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i have become fond of the spark gap tester for this so you can see how strong the spark is vs just there. ten or so years back went through an older evinrude outboard. Last thing I replaced was the coils - this was after fuel pump, carb rebuild, points and condensers... I had spark showing but...

I did mine by the lag screws as generally they are easier to get to in the boat. You need to do an alignment regardless of marking the bolts even with same engine mounts etc I wouldn't trust is goes back in aligned...

might be worth running of a remote tank to see if it makes the problem go away

yeah runs great is a joke.. 3.0s are no the smoothest idling engine but if it has good compression and makes decent oil pressure on a test stand likely needs a tune up and carb rebuild

yes also the volvo penta 3.0 is the same GM long block. Best bet find a beat up boat and jank the driveline out

So you kept your old ratio drives? Typically when you go up in power you will need more pitch. I did a 4.3 to 5.0 repower kept the 1.81 4.3 ratio drive and went up 2" in pitch from what was on there. Get through your break in and see what you get at WOT before doing anything. Make sure your...

Get yourself an ultrasonic cleaner from harbor freight or similar. My carb rebuilding batting average went way up when I started using it. On my buddy’s Holley off his Vp I used simple green so it wouldn’t strip the paint off the carb. I was utterly amazed how much chit was in the simple green...

Just pressure test the cooling system.

I missed that 100% if it’s just a head gasket due to overheat worst case you need the head resurfaced and valve job

they were really good in my experience, although I bought a new extended base vs rebuilt. They gave me partial core for the old cracked block 4.3 and also worked with me to tweak their 'Silver' engine package to get it how I wanted it. They swapped out the delco est for a TBV set up so I could...

If it is a vortec long block 96 and newer it is identical to what you have. Good time to drop in a 5.7 which is externally identical. May have to reject the carb or step up to a 4 bbl edelBrock 1409. I installed a partial engine from these guys in 2016 has worked excellent for over ten years...

if you haven’t checked out MichIvan motorz worth a look https://michiganmotorz.com/5-7l-vortec-marine-engine-1996-2020/

borescope won’t show if crack is through to the crankcase so you are right to find another engine

yes that may be true as well, the early inlines (not sure the years) used a shorter input shaft. Unless you have all of it together in front of you or have done the swap expect some mixing and matching

bellhousing likely will fit but coupler will not your old one bolts to crank ub via studs where flywheel attaches. Hub on newer engines (post 1990). So if you target getting a pre 1990 3.0 with 2 pc rear main seal the coupler will fit

the the flywheel size and coupler mounting changed in 1990 when the 3.0 went to a one piece rear seal. so as long as you have a complete bobtail it will work with one hitch- the rear motor mount spacing changed when the R.MR, Alpha one was introduced in 1982 ish. So you would need the later...

check the reviews on rapido seems to be hit or miss there

100% unless its a rotten transom boat. My buddy just sold his 02 glastron GX185, Fing swim ladder was screwed into transom at water line... predictable results. He sold the whole boat for $1500 to a guy who needed a long block

I bought a partial engine from Michigan motorz in 2016. New base engine, intake, carb, ignition , wiring harness and fuel pump. Just added exhaust and my accessories from old engine. No guess work and has been trouble free for a decade plus now. Sometimes spending more up front is better. And...

The 090M 4.3 (M for metric) were used in early 2000s, yes unexplainable mix of metric threads on side motor mounts , starter bolts, and flywheel cover fasteners, SAE for the rest