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these should work just hook up the 2 yellows (AC) from the stator ground the negative pin and the B+ to solenoid main post with the B+ from the battery ...and you will have spares ! $20/8...

reinstall new nylon washers !! and having had the same kind of fun to take out a stripped HEX head bolt on my 75hp I now wrap those oil screws with a a few layers of yellow teflon.

yes 9622a inside and out. :) even the " break in instruction" tag

this 9.5 beauty still runs perfectly to ! from the mid 60s paid $50 cdn but had to help the rings wake up !

I haven't done this in a while but basically.....you need to realign the side gear meshing between throttle (tiller) and vertical shaft so that the vertical shaft rotation will ensure a full corresponding travel of the magneto (with the clip reinstalled) it is tricky but patience brings...

disconnect clip #33 from the vertical post this allow mag to rotate fully https://www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1975&hp=6&model=6R75R&manufacturer=Johnson&section=MAGNETO

if you disconnect the vertical post and the mag cam can travel..rotate ok to aling cam mark and follower then just adjust the meshing of gears . the engine came with the correct parts no need to buy new parts.... the are great kickers

the cam under the mag plate has a mark (bar) it must lineup with the cam follower on the carb when the throttle is at START adjust the side throttle meshing gears on the handle to have the mag plate rotate properly so the cam can be positioned properly to line up the mark and cam follower

cycle and refill a few times to purge any air .......unlikely you had 2 problems...seals and motor at the same time.

Powering the FP from the regulator output with a few blocking diodes to prevent feedback B+ from the solenoid should do it & kill the FP if rotations of the FW stops. The initial "FP power up" to fill carbs could be activated with a "fuel up" shot of B+ from a "normally open" push...

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https://watercraftmanuals.com/outboard/johnson/johnson-5005463.htm easy downloads if anything like the johnson manual for oldies like cd fd qd etc... their manuals are very good

first it held pressure so next is a vacum test...... but i would not rush a seal job if you recheck gear oil for water ingress ... keep the oil and put back in the GC if not contaminated...

properly fused hopefully with spares in the boat

ok not a FICHT .. carbed engine post mdl # !!

how does the oil fuel mix bathed the crankcase if direct injected for combustion

Does the FICHT system provive for oiling of innards I am thinking ETEC with separate oiling no need for fuel oil mix in ETECs

check amazon #OB 12vdc volt /reg cheap just mount up somewhere

check yellows for AC volts from stator if ok .....bad rectifier or connection back to the battery B+ check all wires for corrosion check B+ on RED out of rectifier to see it rises !! as it should like the battery test above reconfirm engine mdl# !!!

looks like emulsified gear oil to me ..pressure test the gc pull prop check for birdnest