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It's in the mid 90's here in Savannah, GA. Can't control that. Thanks for the info. Again, first time doing fiberglass repair, but I can't really understand how the first patchwork didn't work. I sanded it pretty well, used 3 layers of progressively larger mat and when finished, I painted...

I have a 2000 Sailfish 198 DC. A couple of years ago, I had a roller fall apart and damage the hull in the bow area. I replaced the roller and patched the "soft spot" or dent that it left in the boat with fiberglass mat and resin. A couple of weeks ago, while sitting on a beach surrounded by...

Fantastic! That's what I was hoping to hear! I would have helped him out no matter what it would take, but I'm glad It won't be the BEAST of a job that I was expecting. Wish I could find a video, but typing in the year model doesn't seem to help narrow things down.

Where might I find a website or paint supplier that can provide color matching paint for my boat? I'm just doing some minor repairs of chips/dings/scratches both above ad below water line. It's a white boat, but I know there are approximately a zillion shades of white out there. Thanks in...

So, my son has an overheating problem on his 2001 Johnson 115. Impeller replaced already, but still has overheating alarm going off. I'm guessing thermostats and or pressure relief valves (Poppets). Before I volunteer to help, I'm wondering if this model has the nightmare thermostat housing...

next to the carb is a choke solenoid. I'd get a momentary switch (only works when pressed in) and wire it to the battery and the solenoid. I'd do the same with the automatic choke if you want to use that, or just remove it. Also, there's the whole battery charging system. There should be a...

No idea what you're asking. You mention a funny noise, then describe how perfectly it runs. I have no idea what an inverter style 4 stroke generator sounds like. You say it has a funny noise, but then describe how quiet it is. I'm very confused.

If it's the shifting rod, when you shift from forward/neutral/reverse, the lower unit will probably move up/down. I'm sure that's what it is.

If it runs better when you take the cowling off then it can only be because that allows more air flow. That means it's running too lean at idle.

Okay, I'll give you a much simpler way to diagnose the problem before you start replacing parts that may/may not be bad. The next time you try to start the motor and it won't turn over, turn and hold the key and have someone tap the starter lightly with a hammer! If the starter works, you have...

My middle son's father-in-law is a Yamaha Master Technician and his family has owned and operated a marina and boat repair shop for 3 generations! I did not know that. Today, my son described the problem to him. After bombarding my son with questions, he asked about fuel/water separator and...

Idle timing should be somewhere between 4 and 8 degrees BTDC (Before Top Dead Center), with full advance at about 3,000 RPM's of about 36 degrees. First, turn the motor to Top Dead Center and make sure the rotor is pointing exactly at the #1 plug wire inside the distributor. If not, you may...

Those recoil starters are pretty standard and used for years and years on lots of different HP motors. I had a '76 25 HP Evinrude that had one of the 3 mounting holes all stripped out. Eventually the stress on the other 2 would cause one of the "legs" to break. I bet I replaced that thing 3...

It's actually to prevent going into full throttle in reverse. I had a 1976 25HP Evinrude that was the same way. Pretty cool system. Pretty sure if you shift into reverse, you won't be able to advance the throttle all the way. In a small john boat with a tiller handle motor, it keeps you from...

Yes.

If timing marks don't line up with actual piston position, you need to remove the flywheel and you'll probably find a broken key where the flywheel fits onto the crankshaft. The key will be a half-moon shaped piece that fits into slots on crankshaft and into flywheel. I'd bet that's your problem.

You've got a ground issue. I had a boat that would literally run in the yard, but not in the water. Had a 1976 55HP Evinrude on it. One day after struggling to crank it in the water at the boat ramp, I pulled it just out of the water, cranked it up and had my wife back me up into the water...

No idea, but I know how to measure it. From "nut to nut". You're actually measuring the outer covering of the cable. You measure from the steering wheel over to the side of the boat, then back to the transom, then over to where it bolts to the motor.

I have 2 batteries. The batteries are capable of spinning the motor all day long. They basically do. It's not a battery problem. Thanks though.

I've used aftermarket tachometers before with mixed results. I'd recommend buying a mid-priced one. Make sure it is intended for 2-stroke if that's what you have and works for the number of cylinders you have - I'm guessing 3. I prefer a digital and lighted. Digital is much easier to see.