge mess with foam so proper clothing safety goggles *not glasses!* and a respirator is a must. Which you will need to grind down to good glass also after you remove all the old wood. For that I also used my angle grinder some people prefer a flap disc, I just used a resin backed disc because the flap disc clogged way to fast for me. Grinding is horrible but there is no getting around it.

1) thank you for your assistance.
2) what do you thing of this loctite marine PL.

 

[‘73BeeCraft]

1) thank you for your assistance.
2) what do you thing of this loctite marine PL.

1) thank you for your assistance.
2) what do you thing of this loctite marine PL.

So I can just goo

 

[‘73BeeCraft]

So I can just goo

Goof it off. And then I think I just want to roll some gel coat on the inside instead of carpet. Is that a thing? Any prep other than cleaning up the hull?

 

[GSPLures]

No problem. You can gel coat it. Make sure everything is cleaned then make sure you grind to good glass. If it is all solid you need to still sand it really good then clean with lots of acetone. I bought some of the PL it has its uses but for structural things like gluing the transom in and bedding stringers I used thickened poly which is called peanut butter on the forums. Some use PL for gluing the structure and it works out great but you still have to make a filet with peanut butter to get the glass to lay proper in the corners so my thought process was bed and filet with the poly all at once. PL also has a long dry time which is convenient until you want to move on to the next step

 

[jbcurt00]

FYI, PL premium could take a week to off gas and fully cure, maybe longer depending on how thick its applied. Fillets would be best done quite thick/deep, so I'd guess longer..

No PB fillets or fiberglass & Polyester resin should be applied until it does. Thats why most dont use PL for anything that gets covered w glass.

 

[todhunter]

If you gelcoat the hull instead of carpet, you still will want to sand/grind the surface for good mechanical bonding of the gelcoat. Since you're already going to be sanding/grinding, I'd just sand/grind the carpet old glue.

I considered using PL in my build but ultimately decided against it. The long cure time, and the fact that it's just one more thing you've got to buy made me not use it. I've used peanut butter (PB / thickened polyester resin) for everything, and don't regret it. You can control how fast it cures by how much catalyst you add, and most of the time it's ready for the next step in 2-3 hours.

I used an angle grinder and 40 grit flap discs to grind my hull. I went through about 25 discs on my project, but I was buying 10-packs of discs on Amazon for ~$15/pack, so I wasn't just burning up money.

 

[jbcurt00]

Yep ^^^ all that

 

[‘73BeeCraft]

Yep ^^^ all that

 

[‘73BeeCraft]

Did some exploration. This is what I’ve found. The “wood” on the bit came from a stringer you see I’ve drilled out.
Supporting the hill. It’s currently on the trailer. How do I go about stabilizing it. Can I do one stringer at a time to minute disruption in the hill.

 

[todhunter]

Yep, the black mud means it's totally gone.

If your trailer has bunks instead of rollers, that may support the hull enough. But, the smart thing to do would be to build some additional support onto the trailer to hold the sides of the hull.

I had talked to some guys that restored the same model boat as I'm working on and they said for my boat, it was robust enough to not need a cradle while sitting on the trailer, so I didn't build one. My boat has 5 stringers, and because I didn't build a cradle, I replaced 2 stringers first (every other one), then after those were in I tore out the last 3 and replaced them. My hull has splayed open ~1/2" at the worst since pulling the cap. I used ratchet straps to pull the hull back into shape while bedding the stringers and bulkheads, and I plan to do the same when attaching the deck. If it's still a little splayed out, I think we'll be able to muscle it back into shape when we put the cap back on.

 

[‘73BeeCraft]

Did some exploration. This is what I’ve found. The “wood” on the bit came from a stringer you see I’ve drilled out.
Supporting the hill. It’s currently on the trailer. How do I go about stabilizing it. Can I do one stringer at a time to minute disruption in the hill.

Yep, the black mud means it's totally gone.

If your trailer has bunks instead of rollers, that may support the hull enough. But, the smart thing to do would be to build some additional support onto the trailer to hold the sides of the hull.

I had talked to some guys that restored the same model boat as I'm working on and they said for my boat, it was robust enough to not need a cradle while sitting on the trailer, so I didn't build one. My boat has 5 stringers, and because I didn't build a cradle, I replaced 2 stringers first (every other one), then after those were in I tore out the last 3 and replaced them. My hull has splayed open ~1/2" at the worst since pulling the cap. I used ratchet straps to pull the hull back into shape while bedding the stringers and bulkheads, and I plan to do the same when attaching the deck. If it's still a little splayed out, I think we'll be able to muscle it back into shape when we put the cap back on.

Yes it has a cradle. I was hoping not to pull the cap. But I may have to pull it anyways.

 

[GSPLures]

You are definitely on your way keep up the good work. Take lots of pictures and measurements of everything at every angle.

 

[‘73BeeCraft]

I will. I’m trying to get the motor to run. I’ve built tables, remodeled bathrooms and landscaped yards. I’ve always been able to avoid small engine repair. Until now.
I have good compression 92-94.
I have good spark. I got a new tank and mixed up a gallon with 50:1. Nothing. I just it up with starter fluid then it works for about 5 seconds.

 

[GSPLures]

I will. I’m trying to get the motor to run. I’ve built tables, remodeled bathrooms and landscaped yards. I’ve always been able to avoid small engine repair. Until now.
I have good compression 92-94.
I have good spark. I got a new tank and mixed up a gallon with 50:1. Nothing. I just it up with starter fluid then it works for about 5 seconds.

Sounds like a gummed up carb. Mix some seafoam then prime the motor and let sit for a day or 2 if it is not bad it should clear it up if not may need to get the carb rebuilt. Make sure you check clean and replace any fuel filters and check for any cracked or leaking hoses

 

[jbcurt00]

....I’ve always been able to avoid small engine repair. Until now.
I have good compression 92-94.
I have good spark. I got a new tank and mixed up a gallon with 50:1. Nothing. I just it up with starter fluid then it works for about 5 seconds.

Start a topic in the motor sub forums. Get lots of help there.

Unless starter fluid is labeled for 2cycle engines, you risk washing the oil off the rotating assemblies lubed by 2cycle design/operations

The resto forum is more geared toward boat hull repairs, less so motors & motor work.

 

[mickyryan]

well couple things , looks like you gonna need a new tank since you seemed to cut across it , if i am wrong ignore me , other thing , i would remove cap and while you do the stringers cut out bedding in cap and replace that too if needed, good luck imma ride along if ya dont mind , looks like a fun project , glad you doing it right and not trusting that crap the other guy did.

 

[‘73BeeCraft]

Start a topic in the motor sub forums. Get lots of help there.

Unless starter fluid is labeled for 2cycle engines, you risk washing the oil off the rotating assemblies lubed by 2cycle design/operations

The resto forum is more geared toward boat hull repairs, less so motors & motor work.

Ok. I’ll check it out.

well couple things , looks like you gonna need a new tank since you seemed to cut across it , if i am wrong ignore me , other thing , i would remove cap and while you do the stringers cut out bedding in cap and replace that too if needed, good luck imma ride along if ya dont mind , looks like a fun project , glad you doing it right and not trusting that crap the other guy did.

New tank?