Search results

My boat sits too high on the trailer. I have already lowered it 1-1/2 using the provided holes for the crossbar. It has helped a little with loading and unloading, however, it still sits about 8 inches above the fenders at the chine. I can get another 1-1/2 if i move the mounts down to the next...

After 3 days of rain, today was dry and a high temp of 45. Got the boat off the trailer more or less. There is a slight amount of weight on the rollers, but it ain't much. I can turn the roller by hand with very little effort. I have read that Sea Ray did not use the wood engine stringers as a...

Hmm. In the back of my mind i had the idea that i could get a sheet of foam insulation. Cut it to fit the outside of the transom. Get the interior up to around 65, then start putting it back together. The problem with that is, as soon as i put the wood on the transom, the outside starts cooling...

I have about 1000 more pics than I have posted, both before and after.

I just got a 6-foot level yesterday. Before i fiberglass anything, the hull will be flat. From what i read, epoxy is the best to use and most expensive. I don't need the best, and i don't really like working with epoxy. The boat was built with polyester. Least expensive and has not failed yet...

Yeah. I measured everything from deck height down and from center out before anything was removed.

I cannot put this back together until next spring, so the plan is to leave the engine stringers in until then, as long as the hull remains flat, and it is so far. As long as i leave the engine stringers in im pretty sure all is good for now. Temps are down in the 40s as a high. No fiberglassing...

This little sander is the bomb for sanding off the bilge paint. Kind of hard to tell, but i did get about 1/4 of the sanding done. I really want to take the two engine stringers out but i don't know how much they are actually supporting the hull. As it is right now it is sitting on a roller...

It's far to lumpy and bumpy for a scraper to be useful. A heat gun and a wire brush might get it. I don't know if i would trust putting fiberglass over epoxy paint.

So far i have not minded doing this job at all. Demolition wasn't bad, and i think rebuilding will be fun. The two things i do hate so far is sanding epoxy bilge paint. That stuff is thick and solid. The only way i seem to be able to get through it using a belt sander with 36 grit belt. Im...

Here is a question i can't find a definitive answer to about stringers. What is the best height to space them off the hull to not create a hard spot? I read that 1/8 in to 1/4 in is good. It seems to me that if the stringer is bedded in with PB and a generous fillet seal, 1/8 in would be good.

Ohya. I have watched the majority of his vids, actually. Odd but on YT there are a ton of outboard transoms done but not many inboard ones. Frisco Boater has a good series though. I tried but just not my thing + i seem to be a moron trying to video.

Here are a few more interesting things i have found while tearing this boat apart. Tabing the transom was pretty thin and porous. The only place that i would call a stringer is the engine mounts. Very sparse bedding. Not complaining. Just posting for future info

Thanks for the layup info!

I was leaning in that direction but wanted to ask. Thanks! Still have some work to do on the transom, but i think ill spend today cleaning up some of the hull. So far, sanding is by far the worst part of this job and im doing more than just the hull. Also redoing the swim deck. Between the skin...

Next question. On the lower half of the transom skin you can see where it turns a different color. Tapping on it, it sounds solid. I can't really dig into it with a sharp edge. I can sand it away but i need to get into it maybe .050. Maybe resin starved? Grind it away? Has anyone seen this...

I guess im not explaining very well, but you did answer my question. I'll build it back with 1708. Thanks!

No. Im not trying to keep that at all. That pic was to show what was. When i cut them out they will pretty much be down to what the arrow is pointing at.

Sorry, it might be long but details matter. When my boat was built, the bilge structure was done with a chopper gun outside of the hull, using no fabric at all and i assume poly resin. No wood parts had rounded corners and the fiberglass was not in full contact with the wood as can be seen in...

At work on all aircraft composite repairs, When replacing plies, we always start small and work up in size, using a 1/2-inch overlap, with the final ply having a 1-inch overlap and usually vacuum bag it all down. When watching videos, some people start with the large ply working to the smallest...