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I would think red locktite would substitute. Blue would also probably work and would be easier to take apart again, if you think that is a possibility.

The inner cover bolts were epoxied into the block at the factory. They will be hard to remove. Since they are a precision fit, you do not want to break any and need to redrill and tap them. Maybe try a torch to burn the epoxy to get the bolts loose? Impact driver?

Well, T-111 is supposed to look like vertical T&G boards. Caulking the seams ruins that. Even batten board siding would look better than caulked T-111, IMO.

Gee, doesn't T-111 have half-lap joints? No caulking should be needed on those.

I have never tried these, but they are stainless steel which is essential. Garelick is a good name as well. https://www.wholesalemarine.com/garelick-stainless-steel-toggle-bolt-anchors-6pk/?msclkid=bbb017b1ea1c118017a07d694a103d20

The inner water jacket cover is another place water can leak into the cylinders. Look for corrosion holes in the inner water jacket cover, in the nooks and crannies. The inner water jacket cover can also look fine and still leak.

Make sure the shift slide where the shift cable attaches is in the center of the slide's travel, when in neutral. Make sure the splines on the upper and lower shift rod mate properly.

Gee, my boat is 52 years old and has been left out in the weather all summer and parts of the winter. I had to replace the deck and foam once, but it is still good.

I thought he meant the exhaust baffle, which is under the exhaust cover in Jimmbo's picture.

You might price a new one, if they are available. A machine shop might be able to flatten it as well.

CCW is the correct direction. The gearcase should click into and lock in neutral. I use a crescent wrench to turn it gently CCW into neutral.

Sometimes the thermostat seals are installed under the cylinder heads. The heads would need to be removed to replace them. The 'stats, springs and orings are obviously on the outside of the cylinder heads.

I think the harness needs two yellow/red wired with M and F connectors. These wires go to the remote control for the neutral lock out.

T-111 in my experience will suck up oil-based stain real well and last a decade or more. I would use some good oil based stain, like Cabot or Thompsons, if you can get it here in NJ. The modified oil base stuff from Cabot is nearly as good as the full oil, and real easy to clean up.

OK, it looks like a 90* 2 stroke motor. On those the spring that holds the thermostats acts like a poppit valve. When the water pressure rises, it pushes the thermostats off their seats allowing water to bypass them. Replace the thermostats (avail on Amazon) and see if the springs look good...

Gee, how did you test the condenser? I guess I am surprised that you have a condenser since it's main function is to absorb the electrical arc that occurs when the points open, and feedback the stored energy to the coil, helping (immensely) with generating spark. Since your points apparently...

I had a 1988 SeaRay Sorrento. I found the build quality to be inconsistent across the boat. Some parts were made well other parts were made poorly. SeaRay had a quality reputation in 1988, but my boat did not match that reputation IMO. For example, the plywood deck was glassed with a chop...

Well, the boat is back from the welder. He did a fabulous job. He needed to repair the bow of the starboard pontoon, and it looks real good. He also worked on the port pontoon, so they should look the same. He welded the lifting strake, which I did not know needed it. He fixed the crushed...

Gee, I would think the neoprene tip would be necessary to make a good seal against the brass seat. My original '77 Merc 1500 inlet needles were nylon and the seats were brass with rubber inserts to make a seal. The replacements always were ss with neoprene tips and the seats were solid brass...

The idle stop screw only changes the idle RPM, by changing the idle timing. It should not change relationship between the throttle and the carbs. The carbs should always start to open when the timing is 6*ATDC.